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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Hi The stack of the frames looks fine, there is nice detail in the wizard and the star field is spectacular, giving structure and interest to the shot. Not a fan of PI, especially with the latest add-ons. It's easy to make it look over processed. Hardware wise, I think the focuser may need aligning with the optical axis of the lens. most 72s we've seen need this and is easy to do with a laser stuffed in the focuser. My advice would be to keep it simple e.g. this is 5 minutes in StarTools. Even then i think I've overdone it! Cheers and HTH
  2. alacant
    Thanks. Yeah. I believe Heq5s are ok because they have the power socket mounted in a rubber block. The eq6 in question has its socket mounted in a block resembling anodised aluminium which has zero resistance. The eq8 gives directly to the metal of the mount.
  3. alacant
    Hi and thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, this site is on a roof terrace. Why do I only get it with SW mounts though? Cheers and thanks again everyone.
  4. alacant
    Ah, OK. Of course. I think you've nailed it. The Bresser 12v socket is surrounded by plastic. Even if the cable does pull on the plug, the negative touches plastic. On the eq(x) mounts it seems that even though the socket is set in rubber, even a slight pull on the plug and the negative touches the surrounding metal. The guy was fitting a torno (lathe I think) and was attempting to explain why you can't just plug it into the wall. Translation to technical English is not my forte. Anyway, FWIW, apparently this is what we have at this site:
  5. alacant
    A few tests with the mounts we have tonight. Cheepo PSU 12v 5a gives tingles with both SW eq8 and eq6 but not with Bresser exos2. Same mains plugs, leads and sockets. The eq8 motor plug alone is fine using a similar 12v 5a (yes, we swapped them around too) It's only when the hub is plugged in do we get the buzz. Does that help us? Cheers Edit: we're in Spain. We have two lives @ around 110v each. No neutral.
  6. alacant
    Thanks Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug. TIA
  7. alacant
    Thanks Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug. TIA
  8. alacant
    Thanks everyone. As the tingle is always there, I think I can rule out static. So, coming back to the car-battery-or-linear-psu advice, can anyone recommend a substitute for a cheap 12v 5A model? @Anthonyexmouth thanks for the specific psu (exactly what I need) but I think the link points to a switching model of 13.8v. So, anyone any recommendations for a 12v 5A linear psu? TIA
  9. alacant
    Hi everyone Well, not exactly a shock, more a surprise 'tingle' when touching the metal part of the mount/telescope/focuser/camera. Happens with most mounts. I have tried two cheap 12v 5A switch power supplies, one with a three pin and the other with a two pin mains lead.with the same result. I'm told I need either a car battery or a linear power supply to lose the leak. I don't want the former so, having a look around, I found this: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004349595403.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.113.6844356e6DaLnO&algo_pvid=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410&algo_exp_id=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410-56&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028856749257"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!EUR!102.1!66.37!!!!!%402100bc5c16787906922808092d0737!12000028856749257!sea!ES!168948195&curPageLogUid=YICs6qqBuMUx Would that be any good? Alternatives you have tested personally? I've no idea about electrics so any help or guidance anyone could give would be most gratefully received. TIA
  10. alacant
    Hi My guess is that with a bin2 stack of those, you'd be hard pressed to notice, especially if the session included a flip. I'd stay stay right where you are. Cheers
  11. alacant
    Hi If it reaches focus like that, then yes. You're done. If not, pull it out bit by bit until it does. Add more extension tubes if necessary, but forget about the 55mm. Cheers
  12. alacant
    No.
  13. alacant
    Any change if you cover the guide telescope? Light pollution? Gain set at 48? Is there noise if covered during the day? Try another cable. Does the camera work with other apps? [...] Cheers
  14. alacant
    Hi Use one of these: https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5aT7x plus 27mm of m48 extension tubes: 18mm back focus + 10mm adapter + 27mm gives you the magic 55mm needed for the flattener. A 12mm and a 15mm pair from the same supplier will get you there. But... Even better, get a set of tubes so you can vary the distance. Take 55mm as a starting point only. Cheers and HTH
  15. alacant
    Sorry. I think that term is local to here. I should not have used it. SBIG is the company which introduced on camera guiding many years ago. That is the same (non ASCOM) method I recommend to begin with and which is explained above. My recommendation stands. Forget ASCOM for now. All you need running on your computer is PHD2. Cheers
  16. alacant
    ASCOM alone will do nothing. You also need the EXOS2-goto driver, the latest version of which is available here. Probably best to stick to your plan A, keep it simple and get the SBIG method working first. Many I know still use this method to guide. Cheers and here's hoping the clouds will part soon.
  17. alacant
    For the method I gave, yes. There is a second method where you can control the mount using a planetarium program. Maybe get this method going first before throwing more software at it?
  18. alacant
    Yes.
  19. alacant
    PHD2 is software for guiding. You'll not be able to see the mount moving whilst using its NSEW commands, but will be able to detect movement of a starfield whilst so doing. You may also be able to hear a faint buzz from the motors too. To move the mount, use your handset. Can't see where you are but sorry about the cloud. However it's only to be expected after you buy a new camera! Cheers
  20. alacant
    Ah, so you now have it connected? All that's left is to read the phd2 manual. If not... The simplest way is to connect the camera via usb to your computer as you have already. Now, connect the camera to the mount using the other cable -the one which is isn't usb- which was also supplied with the camera. Next, with both camera and mount connected: - Open PHD2 and create a new profile using the wizard. - Enter your guide telescope focal length - Choose 'on camera' for the mount selection. - Focus the 120 on a star and... That's it. Be sure to read the phd2 documentation which is a available in the 'Help' menu -and can be downloaded as pdf- and/or go along to an astro club meeting. Guiding is far easier the first time if someone is there to help and will save you hours of frustration. Cheers and HTH
  21. alacant
    Hi The short answer is, no. Further than that, we'd have to guess; we don't know what is connected to what, which cables are in use nor -apart from así- which software is installed. Cheers
  22. alacant
    Hi No. That is the link to download the -open source- software. There are many, but before jumping in, it's probably best to have aims as to what you want to do. The first one I came across on a YT search was the one below, but keep looking and keep reading bearing in mind that there's a lot of rubbish and misleading ap stuff in Internet. My advice would be to go along to an astro club. It's so much easier having someone alongside who knows what they're doing and there's sure to be a mac guy who will help get you started. In an hour, rather than DIY in a year!
  23. alacant
    Hi Dither hits the mount hard and flings it a good way off the lock. DEC in particular struggles to recover. Wondering if you really need all that movement... Reducing the dither may help, as would waiting longer for the dither to settle before beginning the next frame. Otherwise like all mounts, there's only a limited amount software can do and it's a case of tearing apart, cleaning and lubricating followed by meticulous adjustment. Cheers and HTH
  24. alacant
    Hi Add an INDI server and you have a complete imaging system for the Mac; all three run natively. https://indilib.org/get-indi/download-mac.html Or... Perhaps to begin with and as the heq5 has a guide port, keep it simple by connecting the mount directly to the 120 using the ST4 cable and use PHD2 to guide 'on camera'. HTH
  25. alacant
    Thanks everyone. Some useful thoughts. Disclaimer: I've been forced into this. I hate looking at graphs and am fed up with pulling mounts apart because the graph "isn't good enough". But anyway... Here is my analysis of a supposedly misbehaving eq6 mount. Gears only. Hysteresis: Now with PPEC at 122s: We had the dreaded 10s spike on this example which was fixed by moving the driven gear relative to the idler gear a few teeth. That left the 122s PE.. Hesitant conclusion Using PPEC for RA is I feel a good idea. The belt kits I doubt are going to give more, if any, benefit than the algorithm. Oh, and (note to boss): the cost. Cheers and thanks again.
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