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Everything posted by alacant

  1. Similar to AutoDev, but used mainly for combining narrowband data with RGB data. No more jumping through hoops trying to merge Ha with red etc... Details here. Cheers
  2. Good idea. Especially with StarTools' latest NBAccent module. In fact, it maybe an idea to try loading just the red from this into the same.
  3. Astro-photographers dwelling in m33 post it regularly on their forum.
  4. Hi That's what i'd expect when not stacked with a clipping algorithm. A rough hot pixel count shows ~25 dots, corresponding to the number of frames. I'd increase the dither to around 15 pixels and check you really are using a clipping algorithm when stacking, e.g. Linear clip 5-4 works well for our dslrs even with the most stubborn satellite trails. Not sure what app you're using for capture but remember that although the dither is normally set for the guide camera, it must be converted to give the required movement on the imaging camera. Cheers and HTH
  5. Ah, could you post a reference to what it's called English-trade-name wise? We get asked loadsa times, but only know the Spanish types. TIA
  6. Hi Good shot. Nice colours. Don't forget to crop the edges to remove the stacking overlaps before going to Wipe and the subsequent AutoDevs. That should give you even more range and help remove the blue gradient. Cheers
  7. Hi everyone Another one which works with a moon, albeit last quarter. Not as dim as we thought, but maybe we're looking at reports by visual astronomers. Thanks for looking and do post your dslr shots of the same. 700d on gso203 ~4-1/2 hours @ ISO800
  8. Hi We're on aps-c dslrs. It's a 101% yes from us.
  9. Hi We removed the clips completely and instead used neutral silicone sealant to hold the mirror. 6 generous blobs coinciding with the cork on the mirror cell and a little up the sides coinciding with the mirror clip posts is all you need. This has the added advantage of cleaning the spider spikes too plus it helps hold collimation between sessions and at all mount angles. Cheers and HTH ** Important: leave the mirror to settle on a level surface overnight before refitting.
  10. +1 Decide on one or the other. Bias preferred here.
  11. Hi Nice shot from what is a challenging setup. Well done. Should be great for smaller galaxies. 1000d, so best to lose the dark and dark-flat frames and instead go only with bias and flat. Dither between each frame and stack using a clipping algorithm. Flat frames aren't really optional though. (The aperture is set by the telescope, not in camera) HTH
  12. You need the bleeding edge version. Don't worry. It's very stable already. If you can get some frames with a say a bi colour or UHC filter, so much the better.
  13. AutoDev-decon-shrink the stars where you want them, then use Entropy to boost just the Ha channel. Try loading the red into NBAccent? Like the first one. Especially the stars. Cheers
  14. If you want a cc and leave the focuser intact on a pds, then the answer is to use the gso cc. This cc moves the focus position away from the tube. Whilst the Baader and GPU leave the focus position intact, the sw 0.9 moves the focus position toward the tube. All three of the latter will give 'D' shaped stars unless focuser modifications are made, the sw being the worse culprit. An alternative would be to move the main mirror up the tube say 1.5cm and fit a larger secondary.
  15. Not sure what st modules you used nor what you did in GIMP but here are a few general points for st and faint nebulosity. On the second and any subsequent AutoDevs, try including a more representative ROI. Experiment with different ROIs looking at the effect of each. For example, try part of the nebula, then an area of star field. Try a saturated star with and without background... The best way to get the hang of it is to try it. It only takes a few seconds and you see the results instantly. In this shot I think it important to sample faint nebulosity as well as part of that dense star field, otherwise as you note, the stars take over. Another good indication of whether you're losing data is to have a look at the transition between nebula and background. Don't allow the latter to go too dark with too abrupt a gradient. Don't worry if you don't get it right first time as the beauty of st is that you can redo development as and when you like.
  16. Lovely data and a nice process. Maybe leave a more room for the fainter stuff via the AutoDevs? This is with -very close to default- settings- on v1.8.512 under Ubuntu:
  17. Siril has a good re-sample routine under 'geometry', but it's not as good as the one in StarTools' 'Bin' module. At that focal length, maybe best to bin anyway though. Fast computer or otherwise.
  18. Hi Good idea. It's an excellent way improving your images. In fact, unless you've a top end gaming machine upon which to process full frame stacks, binning as the first stage in processing is also a good way to speed up subsequent steps. Most astro software has a bin algorithm. Some work better than others though. Cheers and HTH.
  19. Hi everyone Maybe this will help visualise? Here is a photo of a Dell computer. It cost €80. It runs indi, ekos and kstars. It just works. All night. No rpi. No windows. Anywhere. You can sit next to it and use the touchpad and keyboard or control it from anywhere there's a connection to Internet using your 'phone, a tablet... Cheers
  20. Well done. A great improvement. With that amount of data though, I still think there could be more to be had. There seems to be some of the fainter stuff missing. The clue being the second AutoDev. Lose the dark flats and don't get too hung up with the noise;) Cheers
  21. I've only looked through one. With an eyepiece. Great for carrying around from place to place. Very colourful, as confirmed here. A visitor summed it up well, 'It's like looking at a wo telescope in daylight!'. Cheers
  22. Hi Another advantage is still being able to use your Nikon lenses -just add a cheap adapter-. Another being a route to myriad -many excellent- m42 lenses, such as Takumar as Zeiss, using an equally economical adapter. Cheers and good luck.
  23. Hi Nothing wrong. You just need an extra step; debayer. Then you'll see colour. I used Siril, but most astro apps will do something similar. Cheers and HTH
  24. Hi Very difficult to say with what we have. Cheers
  25. 800d? It would probably be a lot easier viewing on your 'phone instead. At any angle you like:) When you get close to your target, lose live view and take single, say 5s, frames at ISO12800 so you can see any nebulosity and frame properly. +1 for @Grant93's suggestion of a well aligned finder telescope to get you close, although at just over 300mm, you'll probably be ok without. Cheers and HTH
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