Dr_Ju_ju

The Arduino on its own cannot drive anyform of motor, that's why the 'Arduino' part is usually made up from an Arduino Nano plus a motor driver module e.g. DRV8825, and some other components e.g. power connector etc... I mount mine in a custom 'black box' and can move it between various OTA's\Motors, so to answer your question, build the right one and you can re-deploy as required..

Hi Steve, The mount doesn't need to be perfectly level, just get it close, & then ensure that your polar alignment is good....

The link doesn't work, but from the bay, something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Startech-Com-7-Port-Black-Usb-2-0-Hub-ST7202USBGB-/401171601806?hash=item5d67b0d98e:g:OpgAAOSw-itXslLC

Try something like this instead https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LH5ZPNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 yes it's more expensive, but you'll still have your hair, instead of being pulled out, trying to make things work.....

I hope you mean that you'll use a powered USB hub, as 'y-splitting' the one lead. won't work.....

Welcome Back, wishing you clear skies..

just for info, INDI, is the Linux version of EqMod.. There's another thread running under software, that goes into more detail, i.e.

Gina, To divert any run-off water, dig a French drain along the top edge of the path with fingers down to the fence. This is just a 200x200 mm trench filled with pea gravel for the water to seep into...

as an alternative to bark chippings, there is rubber chippings e.g. http://dunweedin.co.uk/productsplaygroundbenefits/

So all you really need to do is after you've configured the initial alignment is to keep rotating the mount in RA... if that is the case, how about driving the ST4 port (switch) in one direction ?

Have you considered bypassing the hand controller & driving the mount directly from a computer using (M$ Windows World), Stellarium\CDC Ascom platform etc. this may allow what you want, but at the 'expense' of a PC, control connector etc....

I believe AZ/EQ-G equates to our AZ\EQ6 in that case, I just plug the FTDI adapter straight into the mount, replacing the handset altogether, and have no issues....

They are trying to sell a not too cheap pier, which they claim is better.... But after reading around, I made my own using 2x2M tubes (air-con ducting 250mm & 150mm diameters) filled with concrete. A bit of a pain to drill the hole, but it is rock solid.

Just to add further, I've just bought the SW .85 to go with my ED80, but one gotcha is that you need an additional Synta M48 to EOS\Nikon camera adaptor, which is another cost\delay...

Have you also considered upgrading the drive train to belt mod e.g. http://www.beltingonline.com/eq6-telescopebelt-mod-drive-kit-12220?zenid=0vl1sf1003vcqq5a7g0e9u6rr0 these replace those greasy cogs....

Hi Ellery, I went for a Baader MPCC Mk-III, which replaces the 'open' T nose piece. I've not tried it on my SW 100, but on my newts it performs well...

Windows will automatically try & use the latest driver installed on your system, which if it is a Proiific device, the latest driver won't work, you need to install and use Version 3.2. It Is available, but needs to be searched for, but beware the dodgy download sites

After you've connected the mount to the PC, using control panel\device manager, you should be able to see the mount under "Ports", then querying the mount will give you the COMM port. If it doesn't show up, then you need to get this fixed first.

for the installer, right click the executable file, & select 'run as administrator' for the application, right click the short-cut & select properties. On the compatibility tab \ settings section, put a tick in the "Run the program as an administrator" box and click apply

Hi Graham, have you tried the install running as 'Administrator' also try running the app as admin as well Forgot to add that I use the same version on a number of PC's