alacant

Hi Ensure the eqmod guide speed is at least 0.5 sidereal. Leave it connected. Now make a new phd2 profile. Same settings you used before for the camera, but choose EQ5/6 for the mount. HTH

Yes. You can see it in the photos I posted. I think @almcl used the same OAG as I.

Hi. Remember that DEC must be balanced both longitudinally and laterally. Everyone forgets the lateral (turning) balance. To help balance, the camera should be placed so as to give the lowest centre of gravity. On the 130, this is with the camera hanging vertically downwards when parked N-S. Guiding: an OAG is lighter, gives the best stars (by far) and all but eliminates flex. HTH.

Hi. No, a sw.

A dreamy rosette, but unfortunately running out of frame. The nebula extends further than suggested by kstars. Or -far more likely- I entered the focal length incorrectly in the first place. Maybe a two frame mosaic? Comments for improvement always appreciated. Thanks for looking.

Only... Good luck with the purchase. It's a good combination for imaging:)

Hi This one will work fine. HTH

Excellent. If you have the patience for 100 of the same then great, but as many as you can. Then stack to see the whole spiral. HTH

You don't need guiding for recording moon and planet videos, a tracking mount will be fine, so the t7c would be a good choice. Take your videos and extract the best frames to stack using e.g. autostakkert. HTH

Hi. No. You either guide or image. Maybe use the t7 for guiding and e.g. a DSLR for imaging? Or use a tracking mount and take video using the t7. Not sure what type of images you want but HTH anyway.

Hi That slides directly into the focuser; tighten the two screws onto it as best you can. Screw 2" filters to the front of the coma corrector or use a clip filter for your dslr. I don't know of a way of getting a 1.25" filter into that light path. HTH

Hi How about M45 and m15 with your 32mm eyepiece? The first is easy and by the time you've found the second, m42 will have risen. Plan? Cheers and good luck.

Hi There's loadsa detail in the iris too. Not even 2 hours? Amazing...

Hi Lovely image. I'm guessing that there's a Baader cc before the sensor; astigmatism and fat stars. If it's not a Baader, then the seeing? Cheers and clear skies.

Hi That's more like it. Now simply take your choice of any aforementioned telescope and we promise not to advise otherwise! Cheers and clear skies.

Hi. So you can see nothing when looking through the telescope? It's black? No light when you move around the telescope? Or is there something, but out of focus? My guess is that you haven't used the diagonal: Point it at something distant during the day. A pylon, tree or distant roof tops. Now insert the diagonal. Next an eyepiece into the diagonal. Turn the focus knob fully clockwise. Next, looking through the eyepiece, begin to turn the focus knob counter-clockwise. There will be a point at which the object snaps into focus. You'll need to turn the focus knob maybe up to 40 times fully in to fully out. If not, send us a photo of the best image you can get; just hold your 'phone up to the eyepiece. HTH.

Hi. In that case, you also need to look at this thread. HTH.

I think the 130pds thread speaks for itself. As @happy-katmentions, we don't know what mount you have, but if you want astro-photography and have a relatively easy time of it, have a look at this. Astro-photography did you say? Someone has to be first! But seriously... good luck and clear skies.

Hi. Where?

Hi. As soon as you remove the mirror, it will be obvious what you need, what you need to do and which size bolts you need. It's easy, but you end up with a compromised telescope; see below. Is there an astro club near you? Most reflector owners there would do the modification for you. Yes. Yes, it's a pain. And you lose light around the secondary mirror which after moving the primary mirror is now too small to intercept all the light. In the end, if you want to do astrophotography, sell up, get the 130pds and have done with it! Cheers

And, more importantly, the length of the tube;) Cheers

Hi You're only about a cm from focus with your dslr, so simply put longer bolts (this was a 250p, so m5 bolts) to move your primary mirror up the tube. Keep the original springs and shim using nuts and/or washers. Here we went for a 3cm extension. Cheaper than buying a new camera;) HTH

Hi. Yes, but not I fear to do what you intend. With the motor disengaged, use a piece of rubber tube fitted over the shaft flat ends you mention during adjustment of the gear mesh. Turning the shaft by means of the rubber extension turns the worm, so allowing a check for binding between the worm and the gear. You can slacken off when you find a position where it binds. Do this around 360º and you have as good an adjustment as is possible. HTH

Hi Both mirrors would collect the same amount of light. To get faster optics I think you'd need a larger mirror, so I don't think it would be worth it as you'd need a new tube/spider... Everything. The main advantage of the f6 is that you -almost certainly- wouldn't need a coma corrector, so no glass to introduce colour abberation:) The only -not much of a- disadvantage is that you'd have a slightly narrower field of view when compared to the f5. Just my €0.02 but HTH anyway.

Ah, ok. So the double stars appear only in the stacked image? That happens when the individual frames have not been aligned, resized and rotated prior to stacking, so the stars on each frame coincide. Or maybe in this case, one errant frame - perhaps one with insufficient stars to be included in the registration process- has been stacked alongside the correctly registered frames. Cheers and HTH.