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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. Finally managed to get a couple of hours at my new house in the south of France with my newly arrived kit from storage. Had to dust off more than just the equipment, very rusty at all this! Couple of hours with my new (to me anyway) Atik 460ex, on my relatively new AA115, with a very new reducer and a very new Chroma 3nm Ha filter. Had to change guider, as a filter wheel didn't do well in storage, so using an old ST80 and seems I have some flex in these images, but as I said - rusty! The skies here are a delight compared to Essex, and I have a lot of trees to dodge, but here is the provisional quick process result of 2 hours of 20 min subs: AA115, Atik 460ex, Chroma 3nm Ha - 6 x 20mins.
  2. Looking at it on a webpage now it has been uploaded, I have a feeling another go is in order
  3. Here is an iTelescope effort of Caldwell 19. Telescope T5. The SBIG camera has no anti blooming, so it bled all over this one in Lum, so had to do some L patching with the RGB data. Quite a fun processing exercise, albeit to the detriment of the final image. I am sure this is not to everyone's taste, but here it is. I am not altogether convinced I like using reflectors with spider veins for imaging. I like the diffraction spikes on bright stars, but it makes all the little ones a little blocky for me.
  4. I found that binning RGB with my 414ex never seemed to work well either, albeit at a shorter focal length than you. This is a fine effort though all the same and you have avoided the temptation to push the colours, which is nice. I really struggled when I had a go at this target.
  5. I don't think avoiding using darks is an option for you, given the ASI1600 amp glow you get in the right (same as my ASI1600), so it is a question of getting them right, which can be done. I had a play with the images you posted and can see some diagonal bottom left to middle right type dark lines in the darker areas but I tried various levels of aggression in stacking pixel rejection (used a Linear Fit approach in PixInsight with various rejection settings ) and found that this helped a lot. I would also recommend not binning in future, as I found it does not help with this CMOS, and the only benefit is reduced file sizes. With the short focal lengths on your Star71 and the mini pixels of this camera, you are imaging at 5-6 "/pixel when binning, which ends up with blocky stars and no real benefit I found, which may also we contributing to the artifacts. I use a reduced TS60 which is similar in FL and binning was an experiment I did once, and decided never to do so again.
  6. Been so long since I used my kit in anger, and only have my little TS60ED to hand at the moment from a town center location. With the ASI at unity, anything over 40 seconds was saturated with the Moon out as well, so far from ideal conditions. 50 blasted out 30 second R,G,B subs though. Just glad to be back out there!!
  7. 3ms is not going to result in a whole lot of light captured per frame. What kind of image of the pulsar do you want to get?
  8. CCD OSC cameras are still CCD cameras and can perfectly happily hardware bin just like mono ones. You just end up limiting the total light falling on the binned pixel because of the matrix. CMOS chips - different matter altogether.
  9. One consideration is how will you control it all in that dithering is going to be extremely tricky unless you just don't dither, just guide and take images independently.
  10. A surprise 800 for a totally unneeded astro luxury would be the Primaluce Eagle, so I could setup up way quicker and simply attach a battery to a setup and be done with it and not leave my laptop outside
  11. Agree with Freddie. Hyperstar is not a planetary bit of kit, more a tough DSO ask. As for camera choice, the DVDs will make things a lot clearer in terms of what you need for that kind of imaging. Matt
  12. The other consideration is the finding and retaining of a guide star. Fast short focal length scopes end up with wide fields of view with plenty of stars. Not so with longer focal length slower scopes.
  13. Hi Chris, I am going to find this far too hard to turn down. I'm in. PM sent. Matt
  14. For the Solar System high resolution goals you stated, I would be more inclined to watch the Damian Peach DVDs rather than read Every Photon Counts as the latter is a DSO imaging intro, the former aimed around planetary imaging. Kit wise, you will need a sturdy EQ and a large aperture, long focal length system. Given the location, you would not go wrong with a C11 (Edge or not, don't think it would matter a great deal) and the new Skywatcher EQ6-Pro, which can be used down to 5degree latitude, which is important, as some mounts can't go that low. A camera would need to be a fast framerate USB3 camera, and there are many to choose from - ZWO and the Altair ones are very nice. For Solar - hmm, different kettle of fish. Expensive as well, but a Quark and a piggybacked refractor along the lines Charl mentioned would work very well and not blow the budget.
  15. I have the ZWO filter wheel and have both Baader LRGB and the ZWO LRGB filter sets and I don't worry about which filters I use in a given setup. I prefer the ZWO 7 pos filter wheel to my SX one. Lighter, thinner, quieter and more reliable.
  16. This looks a lovely little scope. If the upcoming reducer works well, then this can be an awesome travel imaging scope when combined with a little pixel camera, be it a cooled CMOS or DSLR. Enormous field of view at a fast ratio and lightweight rig, making it easy for tracking. Bravo! I have a TS60 and the TS x0.79, otherwise I would have one of these without thinking about it for more than a second.
  17. Looks like you could choose a target and just continuously image for weeks on end and just discard the subs taken through the Earth!
  18. Looks much like a less substantial version of the JTW version, the Predator: http://www.jtwastronomy.com/products/predator.html
  19. If it is an open cluster, then there is not a great deal of benefit in a Luminance layer in my opinion. Anything else, yes, using L to get fainter areas of a glob, or any kind of galaxy detail, nebula etc, but pure stars on a dark background - stick with the unsaturated RGB and get some lovely colour in there as an RGB image.
  20. Binning also gets complicated when dealing with CMOS or CCD chips. CCDs can be binned at a hardware level, and given the noise characteristics, this can improve signal to noise ratios. With CMOS chips, it is different, in that most (maybe all, not sure) are software binned only. However, with the low noise of modern CMOS chips, the concern about this meaning binning with CMOS is pointless is lower, but it will not result in a better SNR as I understand things.
  21. Do Mak-Newts count? http://www.astroshop.eu/intesmicro-maksutov-newton-telescope-mn-152-1216-alter-mn68-ota/p,6563
  22. Astro cameras are cooled and as such have very different requirements from other industries and users of CCDs. In truth, it really isn't necessary to use grade 1 CCDs as the advantages for this particular use case simply are not there. The price differential is large as well. Check out Moravian G3 cameras for instance which offer grade 1 or grade 2 versions, and there is very little real world benefit from the 'better' sensor when used for astronomy. In this regard, grade 2 sensors are not rejects, just built to a different spec. As for the quality/price issue you speak of, what amateur astronomers have available to them these days is unprecedented in human history, but I have to grant you, in a small sample, so take that as purely my limited viewpoint, all of the people I know who have AVX mounts have a non trivial % of downtime because of issues.
  23. I wouldn't worry too much about hot pixels. As long as the number is a small % of overall, there are ways to get rid of them. If you are struggling with darks and/or DSS's hot pixel removal feature (from memory) isn't working, then there is always dithering/stacking or other stacking tools. Hot pixels/dead columns are a fact of life, most astronomy CCDs are grade 2 CCDs anyway which have a higher hot pixel % within the specs than the more expensive grade 1 CCD, so they should be expected, so dealing with them and other noise is a key part of AP.
  24. To be honest, as long as it is powered, you should be good. Stick with brands you already trust. And get one with more slots than you think you need
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