iapa

I assume that you are not guiding yet? I agree with @cigraphics, you need more date, LP filter, and, if you can take bias, flats and darks that will help. 40 lights minimum), use ISO 800 (ISO 1600 reduces the gain, or light capture capability). I have a reference for Cnon 600D test results but not for the Nikon just now. 40 darks (or same number as lights) at the same exposure and temperature as the lights, with the DSLR get them as close as possible. See Rule of 500 50 bias - shortest exposure with lens cap on 50 flats - try a t-shirt* over the lens aimed at a bright clear sky**, dawn or dusk can be goo, with exposure set so histogram is 25%-30% from left 50 dark flats - same exposure as above but with the lens covered. * I got an embroidery hoop in put two lanes of t-shirt material on. ** I have also used a laptop with a white screen for the light source. As long as it is even. HTH

and take the darks at the same cooled temperature as you plan to use for lights. I tend to do a library of 30-40 images at -10C,-15C,-20C There is a presentation by Roger Glover (author of SharpCap) which covers theory and practical implications of temperature and gain values.

TBH I'd be proud to have produced these. 👏👏👏 Maybe posting details for each image, £ exposures, duration, ditto data on flats, darks, bias etc. What id you process with? Perhaps more lights at a slightly shorter exposure to sharpen the stars - I am NOT good at processing though.

I save in TIFF format from PI

One thing I seem to have missed if which cameras you are using, and what you are connecting them to.

Shortest USB 3 A-B I found was https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09FJ8CGH3/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09FJ8CGH3&pd_rd_w=O0lSK&pf_rd_p=a8d38b47-cfdf-4208-95a0-1af779cb6e7d&pd_rd_wg=4IdQH&pf_rd_r=R39XCZDPCBG06TE9E5K7&pd_rd_r=3231ec75-8fa5-406f-8d00-a1f68e63edab&s=electronics&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWWVJaQkpHR1VaOVYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NDQ0OTc0T1c4RUQ4VlQzQkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDM3MDM1NjJOQlVLUTdIN1ZDNTkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWMmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Bought new - had it since May last year. Have contacted vendor.

The inside of the read glass on my RedCat51 is heavily marked with dew spots. Is this somethingI can reasonable tackle, or am I best to send some where to do it properly? There is, no obvious access to the glass, and I don't what to screw up collimation.

I feel your grief @ 55 52" N

Thing is, even the 11" RASA FL os only about 620mm

No room for a 10"f4 quattro

A mix of Stellarium and SkySafari. Both link to the mount so I can get a first approximation on target centre - and also the let me stop forward our by hour until meridian. That gets input to SGPro o I can change targets based on meridian flip times. With that I was be able to set end RA/Dec for a target and move to the next. PS I've had 2yrs dead time so need to re do the above

It's, supposedly, an infinite universe. Basing everything on that premise, everything is possible, so, somewhere, in somewhen, time travel is possible. There is also consideration needed to parallel, multiple separate, and bubble universes. It's there, we just don't know about it yet. For me, I would hate o revisit my past, memories are bad enough. The future is dependent on my actions - which I rarely take consideration of

These 2 guys know more than the other 99% of us... they are also not alone. This site has very talented, experienced and knowledgeable individuals. My take is that they speak - WE listen and try their solutions, and spend a lot of time trying to understand the detail in their posts.

As an FYI, an AVX controlled by ASIAir Pro, with my RadCat 51 and an ASI 183, Slideguide focuser and ASI174 guide cam So, 1.98"/pixel (about 2 guiding RMS), and a guide ratio of 5.1 - somewhat under-sampling. I'm currently looking at a guiding RMS of <1" Not sure I believe that on an AVX. If I can match, or better, that on the CGX-L with the Quattro CF 10" f4, I suppose I should get something reasonable. I'll be searching though the quagmire known as my back garden for the pier in next couple of days.

I usually leave my kit out for days on end - with a cover over using the day for snow/hail/rain protection. here's one mount been outside for 2 years now - all seems fine. Make sure the external power socket is is protected by a circuit breaker, and in an IP67 casing. Otherwise per other replies, make sure that your cables have the freedom for a full 360 degree rotation.

" per pixel =(pixel_size__um*Binning/combined_focal_length)*206.3 you can swap this around as necessary combined focal length includes reducers

I’ve used the OTA on an AVX mount with a 0.63 reducer giving 1280mm focal length at f6.3. got good images just failed to get decent post processing- recently move to PixIndight so will see what that does for me.

OK, it seems to me that the overall consensus is that a longer FL is the order of the day here. I will sit down and work out resolutions for my cameras (ASI1600/183/294) with the 10" Quattro (1000mm) along side the 8" SCT (2032mm) and Ritchie-Cretien (1600mm) - l latter pair come to c1200mm with relevant reducers under Bortle 5 skies. The other day managed to get this (very heavily cropped) 120m stack with a 250mm RedCat50 and ASI183MC

As an imager with a preference to imaging galaxies and little results to date , I am reconsidering ownership of my 400/500 mm OTAs (RASA8",Equinox80ED Pro, Esprit ED80 Pro) and just using 8" SCT & RC along with the 8" & 10" 1000mm reflectors. Looking for advice as to whether this is a reasonable position to take

123*60s, 40*60s dark, 100*bias, flats & dark flats Pre&post processing with PI 1.8.8.12 integration_DBE_ABE_CC_PCC_Denoise.bmp

My CGEM-DX / Quattro 10" CF setup and PHD2 results

I got the Quattro CF 10" as it was an exceptionally good deal from @Skipper Billy, before that I was using the 200PDS, similar focal length at 1000mm ( without correctors etc), which gave very good results. The 10" is "faster at f4 because of the larger aperture.

pedant corrected origin post

mine is in the north corner of the garden, about a yard and a half from the fine to right and left. A clear, still, windless night it worked well. My thought is that the carbon fibre is lighter than the other 10" models. IF you have the 250PDS, the give it a shot, if it doesn't work for you upgrade the mount