SlimPaling
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I am getting a bit confused about the best way to make flat frames in Maxim DL .... there seems to be more than one way of doing it from what I have found on the 'net. Can somebody please sort me out at all? OK .... I have a f6 Refractor , Moravian G2 Mono camera and a flat field foil. I am using Maxim DL to make (hopefully) accurate flats. What is the best way to make a set of flats of the correct exposure in Maxim DL??? Mike
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DeepSkyStacker 5.1.5 is now available
SlimPaling replied to perdrix's topic in Discussions - Software
My computer is a Win10 (64bit) .... I have had no probs installing files -
DeepSkyStacker 5.1.5 is now available
SlimPaling replied to perdrix's topic in Discussions - Software
It now makes sense 🙂 In my rush to get a newer version of DSS I hadn't spotted that "Two Icons" had been placed on my desktop!!! I had been clicking on the "Live2 version". I think that I have now got it all sorted. Thanks for your suggestion. -
DeepSkyStacker 5.1.5 is now available
SlimPaling replied to perdrix's topic in Discussions - Software
It certainly looks like it !!!! It looks like I have really messed up DSS up on my computer now. I have just spent half an hour deleting v5.1.5. (LIVE?) a then trying to get my original version back up and I keep getting the very same screen 😞 I can't spot the "non-live" version of DSS on the web site. How on earth do I get back to a full working version that can cope with my Solar imaging runs???? I am totally lost now 😞 -
DeepSkyStacker 5.1.5 is now available
SlimPaling replied to perdrix's topic in Discussions - Software
Hi ... I have just uploaded the new version ( I think that I was using v 4.1.1 before uploading the new version !) and I get a very plain screen when I open v5.1.5 up. I can't seem to get a "normal looking screen" that I had seen before. See my attached screen shot Am I missing something????? Mike -
Hi ... I need to tweek the back focus between the flattener on my f6 APO scope and my Moravian CCD camera to compensate for my 1mm thick filters. I have seen on the 'net that some people say that I need to increase the back focus by 1/3 of the thickness of my filters = 1/3mm However when I asked the manufacturer of my flattener & scope ( APM Scopes ) he suggested that I need to add 1mm to my back focus. Before I start to take my kit apart ..... does anybody have any suggestions which of the above is correct? Mike
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I am interested in also adding a camera to monitor my scope remotely during imaging sessions .... but I have a question that somebody might be able to help me with. My scope is controlled by a in10 mini computer in my observatory ... but I able to access this computer directly from my "House Computer" linked by an Ethernet cable and "AnyDesk". This system works great but I would like to be able to keep an eye on the inside of my observatory without the need to keep occasionally going down the garden. I don't really want to add a second Ethernet cable ( it was very involved to get the first one in place! ) and I don't have a mobile phone ( I am trying to avoid this ! ) So my question is ... what are my options to link a any one of the cameras, suggested above, in the observatory to my "house computer"? Will "AnyDesk" cope with it??? Mike
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Well ... I tried my trusty B&D drill with hammer option and it did not cope when the bit hit to a stone in the concrete and it went way off line and it completely destroyed my masonry bit.. I quickly realized that my resulting 4 holes would not have lined up with the holes in the bottom of my pier ..... and I changed tack. ..... I got a "JCB SDS Plus Hammer drill" which went through my concrete like butter with all 4 holes in the correct place. The whole process took about 5 minutes :-))) Mike
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You will almost certainly need to have access to a decent hammer drill to make the holes in the concrete. An ordinary drill ( even with a top quality masonry bit) will simply bounce off any stones in the concrete and go badly off course. Rawlbolts are fine.
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I hope somebody can help me to find where I can find accurate coordinates for a Comet. After a long layoff from imaging for various reasons .... a couple of nights ago, after looking up the calculated coordinates on the "NASA Horizon's" web site and entered these into my tracking software I took a set of 11 x100sec images of Comet 29P. After starting to process them I saw that the comet was quite a long way off the center of the images. I am assuming that the coordinates that I had used were slightly off. Yesterday I did some searching on the 'net into accurate daily Comet coordinates I am faced with at least 5 slightly different sets of Comet coordinates and I don't know which to use. The "NASA Horizon" web page gives me two different sets of coordinates ..... (1) "ICRF RA/Dec" and (2) "Apparent RA/Dec" coordinates. The "COBS" web site shows another set of coordinates. In CdC, when I click on any Comet , I get two more coordinates (1) "Mean of Date RA/Dec" and (2) " Mean J2000 coordinates" again slightly different to all of the others. So it total I am faced with 5 slightly different sets of RA/Dec coordinates to choose from! Does anybody have any suggestions as to which set of coordinates are best for me to try out next time I am able to do any Comet imaging? Regards Mike
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Hi ... can anybody please point me in the right direction? From what I understand it is possible to include pre-saved flat files automatically while doing solar imaging using Firecapture. However .... I have spent the last couple of days trying to understand how to do this and failed. I can't seem to find any information about this on the 'net ... including in the great video tutorials on the FireCature website 😞 Before I part with hard earned cash to purchase a "Daystar Flat Cap" can some kind person give me some clues .... or point me in the right direction? Mike
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Hi ..... can anybody help me to confirm the true orientation of my CCD Camera? I do not have a rotator fitted I need this information when I set up "Astrometrica". When I upload images to "Astronomy.net" it tells me that the orientation of my images are all " 179.9 degrees E of N " ..... and when I check my images with "Aladin" I can see that my images align up very well with the image on "Aladin". Am I correct in thinking that the my images are almost exactly horizontal .... but upside down? Does this mean that my CCD orientation setting in "Astrometrica" is 180 degrees??? Cheers Mike