Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The-MathMog

  1. First thing that comes to my mind, is that one of the peaks in the background, looks like a quite suitable spot to build an observatory
  2. What Coma Corrector do you use? That might give insight in how much spacing the CC needs. Also what spacing do you have right now? That right there makes me think the CC is way too close to the camera, but it's not a topic I am very experienced in.
  3. Ha seems to be the recurring solution to this, and something I have indeed considered. But by Nikon D5200, is indeed NOT modded, so you do say that it won't produce anything worthwhile without having that done first? Would need to find a place that does that around here then, as I am not very confident that I could do it myself (probably could, but would rather not risk it). That is a very nice image you've shot there, and just shows that you can really produce SOMETHING on those "forever dusk" nights! I'll just need to expand my knowledge of what open and globular clusters that are i
  4. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    72 x 30 second subs 36 Min Total Exposure Iso 6400 Skywatcher 150PDS Nikon D5200 (Unmodded) Celestron Advanced VX Mount
  5. Weather, work and other factors has made it very hard for me to get as much out imaging, as I would've liked. Like 3 times since August. Weather has just been unforgiving, and quite a few times now, the clear windless nights have pretty much always hit on night where the moon has a huge influence. 80%+ illumination. One of these nights I tried imaging bodes nebula, and the moon set like an hour before sunrise. And you can see a huge difference between the images just before, and just after the moon-set. The ones before barely showing any detail. So, to cut to the chase, do you guys have any
  6. How do you polar-align? Is balance alright? And is it only in certain parts of the sky? I wonder if certain polar-alignment routines is affected by the change from daylight-savings time to normal time. Like I do "All-Star-Polar-Align" on my AVX, which takes the alignment stars into accounting, and if it think the time is one hour more/less than it actually is, would this produce an error?
  7. Looks like "CCD Inspector". It is quite expensive, but you can use a 30-day trial.
  8. Well feel free to have a look at it Here is the how the four corners of one of the raws look. Lower right corner looks like more regular coma, while the other ones look a bit different, while upper left doesn't have much at all. It could be a lot worse, but it is still annoying to have to crop the image to get it out of the frame
  9. Definitely spend much time of processing too, as doing pretty much any stretching would leave a horrible mess. As long as you don't zoom in too much the horrendous noise-floor is hidden enough. And then knowing that I won't be able to add to it for probably several more weeks.. Lovely.. Cropped the image a bit too, as there are some weird star shapes. Can't quite figure out if it is still a small amount of coma, or some other optical aberration caused by tilt, mirror pinch or something else entirely.
  10. This is an image created from data I took almost a month ago. I didn't really intend to do anything with the data, as I was just testing the mount and different exposure lengths contra ISO settings. But a very long period of clouds, (I've literally not been out with the scope for a month) made me go back through some old files to see if there was anything I could fiddle with to fill the time. I found these and merged them together. 3 subs with a total integration time of 16 minutes (what an astounding amount of data!). One sub of 120 secs with ISO 6400. One sub of 360 secs ISO 1600 and one
  11. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    The Cocoon Nebula (IC 5146) 3 Subs (2 Min, 6 Min, 8 Min) Iso 6400 and 1600 16 Minute Integration Time Skywatcher 150pds Celestron Advanced VX Mount Nikon d5200 Explore Scientific Coma Corrector Baader Neodymium Filter
  12. When I just got my first telescope back in December, the Triangulum galaxy was one of the first objects I was trying to find. But with my lack of knowledge of the sky, and the brightness of certain objects, I never succeeded, and before long it wasn't in the sky at night anyway. I had a clear night a few days ago, and my initial target (Bode's Galaxy) went behind a tree, and some clouds obscured the western sky. Checked stellarium to see what else would be of interest to capture, and coincidentally M33 had just risen above the roof of my house. Wasn't sure well it would show up in images
  13. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    Skywatcher 150P-DS Celestron AVX Mount Nikon D5200 2 Minute Exposures 55 Subs 1 Hour 50 Minutes Integration Time ISO 3200 Manually Stacked and Processed in Photoshop CS2 (My relationship with DSS isn't that good)
  14. I got a new telescope a few weeks ago, a Skywatcher 150P-DS, and I've just had it out yesterday, as the danish summer has been absolutely horrendous.. But it's only just now, that the astro-dark nights are returning again anyway. And what better easy target to test it out on, than the Andromeda Galaxy? But there were only like a total of 2-3 cloudless hours yesterday, so I only managed to get 26.5 minutes of 30 second subs, as I was also observing and getting used to the new scope. The focus is a slight bit off, as I've still to make a bahtinov mask that fits this one, and I can see that I
  15. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    Skywatcher 150P-DS Celestron AVX Nikon D5200 Integration Time - 26.5 minutes 53 subs - 30 seconds each Manually Stacked and Processed in Photoshop CS2 Denmark
  16. The one that I use right now is one solid piece, that connects to the T-ring. Like then inserting a 1.25 eye piece. Same with the 2 inch I believe. Haven't had that out in a while.
  17. Thanks again. I've ordered one, together with some other small "quality-of-life" improving equipment, then we'll see how it fairs. Even if it turns out to only be a slight improvement, then I'll still be happy. Together with a new scope that, that'll be something to look forward to! I am looking to buy a Coma Corrector too. Is that something you have experience with? It seems that the Baarder Mark-III MPCC, is a common choice for people, although some also complain about it making the start more "bloated"?
  18. Thank you vern, that might exactly be what I am after! Yes I've been doing that too, and might still do so after I've gotten the adapter. If it lost grip, it would just still swing around, which isn't a too pleasant thought! Might work as a fail-safe at least, though I don't expect the clamp to give away that easily. It states that it also fits celestron telescopes, I don't see where that would fit then though. I guess the Skywatcher has a thread that the celestrons don't have for the 2-inch adapter. Mine is just inserted and secured with screws. Only the 1.25'' is threaded on
  19. Hey guys, the dark nights are soon returning here in Denmark! (The major downside of living at 57 latitude) And I am going to be buy a small upgrade, the Skywatcher 150PDS Newtonian. I am going to use it both visually and for astrophotography, hence this version. I do already have the T-ring for my Nikon and a T-adapter, BUT, I wanna know if there is an adapter that provides a better grip on the t-adapter, that is low-profile and fits the Skywatcher? Something like the Baader click-lock? I've always been scared of the telescope dropping my DSLR, when it hangs in weird positions, and would ra
  20. Sorry if I missed it, but what galaxy is it exactly? Quite a beautiful one with its almost flower-like structure.
  21. Just a note. The mains power supply you posted, says that it delivers 1.5 amps. From the manual, the AVX mount states that it requires 3.5 amps. This could lead to tracking or alignment issues. I've heard about quite a bit of guys, who had issues with their mounts, which turned out to be insufficient power. Also to ensure that the power don't drop below that during cold weather, 5 amp adapters is often recommended.
  22. Depending on how your camera actually handles ISO, I personally would actually increase the ISO quite a bit, and then either decrease the sub length (to allow more subs in a night), or increase the sub length if your mount allows it, to gather more light. I've found with my nikon D5200, that increasing the ISO helps me collect a lot more data, and bringing it out without having to stretch it as much, which also brings the noise level up. As long as you have enough subs to basically neutralise the noise, it should be fine. I mostly do ISO 6400, and then do as many subs as I can. At least 30.
  23. I am looking into getting a coma corrector at some point. It might be after I get a new OTA, as that one will likely have more coma, and that coma isn't the biggest of issues right now. BUT, I've been surfing around, trying to figure out how coma correctors actually work and what other effects they might have, and it has been a bit confusing to me, especially concerning focus. I've read several places that some CC's will either require in-focus or even out-focus, even out-focus in such a case where prime-focus, which wasn't possible before, actually can become possible. I'll quote what I rea
  24. Did you ASPA RIGHT after you did the first one? Not refreshing all the star-aligns first? If so, then it would always miss, if you adjusted the PA. Or by unsync do you mean doing the star-aligns again? Just asking to clear up any confusion for me And how long can your mount keep a star centered during an exposure? Hmm. A few last questions too, before running conclusions. Simple of course, but important nonetheless. Have you tightened the bolt underneath the mount head into the stand properly? Tightening it up a bit after doing the last Az adjustments can help a bit too. It should be tight
  25. Thank you. For these I tried stacking them manually. Doesn't take long, and I feel that I am in a bit more control of the process. At least until I figure out the programs. I've tried using registax, and I've never gotten good results from that. At least not with the moon. A few frames was always misaligned, and couldn't figure out why. Tried several different options, with more or less align points. Different stacking settings etc. Haven't tried out AS2, but will give it a go. I've also downloaded PIPP, which a lot of people seem to prefer for the alignment of frames, but again haven't had th
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.