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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Any colour is fine. Or card or paper...
  2. alacant
    The Digic firmware introduces noise/artefacts which make processing -especially background- difficult. Link to that, the impossibility of producing temperature matched dark-light frames and, well... Just don't. We speak from bitter experience! Siril download: https://siril.org/download/ Especially this: https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/ Hope That Helps Cheers and HTH
  3. alacant
    ISO 800. Expose for as long as you can before overexposing or stars become distorted. Whichever comes first. 600d, so no dark frames of any type. Instead, calibrate simply by subtracting the offset (2048) from the flat and light frames. Siril makes this part easy. 90% moon, but way over to the east. Take any clear sky you have;) Cheers and HTH.
  4. alacant
    How about m44? One of the last clusters for a while.
  5. alacant
    Hi I don't think eqmod under ascom has autohome, so use the handbox to home it before connecting. Cheers and HTH.
  6. alacant
    Here is the -hopefully provisional- solution... Yes, I've touched the water supply elsewhere in the property, y nada. No LOL please!
  7. alacant
    Good only if you're using a camera designed for astro-photography, flat frames are however recommended obligatory either way; they'll correct the dark spots and vignetting. Cheers
  8. alacant
    ¡Que lástima! Es que en móviles en este foro, no se ve dónde se vive la gente. On this forum on 'phones, you can't see where folk live.
  9. alacant
    Hi Just in case anyone else is adjusting, I wonder if that should perhaps read, '... which you can't get to w/ the motor attached'? Oh dear. really? You mentioned a broken bolt (?). Maybe some parts are on order? Dunno. The backlash adjustment only takes around 20 minutes or so. If you don't want/have the time/etc to adjust/fix yourself, this guy es perfectionista. Cheers
  10. alacant
    Hi everyone I wonder if this example (from the latest batch of eq8-r version 3) holds the record for out-of-the-box backlash? One is out of the box, the other after adjustment. I'll let the graphics speak for themselves!
  11. alacant
    Hi If it's working for you, stay with it. The Digic circuitry introduces artefacts which makes it more difficult to process, especially the background. Link that with the impossibility of producing temperature matched darks to introduce yet more noise and well... If all that's needed is to lose the offset, then yeah... I'm all for keeping it simple. Cheers and HTH.
  12. alacant
    Ah, OK. That may explain why when looking at star fields in particular, the Bessel makes the others -apart from perhaps the yellow 8- seem dull by comparison. Also, based purely on words overheard at the eyepìece, the susceptibility to being sensitive to purple fringing seems to be age dependent. Older observers may well benefit financially, filter-wise! Cheers
  13. alacant
    Hi We hardly ever look through telescopes but reserve that right once a year or so to point our violet fringe special -an ES ar152 f5- toward Sagittarius. We find that if you use a series of filters, one after another, you'll notice any colour they impart. Stick to one (a #8 is good) and after a while, you don't notice. The purest stars we've seen is with a Bessel V. Cheers and HTH
  14. alacant
    .
  15. alacant
    Any type of dark frame on an eos is bad news. I'd be delighted to help you out with more contributions if necessary.
  16. alacant
    Sorry, yes. I should have explained:
  17. alacant
    Hi Nice shot. The galaxies are clearly visible. The 500d doesn't respond well to either dark or in-camera bias frames, the latter being essential to calibrate the flat frames correctly. So... lose the dark and camera bias altogether. Instead, simply subtract the offset. On older Rebels, this is 1024 [1]. You may want to have a look at Siril to do the calibration, the stacking and the processing afterwards. Oh, and just keep adding frames. The more you add, the easier it will be to process. Cheers and HTH [1] A long time since we've seen a T1i so not sure if the 15mp sensor was at the changeover to an offset of 2048. It's just a few moments to try the other value if the first doesn't work.
  18. alacant
    The OP has chosen to use the ASI driver.. PHD2 is however not limited to that as it is also happy to use INDI or ASCOM camera drivers. We do not know if the OP has the latest version Cheers
  19. alacant
    Correct. 1s exposures in daylight will overexpose. Now you're roughly in focus, you'll be able to finely adjust on a star. If you really want to test PHD2 in daylight, take the camera gain to zero at the shortest exposure time. Even then, you may have to stop down the aperture of the guide telescope. But perhaps best simply to wait for stars to appear as there's not much you can do with PHD2 otherwise [1] HTH EDIT: [1] Whilst you're waiting don't forget to build a dark library.:
  20. alacant
    As you can see, PHD2 disconnects. I'd guess because some other app has grabbed the camera. Suggestion: Start again. Make a new profile with only the camera connected and only PHD2 running. Now connect. Post the logs. Cheers
  21. alacant
    Hi I just thought that as a RT user you'd already be familiar with the interface. That's all. But yes. Absolutely agree. Keep it simple. Go with whatever works for you. Cheers
  22. alacant
    No. Never run ASIstudio at the same time as PHD2.
  23. alacant
    Hi If you like the feel and the non-destructive approach of RT, you'll almost certainly like the mask-rather-than-layer approach of DT. Cheers
  24. alacant
    Hi Nice shot and excellent detail. There's the 294 glow artefact which is easy to eliminate using temperature matched dark frames. You could probably still do this with the existing light frames. Oh, and a small nudge to the telecope and you'd have captured m82 as well. I use StarTools. It has tracking which is held in a database. The big advantage of this is that the next process knows exactly what's happened previously and acts accordingly. You can go back and redo whatever you messed up first time at any stage of the process and Its modern SVDecon and star handling modules obviate the need for extra plug-ins. Its fast and uses the GPU to offload the heavy lifting processes. 5 minutes taking mostly default values. Sorry, I'm hopeless on colour! Cheers and HTH
  25. alacant
    Hi Assuming you have an adequate mount and seeing to support 1000mm, here is our list of modifications needed to bring a low end f5 to astrograph standard. None are particularly difficult or expensive and will save you hours of frustration down the line. The original 4 element gpu such as this one where you set the backfocus depending upon FL is by far the best of the affordable ones we tried. Cheers and HTH
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