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SlimPaling

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About SlimPaling

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    Nottinghamshire, England
  1. PROBLEM SOLVED :-)))) After a great deal of detective work I spotted that the problem starts as soon as I dis the stacking process in Maxim. I then realised that the "Auto Color Convert" button was ticked. After un-ticking this button and re-stacking the problem disappears I am not sure if & when this button got clicked as I don't normally click on things unless I know what they do .... anyway all seems well now :-))) Thanks everybody for helping me to get to the solution. Cheers Mike
  2. Hi William ... I have just check every one of my calibrated and aligned subs and they all have only NAXIS1/2 ...... none have NAXIS3. However NAXIS3 seems to appear from nowhere after I stack the files into a single Fit file .... is this a bug or am I doing something wrong in Maxim? Cheers Mike
  3. Hi William ... and others who are trying to help me sort this out Yes ... I am using my Moravian G2 Mono camera .. so I am expecting grey scale FITs images. I have just been checking the fits headers in some of my images .... my original fit images all have "NAXIS / NAXIS1 / NAXIS 2" (but no NAXIS 3) in their headers ..... however when I looked at the images that Maxim has saved they all include " NAXIS / MAXIS1 / NAXIA2 / .... AND NAXIS3" It seems that Maxim is adding NAXIS 3 to the headers when it is told to convert the FITs image to a TIFF ! Am I doing something wrong here ... ? I think it a good time for me to ask Maxim support for a bit of help here. If I hear anything useful from them I will post it back here. Cheers Mike
  4. Hi ... I have noticed that after stacking a series of images in Maxim and producing a "FIT file" ... if I then save it, within MaximDL, as a "TIFF File" and then open it up in Photoshop if comes out as a 16bit RGB tiff. If I ask "Fits Liberator" to save the same "Fit file" and ask it to convert it to a "TIFF file" it comes out as a 16bit Grey Scale tiff when I open it up in Photoshop. Looking at a particular YouTube video showing somebody processing LRGB files using Photoshop ... he is using "16bit Grey scale tiffs" without any problems. Does it matter if I use "RGB tiffs" or "Grey Scale tiffs" when it comes to processing LRGB files in Photoshop???? If there are clear benefits for me to be using "Grey Scale tiffs" in Photoshop .... is it possible for Maxim to save the "Fits files" as "Grey Scale tiffs" rather that "RGB tiffs" ... I can't seem to find any option in this regards? Cheers Mike
  5. SlimPaling

    First attempt at NGC 6888 using only LRGB subs

    I have spent much of the day re-doing my original subs and managed to get rid of some red cast and also found a bit more detail in the nebula Cheers Mike
  6. SlimPaling

    First attempt at NGC 6888 using only LRGB subs

    Yes ... I agree that there is a definite red cast in my image. This has been the most difficult nebula that I have imaged so far. The red stack showed very little real detail and I probably over did the amount of red to try to bring out the colour sufficiently. Plus the fact that when I added the Lum stack on top of the RGB layer the colour was initially a pale salmon colour which I have never seen before comparing results with other nebulae that I have processed before Not 100% sure why this should be so. I had to adjust the level of red even more to compensate and make the reds stand out better. I am new to all of this and still have a looong way to go before I get things right!!! A great deal of reading and trial&error to be done! Cheers Mike
  7. SlimPaling

    First attempt at NGC 6888 using only LRGB subs

    Hi ... many thanks for your suggestions .... I am currently looking into them and trying to understand how they are carried out. I am using Photoshop as I am finding PixInsight too complicated at the moment. I am hoping to get some Ha subs and a few more CLS subs to add to my current set .... when the weather allows !!! Cheers Mike
  8. Hi .. I have managed to get my first attempt at NGC 6888 ... 9x300sec CLS subs and 5x300sec RGB subs. Since reading up about this object I understand that it is pretty faint and really needs Ha subs to help bring out detail ..... I do have an HA filter on my wheel .... but the trouble is that I don't know how to combine Ha with my LRGB subs :-(((( Can anybody point me to where I can find out how to do this??? Cheers Mike
  9. SlimPaling

    aurora eurotech cloud sensor

    Why not contact Aurora Eurotech directly for some help? Their contact details are: Aurora Eurotech The Old Post Office / Fourways Main Street Fulstow Lincolnshire, LN11 0XF Tel: 01507 363846 Email: support@auroraeurotech.com Mike
  10. After a bit more research on the 'net .... maybe the answer to my problem is to combine a "West Mountain RIGrunner" (to give me 12vDC output ports) and a "Pegasus Power Hub" (to give me USB ports) Has anybody used a RIGrunner? Mike
  11. Hi Joel ... thanks for taking time to respond How do you get "mains power" to your system ... or are you running off 12v batteries? Mike
  12. Many thanks for taking the time to do these pictures for me I like the look of the Pegasus Power hub but am not 100% sure if,on it's own, it will do what I need to do. I "think" that I need a "DC Power Hub and also a "Powered USB Hub" I am looking to expand the number of USB ports available to cut down extra cables that are growing in number and also have some 12v DC outlets available to power up devices . It looks as if the Pegasus Power hub needs 12v input ......... so I would need a "DC Power Hub" on my OTA assembly with a 240v input .... this would then (I assume) be used to power the Pegasus unit and also have some 12v outlets to power up some of my other equipment. Any suggestions as to the best "DC Power Hub" ? Mike
  13. SlimPaling

    TeamViewer not connecting - HELP!

    I use Radmin rather than Teamviewer .... but I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. Eventually I discovered that the laptop in my observatory had re-set it's ISP number during a Windows 10 update ! After changing the settings in Radmin everything was fine. Mike
  14. Hi ... I am getting to the stage of thinking about trying to keep the cables to my various bits of kit ( on my main refracting scope and piggy-backed solar scope ) under control ... especially as I am looking to get more equipment added at some point. I can see that my Optec FocusLynx control box and my dew heater control box will need to be mounted onto my mount's saddle .... but other bits of kit (two CCD cameras, SSM etc) will need a power hub and also a USB hub in order to cut down on cables. However I am getting a bit confused after watching several YouTube videos and searching on the 'net there seems to be quite a few options for DC Power hubs and powered USB hubs. There seem to be quite a few firms making this stuff .... (RIGrunner/HiTech/Pegasus/Orico/ and probably more that I have not spotted yet!) I do not need outlets to charge mobile phones, etc. ...... just USB devices ...... and do all devices run off 12v anyway? Can anybody give me some suggestions as to my best options here ???? Thanks in advance Mike
  15. Earlier today ... at long last I have got around to doing my very first Ha view with a small prom after many delays caused by family issues/holidays/poor weather etc . ! This was the only prom that I found on the limb .... I am sure that I missed some judging by other images uploaded today by others. Thanks for all of the comments and advice that you have all given me .... I seem to be making some progress .... I am still learning how to process my images ( I know that I am over processing at the minute ) but my main problem seems to be finding correct focus. I find it a bit hit&miss when I have to run round to my manual focuser and then back to my screen .... many times over until I "think" that I have the best focus. At least I got a result .... I am not giving up Mike
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