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Hello everyone, I just started using a new pc for my setup, and I installed everything copying the exact same settings from my old one. Unfortunately, I seem to be unable to calibrate PHD2, since the program keeps telling me that the stars are not moving enough, and the history graph is showing nothing. Could anyone help me figure out what is going wrong? Everything worked flawlessly with my old setup (altough, admittedly, I haven't had the chance to use it in a month, since the skies have been cloudy). I am ataching 2 log files from tonight, just in case. Thanks in advance! Log 1.txt Log 2.txt

I have recently moved from the UK to NZ and I am about to move into house on the side of hill which blocks and view of due south. I have been recommended PHD2 for alignment assistance, although it seems I would need a guide scope for this? According to what I’ve read, a guide scope focal length is usually a third of the telescope focal length. In my case, I have a Mak 127 with a 1500mm focal length, however I do not want to image, just purely visual astronomy. Will a smaller focal length guide scope be ok for this? Thanks in advance!

I'm watching a video that popped up on my Youtube feed a couple of days ago. The Ins and Outs of PHD2 Calibration with Bruce Waddington, one of the PHD2 developers. Bruce starts by explaining what the basic intention of guiding is and then goes through how and why PHD2 does what it does and highlights several issues and misunderstandings. A thoroughly enjoyable watch and perfect for me as I have used PHD2 for several years by following the setup steps by rote but not really managed to understand what the displays are telling me. All the best Michael

Hi everyone, I'm using for the first time PHD2 and after connecting my mount and guide camera (Star Adventurer pro + ZWO 30mm f/4 + Orion Starshoot autoguider), the calibration process fails all the time. I've watched Peter Zelinka's tutorial, but in the end, after 60 west steps, I always get the same "the star didn't move enough" message. Why does phd2 wants the star to move anyway? isn't having stars as still as possible the purpose of guiding?🤯 I must obviously be too much of a dummy to be able to use a program called Press Here Dummy 😅😤

Hello, I recently did 2 nights of imaging and the first night everything was fine, guiding seemed to be within normal ranges. But later in the night my guiding started to get worse and eventually I got an error saying that PHD could not make sufficient corrections to the DEC axis on my mount. I checked for cable snags or anything like that but I didn't find anything wrong. The normal RMS I usually get is .40-.60", but when I got the corrections error the RMS became 1-1.20". I decided to leave it and it seemed to be stable for that moment. The next day I decided to leave my telescope rig out in my yard so I don't have to re-polar align. The next night I start my telescope back up so I can get imaging right away. When I start guiding, it seemed ok at first. But once PHD made a single correction on the DEC axis, the whole axis lost control. The graph veered down (or up) and it seemed that it simply could not control that axis, and I got that same PHD error as the previous night. The temps were also at a pleasant 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit. I have tried everything to diagnose this problem. The mount can slew and track the sky perfectly fine. PHD calibration fails because the star doesn't move enough (probably because of the DEC axis not responding), reinstalling drivers did nothing, checking cables, trying new cables did nothing, and more. So the only guess I have now is that the temperature did something to my guiding, although I have read online that people haven't had any issues of operating at these temperatures. Any suggestions? See images for more details. My current equipment I have: Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro ZWO ASI 1600mm mono ZWO ASI 290MM guidecam Skywatcher Esprit 100 ED ZWO 60mm guidescope Intel NUC Software: Sequence generator pro PHD2 re:

Hi all PHD2 seems to be playing up again and Iost a clear night again 🤬 Everything appeared to be fine and after polar aligning (separate camera to guide scope) I set up a new sequence. That started up and focused, plate solved and then guiding started but after a few seconds of perfect looking guiding the RA and Dec went off the scale massively ending up with a PHD error along the lines of "PHD2 is unable to make sufficient corrections in RA, check for cable snags, redo calibration...." Images obviously come out trailed. I have an RDP connection to the laptop at the mount so after happening a few times I went to check for snags etc but it all seemed fine. I set up the sequence again at the mount and the same thing happened. Restarting the apps, power cycling the kit and choosing different targets all resulted in the same issue so I packed it all away. It was also the same if I used PHD2 via NINA or if I just started PHD2 on its own and tried guiding separately. I'm using an AZ-EQ6 with a WO guide scope and 120mm if it's relevant. I checked everything was tight and have not looked at any logs yet but does anyone have any bright ideas what might be happening please? Thanks in advance...

Hello, I'm using phd2 guiding with an asi 120mm mini connected to my laptop via USB.. I have eq6r mount which is also connected via USB.. When I connect everything the mount can be controlled via the eqmod interface.. It slews in all directions.. However, when I connect to phd2 and try manual guiding to check if commands are going to the mount nothing happens in any direction.. I have the setting at 5000ms..i don't hear any movement from the mount and have had a look at the motors but they do not turn even when holding the direction button for minutes!! What am I doing wrong here? Please help as this is driving me crazy.. Thanks in advance

After some trial and error I'm getting some very good guiding results with PHD2 now. 60mm guidescope and ASI290MM mini camera. The M42 image taken late March was 12 x 15 second exposures taken manually with my dslr / C8 and a stopwatch. Stacked in DSS and played with a bit in GIMP. On the night I couldn't get APT to register the camera - turned out to be the mini USB cable (although later trials point to the socket in the camera being a bit loose too). Bought an iOPTRON iPOLAR that arrived on Friday and had a play with that which has resulted in near perfect polar alignment. 2 star alignment and an additional 2 calibration stars on my Advanced GT mount means I'm getting very accurate GOTOs now and PHD2 (through the ST4 port on the ASI camera) seems to be guiding very well. Last night after more cable faffing I managed to get everything working together to the point where I felt confident enough to leave it running by itself for an hour and a half (45 minutes of 180 second exposures plus 3 minutes each exposure to save the file - I've since found out I shouldn't have noise reduction switched on in the camera - DOH!) so M51 is 15 x 180 second @ ISO 800 lights and 5 x 180 second darks. A little manipulation in GIMP and I think it's come out very well. Obviously still have a lot to learn and I'm going to have to start taking much longer exposures but I'm quite pleased with these 2 pictures. Graeme.

Hi all, First of all mine english is not so good so sorry for that. I am a new to astrophotography. And my setup is Mount : Skywatcher EQM 35 PRO Tube : Skywatcher Explorer 150PDS (newtonian) Camera : Canon 550D Guide scope : Svbony 60mm compact guide scope Guide cam : Svbony SV105 I know my setup is weak and cheap but for now I have them (budged problem ) I started the hobby at May and I took some photos that not bad for beggining. I reached 60-90 seconds without guiding. After that I thought that the time for starting improve the guiding and I bought guiding scope and cam. I know the cam is not for guiding but it was cheap, and I am planing to change it with mono guide cam (like zwo asi120 mono) at next months. But my first experience for PHD2 was terrible. I've detected some errors and tried to fix them. First thing there was a unbalancing. I mounted the guide scope on the position of finder scope which is very close to edge of the main scope. So I fixed it (after the night I tried to guide with PHD2) and put it on the bracelet (over and middle of the main tube) And second thing was that there is a backlash and I tried to fix it too. I opened to gear of dec and adjusted to gear mesh. Except them the alignment was not so good because location was in the city (bortle scale 9) and I haven't got finder scope as you know. So I am not sure that if the stars (3 star alignment method) are correct because with nacked eye I could't see them. Next time I will do better alignment with finder for sure. After them I am planing to try next weekend again. But before that I need your advises to eliminate the problems which I couldn't detect or I don't how to fix them. For example I can not see any pulse for RA on the graph what does it mean and how can I fix it. And also I am not sure if there is any problem with ascom. There is no option in the drop list for EQM 35 PRO. So I choose ASCOM.SkyWatcher.Telescope and I downloaded/installed ascom driver from webpage of skywatcher. Thank you PHD2_DebugLog_2020-09-21_100115.txt PHD2_GuideLog_2020-09-21_100115.txt

Has anyone had any experience installing ASCOM driver onto the EQM 35 pros SynScan hand controller for using with PHD2? I'm watching a tutorial using PHD2 and the chap is using ASCOM for connecting his computer to his guide camera instead of using a cable. So the computer becomes the middle man instead of the mount. Thanks, Mark

I have graduated to APT and for the most part it is working. I can plate solve and autofocus with a skywatcher 150p and canon 550d. Pictures are also fine. The issue I am having is with dithering and PHD2. PHD2 works find with other software but for some reason, despite playing with settings I cannot get it to dither properly with APT. Issues have been: • the dither starts but does not stop; • the dithering stops after the new exposure starts; • APT says the dithering has stopped but the graph on PHD2 seems to suggest it hasn't. I have seen other threads and have played with settings but am having no luck. Any inspiration would be greatly welcomed! Thanks Simon

Hi guys I have a few questions I've recently upgraded to an ASI533mc pro from a DSLR. As I am living in the southern hemisphere and in bortle 6 light pollution, I don't have site of Sigma octanis to get a rough initial polar alignment and previously found that using the reticle feature on my DSLR live view with the synscan polar alignment routine, I could get quite accurate polar alignment in 5-10 minutes (180second unguided subs with around 80% keepers, I don't trust the estimates but under 2 arcminutes generally) My initial setup is usually 3 or 4 degrees out in azimuth. I had a go with phd2 PA last night without much luck, I'm assuming because my initial setup was more than a couple of degrees out. I'm happy to just use the synscan routine as I can complete it quickly enough and achieve a good enough alignment, especially now that I'm guiding, and it would seem I would have to run a few iterations of it anyway to get my initial setup close to simulate you lucky northerners with your bright polaris in the polar scope. So my question is, what is a decent piece of software with reticle live view to use with my Asi533mc pro? I currently have NINA, ASI studio and PHD2 installed and I couldn't figure out how to superimpose a reticle last night. Also, Sharpcap pro seems to be the most commonly recommended software for polar alignment. However I am using an SCT telescope and a smaller sensor camera so my field of view doesn't meet the requirements stated by sharpcap. Has anybody tried using Sharpcap pro PA at 1500mm and 945mm (f6.3 reducer) with any success? Besides drift alignment, which would take longer than the synscan routine for me, are there any other pieces of software that I should try that won't cost an arm and a leg? I'm running an HEQ 5 with a Celestron 6se using an Asi533mc pro imaging cam with an ASI290mm mini on a ZWO OAG for guiding. I'm open to suggestions for other software to use for imaging, I only installed NINA because the functionality and price point is amazing, and it gets rave reviews. Thanks in advance wonderful people!

Hi, I'm new to this whole auto guiding thing so bare with me! So I have a iOptron SkyGuider Pro with a WO Zenithstar 61 and recently bought a ZWO ASI120MM Mini and guide scope to have a go at auto guiding. I followed tutorials online step by step (installing drivers, and changing the settings in PHD etc.) and managed to connect the camera and mount in PHD, start looping exposures and select a star. But when I start the calibration, it counts to 'west step 61' and comes up with "RA Calibration Failed: star did not move enough" I have tried reinstalling all drivers/software, using a different laptop and solutions other people have found do not help. Guide scope is focused and it's not trying to track a hot pixel. The star is supposed to move up and down as the mount moves during the calibration although nothing happens. So this makes me think there is something wrong with the mount or the ST4 cable from the camera to the mount. Cable securely clicks into both ends. I have heard the term "backlash" with mounts and not sure if this could be the cause? Not sure what this means or if this is possible with a star tracker? I can't seem to manually control the mount in PHD although I'm not sure what I'm doing. I can however, manually press the buttons on the mount itself and it moves fine. I've attached pictures of my setup along with the 'Guide Log' that people often ask for - PHD2_GuideLog_2021-08-23_225305.txt (Also, the total weight on the mount is 4.7kg and the max payload is 5kg for imaging so this should be fine?) Any Ideas? Let me know if you guys need anything else. Thanks, Dean Setup: iOptron Skyguider Pro WO Zenithstar 61 ii Guide Camera: ZWO ASI120MM Mini Guide Scope: 32mm F4 (focal length - 125mm)

*Moved to correct forum*

Hi, first post so please bear with me, having issues with autoguiding, looked at numerous forum threads and cannot find the issue specific to my setup and the issue I am having. Equipment in question: ZWO 224 using as guide camera plugged into raspberry pi running Astroberry via USB3, Lynx Astro EQDIR cable plugged from USB on raspberry pi into hand controller port on AZ GTI. Configuration: Synscan android app successfully connected to AZ GTI via wifi and can control via mobile phone, AZ GTI setup to connect to raspberry pi (so it's on the raspberry pi network) AZ GTI connected successfully as it is recognised in PHD2 and EKOS, In PHD2 the mount is setup as INDI mount (AZ-GTI) and connects. Issue: PHD2 is unable to guide in either RA or declination (see screenshot error showing up), it is always one or the other. I have tried setting up multiple times, tried using the network cable which came with the camera directly from the camera into the hand controller port and setup in PHD2 as "on camera" (I suspect this setup is wrong anyway and was one of the first I tried). Polar alignment has been checked multiple times, the end result is always the same, the star field within PHD2 window will always drift in one direction so any star chosen will eventually disappear out the field of view as the mount isn't moving to follow it. Looking at the PHD2 graph I know it is trying to send pulses to the mount but either the movement is too much for the mount to move or something isn't happening as it should, in the example screenshot provided I tried this indoors on a fairly fast (compared to in the field) rotating star field looking at a screen so it will fail, though the mount didn't adjust at all, no matter how I've setup prior the AZ GTI refuses to adjust to follow a guide star. I have tried manually moving the mount in PHD2 and it doesn't seem to move in any direction, manually moving however does work in EKOS so the hardware seems to be plugged in correctly. EKOS even knows where the mount is pointing and can issue go-tos (although it is slightly off target at the moment). I am kind of at my wits end to why autoguiding isn't working, if anyone can help please assist. On another note if someone can advise how to configure PHD2 so the off yellow warning box colour can be changed so the error message can be read clearly - I know theres a line of code I can use in the terminal window which refers to a resource file to change to the default PHD2 colours and launches the software but the changes are never saved.

Dear Avalon Enthusiasts, Do you have PHD2 Guiding Logs that you could share? Preferably at least 30 minutes long. I am curious about the contribution to the overall error from the individual parts of the belt reduction gear. PHD2 Log Viewer provides nice analysis capabilities for that. I am especially interested in the frequency analysis. Background is that I have built a motion module that uses a timing belt gear reduction quite similar to the Avalon mounts. Performance is quite good already, but I would like to compare it to the "real thing". 😃 CS Guido

Hi All, wondered if you could help me make sense of this ... new HEQ5 - belt modded by FLO, all feels good, minuscule backlash but strange guiding. Admittedly first time using it but baffled. Failed calibration see image below and guiding seemed to be Ra and Dec following each other. Stars look ok ish (@ 1500 mm ) Needle galaxy is poor as only about 10 mins each in RGB note - it was hazy and did keep losing star in OAG Thanks for looking PHD2_DebugLog_2020-05-19_221608.txt

As I remember it was painful for me at the beginning to find complex list of the software that needs to be installed on your PC to control your rig remotely so I have decided to tie all things together and share. I will try to explain it simplest I can. As whole idea is quite complex I am not going to be too detailed. You can treat it as quick catch up for novices and beginners only. I have tested it all on Windows 10. I am a beginner as well but true is that I have struggled a lot to find those information all together (what actually you need to install) so it could make some confusion for novices I think. That’s why I want to tight things a bit together and reveal the tip of the iceberg. But at least COMPLETE tip. It should be suitable for most of equatorial mounts with guider. First why I am not using SynScan hand controller? Answer is simple. Controlling rig through PC is way more accurate and more convenient. So in general I have USB hub attached to one of tripod legs. To this hub I have connected: HEQ5 Pro mount through EQDIR USB cable (it is plugged on mount into hand controller port) ZWO ASI 120MM-S guide camera which is attached to my guide scope Canon 6D camera 2 x dew heater straps (for scope and guide scope). Those are attached to charging only ports on my USB HUB. Mentioned USB HUB is plugged to the laptop which is outside, close to my rig during sessions. Then I use RDP to connect to laptop from inside of my house as both, laptop and my desktop are connected to the same router. Concept is simple as you can see but it needs whole bunch of software to be installed and configured to work properly. Again I will go through it quickly to do not mess too much and I will try to provide links for some tutorials which I have used at the beginning to understand whole concept. ASCOM; You can understand it as a platform which will create environment for EQMOD driver (I will explain what EQMOD is in next paragraph). This, alongside with EQMOD, is core part which will communicate with your rig through USB and also will create a kind of link between all astrophotography software that you need. Please watch Dylan’s short vid who has explained it in convenient way: https://youtu.be/Se88i3Cs6M0. You can find and download ASCOM platform in here: https://ascom-standards.org/. EQMOD (EQASCOM) is a driver that provides the astronomical 'brains' of the mount control system as per: http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/eqaindex.html. As you can see there a list of functionality is huge. You can download it from here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/eq-mod/files/EQASCOM/. FTDI Virtual COM Port Driver is another small piece of software that you need to install. In general it is driver for your EQDIR cable. To be honest I haven’t heard about it in ANY tutorial. Like everybody has forgot about it but without it nothing will work. So in general EQDIR USB cable needs to be emulated as standard COM/Serial device. You can find it in here: https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm. It will install itself as COM1, 2 or 3 device. You will need to pick same port in EQMOD with same speed. Above three apps are core and needs to be installed. If you have doubts (I am sure you do, like I had a bit more than a month ago) please just lurk YouTube and watch more related tutorials. You will need also to install drivers for your main and guide cameras. You can find it on your manufacturers website. Now I will describe software of my choice (of course you can pick another, as there is a few alternatives for each of it). Those software will let you auto guide your object in more accurate way, perform polar alignment without looking through polar scope, will help you to plan your session on particular objects and check FOV, will control your main camera wit GoTo functionality and many others: PHD2. Ok in here there are no alternatives. If you have decided to control remotely you rig you need an autoguiding software and PHD2 is probably only or at least best and simplest option. In general it will connect with your mount, guider, will “stick” on one or more stars close to your object, will look on it carefully through your guide scope/guide camera and will send information to your mount how and where it should move to stay on track. You can visit again Dylan for more info: https://youtu.be/Mt0luBLaHDw. You can download PHD2 from here: https://openphdguiding.org/. This is first example of software that will communicate and control your rig through 3 core software described above. SharpCap; This is actually software of my pick. Its main purpose is planetary astrophotography but it has one very useful for me functionality. A great and cheap tool for polar alignment. You don’t even need to look through your polar scope or spent fortune on dedicated polar cameras. It will use your guide scope camera! I have used this tutorial to learn it: https://youtu.be/ivlgbgNIeTU. It is really simple and straight forward. No more kneeling in the wet grass for just 10 quids: https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/. If you struggling with standard PA process you should definitely consider to check it out. I am super happy with it. Cheers @SharpCap. Stellarium. This is planetarium software of my pick. I use it to plan my session in time, plan FOV (at what angle should the main camera be attached to the focuser to cover object in best possible way) and before I used it as GoTo tool (now I use Plate Solving GoTo). You can find more info and download it in here: http://stellarium.org/ A lot of people use app called “Cartes du Ciel” but I have never tried it.. Astro Photography Tool – APT. Next software of my pick. I use it to control my main camera, plate solving and few other minor, but still very important things. Cost is less than 20 quids per year for further updates. I think I have decided for APT because I like interface, functionality and something silly- most of experienced astrophotographers which I have watched on YT have used it. And I absolutely do not regret it. You can check demo version or buy it in here: https://www.astrophotography.app/downloads.php. You can watch Trevor’s walkthrough as well: https://youtu.be/icd9Tlrb9Jg. Lots of astrophotohraphers uses NINA which is offering similar functionality and it’s free. I haven’t tried it for longer yet as I have already get used to APT but if you want and you will like it - it could save you 20 quids. Plate Solving – is one of very cool APT and NINA functionality (based on external free software). In general it works like this: You can for example take a blind shoot of night sky and ask plate solve software to tell you where exactly you are shooting with your scope and how FOV look like for you. So if your software knows it already it can take you to any other object on the sky just like that (like GoTo). I have learned how to install and use it from this video: https://youtu.be/dpYXoYEKFpA. It is 2 apps plus databases. You can also consider to buy (or at least check out) ZWO ASIAir. In general it is micro PC which has all software similar to above installed and tied together on one simple panel which you can control through WiFi on your tablet. A lot of astrophotographers use it. I didn’t have any occasion to try it yet but it looks so complex and simple in the same time. Definitely it looks very convenient and handy as well. At the end just few words about post processing software of my choice: AstroPixelProcessor; why I have decided to pay 60 quids to rent (or 200 to own) software to stack images if there is free Deep Sky Stacker? Because I live in Bortle class 7/8 area so my data is not the best quality. I have found that APP is handling it much better and it has important for me, and well working functionality to remove light pollution and perform initial photo stretch. You can find more info in here: https://www.astropixelprocessor.com/. I have learned it from Tim’s tutorial: https://youtu.be/9EAKNqZ201Q. It is very simple in use as you won’t need to change most of the default settings. Someday maybe I will switch to PixInsight which offers even more cool postprocessing functionalities but like for now I am happy with APP + PS 2021. PhotoShop. I am absolutely not PS magician but I just get used to it already. You can try free GIMP if you would like to. If you have read this to the end you see that actually to control your rig remotely and PP your photos you need to install… around 15 different applications and drivers. As I have mentioned at the beginning this makes a lot of confusion for beginners because you can find detailed instructions for particular programs or drivers but you will never find complex list from A to Z (at least I haven’t found) of software that you will need. I will highlight it once again that most of the described apps are my personal choice and you can find other options (I have tried to provide a few alternatives). Another problem is that most of this software needs to be configured properly so unfortunately you will need to dig more on your own but I think this is pretty good portion of information if you have just started. Good luck and clear skies, Raf

Hi I've set my scope up on it's pier in my ROR observatory, done a few drift aligns and started to take some images. I've noticed a 'quite' regular dip in my DEC line on several nights. Would anyone be able to have a quick scan of my log and offer any insight? Could it be backlash? Could it be something with each rotation of the gears? Faulty tooth? It is quite regular, although not always, and always in the same direction. It doesn't seem to be adversely affecting imaging yet, but I've not tried anything too taxing. Thanks Joe PHD2_GuideLog_2018-09-23_200940.txt

I've picked up a second hand Lightrack II recently, so was keen to test it. My plan was to use the guiding assistant in PHD to get a graph of the tracking performance, but initially the mount wouldn't move. After a search, I had to modify the guiding cable that came with the mount, as it was wired up 'the other way' to the one required for QHY5L. After that it calibrated fine and could run the test. Below is a 22min graph of the unguided performance, while it's not within the 2" peak-to-peak quoted, it's still pretty good. Next I've tried it with a canon 300mm lens (unguided again), the picture is a crop of a 10min exposure, slightly eggy, but again pretty happy with that.

I connect my mount to PHD2 using ASCOM and most nights I have the error "Star did not move enough" as well as "Suspicious blah blah, axis may not be perpendicular". This does not happen when I connect the mount via ST4 cable. I read somewhere that I can do a Calibration Sanity Check in PHD2. I am however unable to find that function in the software. Is it some pop up feature or does it have a location in the settings/brain icon? Any help will be highly appreciated.

Hi All! I have guiding problem with the following guider setup: 9x50 finder + ZWO ASI 120mm mini + PHD2. The imaging scope is a 6' newtonian + canon dslr on a HEQ5, driven by a laptop via diy EQDIR cable. When the mount is set up and running correctly, polar aligned and all... I connect the guider camera and mount with phd2. All nice and easy, I run a calibration, then it starts to guide. All seems ok. Then I am starting to take pictures. The first seems OK, then the second have the star trails... I check phd2 and there is a message: the camera (ASI) did not take a picture for "xy" seconds so it is disconnected. Grrr.... I reconnect try to set up a longer period for "xy" in the settings as mentioned in the message. And all the same again and again. Whatever I add for connection timeout for the camera, it just reaches that and disconnect the camera. PHD + philips toucam has worked for me flowlessly. I changed to PHD2 because I gave myself a birthday present, the little ZWO camera. (and PHD did not recognize it) Do you have any idea what can be the problem? I will contact PHD2 help also, but maybe somebody had already the same problem and figured out how to overcome. I am almost sure I make some dumb mistake in the PHD2 software settings, however I tried to change only what was needed.

Can Nebulosity and Ph.D operate simultaneously and share a single camera. Running Win 10.