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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. I'm trying to find out why. I've only the snippets of information posted here. No logs, no link to the indi discussion... So all I can do is guess. As you have a working system, maybe just use that:)
  2. tail -f /var/log/syslog **I've edited that post with more detail HTH
  3. OK. Try the traditional route: Disconnect everything on usb. Pull the plugs. before ls /dev/ttyUSB0 ls: cannot access '/dev/ttyUSB0': No such file or directory Unload the ftdi module and tail the log as you plug in the cable. Use the old method of communicating. e.g.: Sep 17 19:58:22 g50 kernel: [ 588.552277] usb 2-2: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now at tached to ttyUSB0 and after: ls /dev/ttyUSB0 /dev/ttyUSB0 Enter the port in the INDI panel: Disable autoconnect in your EKOS profile and connect only the mount. Anything?
  4. Is ftdi loaded? e.g. on one of our 20.04s: lsmod | grep ftdi_sio ftdi_sio 61440 0 usbserial 53248 1 ftdi_sio
  5. <guess> All your three eqdir cables have the same serial converter which Ubuntu doesn't like? We have a dead posh brand-name cable which works with NINA but not with INDI, whilst these cheepo ones work fine with all our sw eqs. under any os. </guess> But really, I'd lose the cable anyway if you have BT working. Cheers ** could you post a link to the indi forum discussion?
  6. Hi Lovely shots. Perhaps one of the best would be dedicated astro software such as Siril. It will not only remove your glow but also much of the burden of ps/gimp/dss. Oh, and a big +1 for flat frames:) Cheers
  7. Hi I'm sure the developers would be interested to know. Even on a modest i3, there is good throughput. Ubuntu though;) Cheers
  8. All we have to work with is that moving your setup from one place to another causes it to fail. As you will have already tried the suggestions in the thread, I guessed location and GPS. Cheers
  9. Hi everyone Surprised to see this so high at this time of year. A few minutes before the end of astro darkness, we managed 3 frames before EKOS decided to call time on the night shift. Maybe a good one for those nights when you've excellent seeing between clouds. Cheers 700d on gso203, 3 x 120s
  10. Mmm. Take fewer frames perhaps?
  11. Hi everyone Still too hot to think here ATM and with the camera at over 30º, this was a battle between us and the noise, for our side by giving into taking more frames aided and abetted by hot but dry northerlies keeping the haze at bay. Thanks for looking and do post your dslr experiences with this little lot. 700d @ ISO800 ~4 hours
  12. Hi Hands on with a GSO. A few easy but essential jobs for cheap mirror cells. The very minimum: screw the triangular mirror supports so they bear against their support and don't float. Better: also use a generous blob of neutral silicone sealant on the cork on each of the now stationary supports. Even better: use more blobs of silicone on the side of the mirror coinciding with the position of each mirror clip. Icing on the cake: replace the springs with 1.6mm wire versions of the same length and fit extra springs over the -as you've discovered useless- locking screws. The factory fitted GSO springs are a joke. Allow the mirror to settle overnight under gravity on a flat surface. Now you can forget about primary mirror movement and turn your attention to the secondary. Cheers and HTH springs: details here
  13. Many congratulations to the worthy winners and a big thanks to everyone else for entering.
  14. Hi Lose both the hand controller and the mount to camera cable. Keep the usb camera to computer cable. Get the proper cable to connect the mount to the computer. That's it.
  15. Assuming you never change the orientation of the camera with respect to the telescope and no dust settles on the camera. So, in theory, yes. Realistically perhaps best refreshing flat frames regularly.
  16. Good attempt. This is with StarTools 1.8.512 A few ways to make processing easier: lose the dark frames take flat frames dither between frames clean the camera sensor cover the viewfinder use siril to stack stack using a clipping algorithm enter the correct bayer pattern of your camera Cheers and HTH.
  17. May be better to concentrate upon stars which are in focus. Coma correctors act in mysterious ways. Not sure to which telescope you refer. One is an 8.75" f7, the other either a vixen f4 or vixen f4.5. If the shot along your focuser was produced by collimating using a cross hair Cheshire, the offset looks just like our f3.9 and so with a good cc, you should have decent stars edge to edge. If it's around f4-ish. from Telia: myth: You have to square the focuser very accurately I'm not quite sure of even what "square" is supposed to mean - likely it means set perpendicular to the tube, or possibly to the optical axis - or both, always assuming you have made them coincide. There is nothing wrong with doing it, of course, but the secondary is optically flat, and the angle of reflection is not critical. Most secondaries are made to look circular when tilted 45 degrees (to reflect 90 degrees), but if the angle deviates from this by a few degrees, the only consequence is that the secondary will appear slightly elliptic - it won't affect the image.
  18. Hi If you use a Cheshire sight tube correctly -preferably one with cross hairs- it doesn't matter where the focuser aims. You've already had a look at Telia's collimation myths and Seronik's no nonsense guide so you're most of the way there! Cheers
  19. Either an eos450d or an eos700d No. that's the old version. The new version is better. Cheers
  20. It would involve quite a bit more work. The Bresser version is of superior build quality with a rigid, light alloy tube and proper 2" r-p focuser. Don't get too hung up on the theory, If we did, there'd be very few if any amateur images produced with long focal length telescopes north of Bilbao. On the nights when you don't have the seeing, bin or just image with a shorter telescope. Even better, have a go anyway. It's supposed to be fun! Cheers
  21. Hi We had a rc visit before the pandemic, but IIRC... ... sticking with the title of the post, we believe our (several) nt150l outclasses a 150rc, If only for the contrast and clarity of the former. The rc needs quite a bit longer to match it. That maybe because the Newtonian is f8 and the rc f9 but simply comparing the light path obstruction, you're left wondering how the rc gets any useful light at all! Remember also that at f8, the Newtonian needs no corrector, Here are our €200 Newtonian images. Cheers and HTH.
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