alacant

Recommendation: upgrade to siril. Here are your before and after images. With the banding routine applied to the whole sequence, it becomes negligible. Yes, you must remove the sd card. To dither, you do not need to guide. HTH

Hi everyone The central cluster bit. UHC filter on gso203: HOO. Not very colourful but at least something to have a go at, especially when aided by an enormous full moon to light the way! Thanks for looking. siril 1.3.0a st 1.9.588

The 18mp sensor is usually quite clean. Anyway, 600d, so are you sure: you are powering the camera with either an in-camera battery or a stable DC supply? you are not using bias and/or dark frames taken In-camera during pre-processing? there is no memory card in the camera? that the screen is folded out? you are dithering at least 10 pixels between frames? sending the pre-processed sequence through banding reduction before registration? stacking using a clipping algorithm? Then cables, hubs, usb sockets, software; anything you can check by substitution... then... etc. etc. Cheers

Hi Warning: the GSO we tested suffered from questionable mirror spacing, pushing the focal plane into a different postal district from the telescope tube. If you believe you're able to hold and balance an imaging camera at the required distance from the tube, go for it. We couldn't🤥 Take a look at the position of the focal plane and you'll begin to see the problem: There is however an excellent alternative.with sensible secondary spacing enabling stable camera conection, especially if you can source one with the proper Quattro focuser.. Apart from needing significantly less time to get something similar to the 72, you'll notice that it is completely apochromatic. The only false colour will be (a tiny amount) from the cc. Cheers

EOS? Absolutely not needed; the opposite. Simply subtract the offset. Yes: https://linuxcb.blogspot.com/2023/09/siril-dslr-processing.html Cheers

Hi Nice shot. I'm struggling with this traget ATM and your image is inspiring. I definitely prefer up close rather than enlarging something wider. One small point; I bet there's loads more information in your data should you wish to extract it, but hey the bubble isolated as you have it works very well. Cheers

Hi everyone Not sure about how best to image this. An image search throws up versions for all tastes and budgets, I made two images. 1. UHC. It works well for the red but leaves other colours lacking. Still IMO considerably better than the €silly duo filters. 2. No filter. Unfortunately not the same telescope but it would be interesting to know preferences and how the experts go about imaging this target. Thanks for looking. 1.gso203, 2. nt150s siril 1.3.0a, st 1.9.558 ~3h bajo ubuntu 22.04.3; indi-EKOS

🤩Nice stars. May I ask if this was taken using a filter? I've a feeling it is best done without a filter. The UHC, as well as relegating the stars to a secondary role, is probably considered cheating. Cheers

Hi everyone Struggling -as always- with the blue bits. I though a UHC would help separate it, but nada. I think this may be better filterless. The red is overwhelming. Still, a chance to have a go with the new fr for the 72ed which solves to 346mm. This is all night in 4 minute frames; no AI anywhere. Thanks for looking and do post if youve had a go at this recently. All processing tips gratefully received. 72ed. cal y apil: siril 1.3.0a. proc: st 1.9.588b ~6h

Hi everyone Not much 130 activity ATM so in an attempt to redress the balance here is the alma in Cassiopeia with a cheepo UHC and -not so cheap- GPU. Gotta love the little pds. Thanks for looking and do post your 130 nebula images if you've had a go recently. 130pds calibración y apilado, siril 1.3.0a procesado st 1.9.588b ~5h

Hi That's what I described... Let me know which bits need clarification. Cheers

mmm... dslr, so don't use dark frames of any type. Subtract the offset only, but not from an in-camera bias. No need for median stacking anywhere. For questions about the Fuji problem, best to ask the developers: https://discuss.pixls.us/c/software/siril/34 Location of log files. On Linux we simp'ly redirect the console output to a file. No idea how other OSs do it. Sorry. https://discuss.pixls.us/t/saving-console-output-to-a-log/29711 Adjust the sensitivity using the smoothing, samples per line, grid tolerance and interpolation method. Or, you guessed it, add the points manually yourself; much quicker. You only need a handful over the background areas anyway. Cheers and HTH

... and watch your imaging tahe a leap forward. Go for a big -at least 10 pixels- dither😉 Well done. If not, post the siril log if you like. Cheers

You've just found one of the limitations of using scripts. Whilst you could alter the script, we find it just as quick to use Siril manually anyway; you're in control, rather than the script. Cheers

Hi It's the Fuji bayer. Siril has an option for fixing it:

Hi Not only starless but also those images where the most of stars have been processed to death. Thank you for giving us the choice. I think the trend toward over processing started with Topaz, (edit: for reference, around the same time as beginning sentences with 'So' became fashionable). AI is now seemingly compulsory on all images. I've seen many excellent shots ruined by AI reprocessing. It's the stars which seem to get falsified the most. Thanks for keeping the stars alive! Cheers

Therefore keep it simple. The filter you need is retained. Only the IR mirror/reflector has been removed. Depending upon the type, in a light polluted sky, the L-pro does a good job of passing what you want whilst eliminating the rubbish. It will help you expose for longer; which is what you need to get those elusive spiral arms. On one occasion, imaging only 5km or so from Alicante, it allowed us to double the exposure time of our non-filtered frames. Siril? We put together a simple processing guide for EOS/Ti models: https://linuxcb.blogspot.com/2023/09/siril-dslr-processing.html Cheers and HTH

Love the starry version. They give it life and context. Cheers

Exactly. The mask will get you only as far as the red halo. It doesn't get much more apochromatic than that. Excellent idea.

Surely we can't possibly comment until we've seen the now customary starless version!

Even so, excellent images. Don't forget that the four element Takumars focus only the green and blue to the same point, leaving red as an unfocused halo. The best method for focusing is by zooming in on a mid brightness white star. Focus to infinitty or where you see the sharpest image, then move away from a tiny amount until the red halo just disappears; a compromise, but one which will give pinpoint true-colour stars. The crescent: Close. Maybe even a little too much: The veil: perhaps needs a little more 'compromise'. Cheers and HTH.

Do you have an m42 thread/adapter/spacer anywhere in the imaging train?

You don't use dark frames. BTW: you may want to check the offset value. Later eos models use 2048 but we have seen a few rogue sensors, IIRC, lower end 24mp versions. Take a single cr2 frame in total darkness with a shutter of 1/4000s or shorter. Now in Siril, convert to fits and load. Right click on the image > Statistics We don't have any 24mp eos' ATM but here is a frame taken as described from a 1200d. the offset-bias value is then self explanatory:

Keep it simple. 2000d so don't use dark or in camera bias frames. This is almost certainly why you're seeing extra noise. Simply remove the offset from the flat frames then stack them. Leave the same offset in place to calibrate the light frames. For the latter, don't forget to specify the master flat frame you just stacked. Here's what it looks like for the flat frames: ... and the light frames:

What calibration frames are you using? On Eos it's possible that noise is being introduced by applying bias and dark frames taken using the camera. We find that offset subtraction only gives much cleaner calibration. Simpler too. Cheers