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Everything posted by kens

  1. I doubt PPEC would work on such a short period. Targetted PPEC is often recommended for PE in the 100 to 200 second range. In this case it could be used to attenuate the 122 s period although it is not too bad at 0.2" RMS compared to the 0.6" RMS of the 13.6s period. The problem is that it is not caused by just one tooth - its every tooth mesh and it is across three gears. And given that they are not in whole number ratios then you would expect every combination of tooth to tooth to come about during normal rotation. This article shows how the belt mod can help: https://www.amateurastrophotography.com/heq5-pro-belt-improvement-1 You replace two points of tooth contact with a belt that engages multiple teeth on each gear. Here is a graphic illustrating the tooth mesh: http://www-mdp.eng.cam.ac.uk/web/library/enginfo/textbooks_dvd_only/DAN/gears/meshing/gearAnimation.gif If one tooth disengages before the next one engages you get this kind of periodic error
  2. You cannot make is longer as it is a function of the mechanics of the mount. The video you followed gives the right approach to sorting out the gear mesh so you may need to redo the RA axis. Unfortunately you can only try it and star test till you get it right. It may not be fixable by adjustment. A belt mod could help if you wanted to go down that path.
  3. The 13.6 response is still quite high. PPEC wont help as it is too short to be easily guided out. it is making up the bulk of your RA RMS value.
  4. The DSLR tab is new and was a request from another forum member. It might need a bit of code tweaking but it completes the functionality of the AAP.
  5. 13.6 seconds is the gear tooth mesh period on the HEQ5. Every spur gear tooth engages and disengages its counterpart at that period. A spike at this period indicates that the gear mesh should be adjusted at one or more points in the drive train. Often the motor housing positioning is the culprit. A belt mode can help as long as the belt is properly tensioned.
  6. Ok. That means it is nothing to do with having time or location set. When you use the arrows Ekos issues a command through the driver to "Start slewing East" (or West). When you release the button it issues a "Stop slewing" command. If you hit the Stop button it also issues a "Stop slewing" command. Did you try that at the time? So it looks like the "Stop slewing" command has gone astray. I'd start by looking at the USB connection. Could be that as the mount slewed the cable came loose? Another possibility is a driver issue. I'm assuming you are using the EQMOD driver and connecting directly to the mount and not via the Synscan. Its a heavily used driver so I would have thought any issue like this would have been picked up by now. A third possibility is that Ekos did not respond to your mouse clicks. Even more people would use that function but it could point to an unresponsive system. If you have a Kstars or INDI log that could provide more information. If not, I suggest you enable logging for the Ekos Mount module and the INDI mount driver to capture the details in future. To avoid the problem while you sort things out, you could instead use goto instead of a manual slew. That should be safer.
  7. Thanks for the new tutorial. It looks very good as does the new release overall. A suggestion would be to add that with thermally controlled cameras, the darks should be taken at same temperature as lights, and dark flats at same temperature as flats, to get the proper noise correction. Just a suggestion as I know how much effort goes into writing code, documenting and making tutorials.
  8. Were you slewing in RA with a Goto or were you pressing down the East (or West) button on the Ekos mount control?
  9. Thanks, that's the kind of feedback I'm looking for. I'll change the port numbers and do a bit of testing on the edge cases e.g. what happens if you change a label. Should the port switch off, stay in its current state or what? I'm inclined to switch off as the safest route but that could be annoying if you make a mistake. I'll also see if I can force the "None" option to be always off. INDI is not so good at disabling controls so it would be a soft restriction. And to keep on topic: With this driver we should have a highly functional power control system for ASIAir users that have outgrown the functionality of the app but do not yet need the power capacity of the Pegasus. From there, adding a Pegasus is easy using the INDI Pegasus driver.
  10. That's one of the issues I was alluding to with the nightly builds. There is a change in the INDI library which introduces defineProperty for use by all drivers. But the new library is currently only available in the nightly build. So when you try to build it fails unless you install libindi-dev from the nightly. Even then it depends which OS you are running. Last time I looked, it had not yet propogated to Ubuntu 20.10 or 21.04. It should all be sorted with the next INDI release.
  11. Still worth highlighting the risk. I think it's still worth highlighting the risk about the nightly builds. You should remove the nightly PPA as soon as you install the driver if you don't want to be exposed. Or wait till the driver is in the stable build to be completely safe.
  12. I thought there were already INDI drivers for the Moonlite and Lakeside focusers. As a side note, the pigpio library that the driver is based on http://abyz.me.uk/rpi/pigpio/ gives the option to use the GPIO pins on the RPi to drive a stepper motor (via suitable circuitry equivalent to the Arduino shield).
  13. If you are game to install from the nightly build then: sudo add-apt-repository ppa:mutlaqja/indinightly sudo apt-get update sudo apt install indi-asi-power A new release of KStars and INDI is imminent so be careful as the nightly build is on a different version to the stable build and might mess things up for you I'm about to push a set of minor fixes to the driver. Hopefully this allows the package to enable the systemd service and also adds some small enhancements. These will take a day or two to make it into the nightly build. To remove the nightly ppa sudo add-apt-repository --remove ppa:mutlaqja/indinightly
  14. All INDI drivers have a control panel. This one is very specifically configued to manage the GPIO pins used by the ASIAir Pro but could be easily adapted for other pins and other uses. I don't actually own an ASIAir so initial testing was done on a RPi3 with LEDs connected to the GPIO pins and then by owners of the ASIAir. Be aware that when you install another OS that you cannot use the ASIAir app. You need to use Ekos or any other INDI compliant program. So as mentioned above, when you want to use the ASiAir app then boot from the ASI SD card. If you want to control a wider range of equipment with fully functional tools like Ekos and the latest PHD2 then boot from an alternative SD card Using an OS like Astroberry or Ubuntu, things like wifi are easily manageable by the usual OS tools. I don't know what the reset options are but assuming they are not GPIO related then I have not investigated that. This driver was solely to ensure that the power ports could still be controlled. BTW an alternative is the Astroberry DIY driver. The down side is that its configuration means that the On and Off controls work in reverse. I have a patch to make that configurable, but it also is unable to drive the pins with Pulse Width Modulation e.g. for light panel and dew heater control. So this driver is a completely new one. If you only need On/Off control then the Astroberry DIY driver is a good option and has fewer moving parts.
  15. No. The idea is that if you want to install an alternative OS you can still control the power ports. It can also be used on a normal RPi if you want to DIY power ports and control them.
  16. Install PHD2LogViewer. https://openphdguiding.org/phd2-log-viewer/ And read up on how to analyze the logs: https://openphdguiding.org/tutorial-analyzing-phd2-guiding-results/ And study the troubleshooting guide: https://openphdguiding.org/manual/?section=Trouble_shooting.htm If all else fails: https://openphdguiding.org/getting-help/
  17. Maybe someone told them the licence requirements of the various open source components they use
  18. I've just written a new INDI driver that is now in the nightly builds: indi-asi-power lets people who want to convert their ASIAir to a full blown INDI but control the power ports. Still in beta while it is being tested.
  19. If your RPis are both set up as hotspots you probably want to make sure each one has a different IP address or at least a different Wifi SSID.
  20. @lrt75914Can you post screenshots from PHD2 Log Viewer using the "Analyze selected frames" and Frequency analysis option?
  21. have a lookat https://github.com/rkaczorek/astroberry-diy There is a driver there for a focuser controlled from the GPIO pins, but its a way to control a stepper motor and could possibly be adapted.
  22. Can't see Polaris to polar align? You folks from the northern hemisphere have it so bad
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