Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_2021_3.thumb.jpg.30e9b298c34c80517e8b443ce153fce3.jpg

Star Gazer

Members
  • Content Count

    222
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Excellent

1 Follower

About Star Gazer

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Location
    Devizes
  1. I spent a long time waiting for a suitable adapter from QHY for a PoleMaster CCD for my AP Mach1 mount. There were postings from the company that one was on its way, but it never materialised. So, in the end, I came up with my own solution, which others might want to take advantage of. Essentially, I designed an adapter in Onshape and then sent it away to be 3D printed (I don't have a printer). The design works really well and sits over the polar scope exit port, and while it has three holes to accept the thumbscrews of the sliding door, it sits so snuggly it doesn't really need them.
  2. I thought this camera had a lot of amp glow that needed processing out. Your images are fantastic and don't seem to show any glow. May be I am missing something..
  3. Hi John78, Yep the down sampling and the modified custom line has done the trick! Thanks very much for taking your time to help. As I'm new to this, it seems that I have to get the parameters just right. How much would the settings you have given me apply universally? Or will I need to teak them from photograph to photograph. One reason I ask is the picture you solved for me was a unguided 9 minute exposure, which is quite a longtime (). Admittedly this was at ISO 800. So for instance if I took a 60 second exposure at 800 ISO, there would be a lot less stars, so would it be more like
  4. Hi John78, I should have said that I reinstalled AT exactly as you did..
  5. Hi John78, Many thanks for trying this out for me an giving me detailed steps. Unfortunately despite using your settings it still doesn't solve. Strange how it works for you but not for me. Here is the content of the log: 2017-10-15 21:00:01,118 - astrotortilla - INFO - Read file stdin: 5184 x 3456 pixels x 1 color(s); maxval 255 2017-10-15 21:00:01,227 - astrotortilla - INFO - Using 8-bit output 2017-10-15 21:00:11,539 - astrotortilla - INFO - Extracting sources... 2017-10-15 21:00:17,812 - astrotortilla - INFO - simplexy: found 3127 sources. 2017-10-15 21:
  6. I just getting my hand back in for the winter season, and I thought I should give AstroTortilla (AT) a go. So I downloaded and installed the software (making sure I followed the tutorial advice on the Lightvortex web site). However no matter what I try I cannot get it to solve using any pictures I have taken. So I am looking for advice. This is one of the files I have tried to solve with https://www.dropbox.com/s/gnvailjzhmrfjhy/LIGHT_540s_800iso_%2B18c_20171012-21h09m43s857ms.jpg?dl=0 I comes from my Canon 7D Aperture Focal Length Focal Ratio Pixel Size Image Size Se
  7. Hi Paul 25 MINUTES is where you messed up. Next time try 25 SECONDS. Take 60 exposures, stack them in a suitable application and then you will have a beautiful equivalent 25 minute exposure - that isn't over exposed. Good luck
  8. What a beauty! You should veryproud! Hey Olly go eat Stub Mandrel's dust. Oh it looks like you already have.
  9. I use an Apple Cinema screen calibrated with a ColorMunki.
  10. Had my second play with PHD2 a couple of nights ago. The results were much more predictable with a 1-2 second exposure, so thanks to everyone for your advice. Below is the graph I achieved. The bit at the end where it goes a bit crazy is me messing with the main camera. Unfortunately I only got to adjust azimuth adjustment before the clouds rolled in. One question I have is; if the clouds hadn't have rolled in, is this curve saying I can get guide and would get good results for say a 500 mm FL scope, or do I need still need altitude adjustment, and possibly one more iteration of both az/alt?
  11. Thanks everyone for your advice. I naively took the defaults and did not consider exposure as the Lodestar X2 seemed to lock onto a star without issue. I will try with a 2 or three second exposure when the skies clear again. silos, my guide scope is a Borg Mini which has a focal length of 250 mm libraryman, yes the scope was on the west of the mount. Is that a bad thing when using drift aligning?
  12. Last Friday was my first time out with a guide camera (Lodestar) and the first time with PHD2. My aim was to use the drift alignment wizard in PHD2 to align my mount and of course to find out a few things along the way. I read up a bit on how to use the drift alignment wizard, but things are a bit abstract until you have a go. I started by levelling the mount and casually aligning the mount using the mounts polar scope. I then slewed (by hand) the scope to point toward the intersection of the meridian and celestial equator. Then I started PHD2. I focused and then calibrated the Lodestar. I did
  13. I recently acquired a Lodestar, which I want to use with my Mini Borg as a guide scope. However I don't want to put the Lodestar straight into the Mini, because it only has two crappy clamping screws and not a nice compression ring. I don't want to chew up the outside of the Lodestar, with super primitive clamping screws. Can anyone suggest a way to connect these two together? I think the Lodestar has a 1" email thread on it. So is there a 1.25" nose piece/extension tube with a 1" male thread available anywhere? ..or maybe a click stop focus ring, that could do the same? Would this be any good
  14. Hi Tim, I use LR for daylight photography and while it is good for cataloging and making simple edits (boosting shadows, adjusting colour balance etc) it is definitely no good for astro work. For instance there's no staking of images function, star alignment and as Francis says it would not understand FIT files.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.