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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. Cheers Chris - Once the results came out from the first session, I was committed to a long one
  2. Thanks Chris - you should have seen my first attempts - persistence and some good advice and encouragement are the reason this worked out for me.
  3. Thanks Rob! I did think I may need a tilt adjuster, but thought it would just confuse matters as I had enough different factors to get right to start with, which is also why I went native FL even though I have a 0.67 reducer. I don't think I need one for how it is working as it stands, and given it works, I am very loathe to touch it now :). I have a baader diamond and the motorfocuser, but couldn't even work that out so focused manually with a bahtinov mask for this image, which is another factor in doing a single channel per session! This image has changed my plans to be honest, I was not expecting an F9 setup on an HEQ5 to be much use to me as a DSO setup. It was earmarked for photometry and spectroscopy work, I was just playing around to get everything collimated etc first. The Chroma filter was just being tested as well, that was earmarked for my AA115. Given it has managed this, I am not touching it and having it as a long FL rig :). I will move all the science plans to my Mewlon, which I have just bought the Tak reducer flattener for and will give that a go. Even longer FL for that one, at 1700 reduced though !!
  4. First real foray into long FL imaging. Many thanks to all those who helped me out in my voyage of discovery thread with advice and encouragement. This is final version - for a while at least! This is the often imaged Bubble Nebula in the Northern Skies. This was taken with my astro bargain of the decade Altair Astro RC6 at native F9 (1370 FL). Atik 414ex camera on the mighty HEQ5. I decided to really go for it for this image, so went for a complete night's session per channel and to get as much Ha data as I could stomach. HaRGB image. Baader RGB - 5 mins subs each. One session per channel ~ 60 subs each. Ha - Chroma 3nm - 38 x 20 mins subs - 3 sessions. 29 hours total! Processed in PixInsight in the end. I tried Photoshop, but my skills were just too rusty! Another day maybe...
  5. That last one does it for me too, that wispy section under the nose is awesomely done in your work here.
  6. Here is another version which takes the stars from the RGB and is more of a superposition rather than an LRGB combination. It allowed a bit more sharpness without crunching the nebula too much and also makes the image a bit brighter as a result as the stars are less soft. Still not quite right, but slow and steady and all that. Thanks for all the feedback, it really is appreciated. Astronomy and imaging in particular can be a bit of a lonely furrow... EDIT: (may be a bit too bright now i see it online!)
  7. I agree - pulling out sharp data from an oversampled image is tough. I am running at native focal length, a mighty F9, so long exposure times too, and haphazard guiding, so a softness is to be expected at < 1"/pixel I guess, but I still think I can do better. The stars in this are still a bit sucky, despite a better effort at the nebula itself. The Bubble looks nice, and I think it could be sharpened in a non-plastic way a bit further, but the stars could be significantly better. The Ha gives such great detail, but mixing that with RGB with stars about x10 the size is the challenge next methinks as there are halos and a lot of the star fuzziness comes from trying to fix that.
  8. Slowly but surely. Some deconvolution at the start brought out more detail and I am slowly getting the rest of the processing together. Stars are a bit meh in this version though. II think I need to tone down the range of the nebula a touch and to crispen up the stars, or at least, not have them messed up, which doing the LRGB has done.
  9. Also, focus can change as the temperature changes, so if you have an autofocuser, it can use the temperature sensor to either refocus or use preset focus moves dependent on temp changes.
  10. People often want to control the focuser with the hand controller for visual use to minimise vibrations, as using a PC when trying to do visual is a definite night vision kliller.
  11. Imaging with an 8" Newtonian is tough going for experienced astrophotographers, let alone ones just starting out. The smaller 130PDS is a brilliant choice, as are the small ED refractors, and there are a lot of extremely good options on the market these days, lots of them.
  12. OK. Some RGB to add to this. Had some pretty terrible artifacts in a couple of the channels, so cropped that out for now. Might have to redo them as they are big... Here is a first effort (first that I am going to post ) which uses the RGB with Ha added to the R. Feedback welcome. I have better data than I am showing here I feel, and having seen some of the lovely crisp details achieved by some photoshop processors on here, I am not sure my PI approach is cutting it at the moment...
  13. Ha dominates to such an extent in that nebula that it swamps the other NB signals, so it is always going to be a case of pushing Oiii and Sii hard in relation.
  14. When I did an RGB 4 panel mosaic, I found it easier to get a large mosaic of each channel first. This way you can get the mosaic created and balance the backgrounds for each set before combining. I also found it very difficult to match backgrounds once combined hence the channel by channel approach. More work, but better results for me.
  15. Yes, this was at a rather sedate F8. Yet to go down to the possible F3.5.
  16. Been a while since I picked this lens up from @Lockie - sorry its taken so long to use it properly. Quick test with a rather battered 450d on a StarAdventurer last night. The double cluster and Perseus area. This lens fits in a vast area of sky, and is pretty sharp across whole field of view. Pretty awesome for a lens which has seen more life than most living beings! Once I get some better framing opportunities and nice nights, this should produce some cracking images. 20 x 2 mins. Scaled down to a sensible jpg size, so original is much crisper actually.
  17. Image is pretty flat, with some slight curvature at the edges, mainly the left and lower hand side. I suggest, as others have, that the less than round are from tracking/guiding drift.
  18. Methinks that gathering data on an imaging run is pretty boring. Setting up, fiddling with everything is fun and a challenge, but the run itself is simply about gathering data, nothing more and once running, I want as little to do with it as possible. The real fun comes in after the data is gathered. Olly used the word mechanical, and I completely agree. Not touching it and being as far away unless something goes wrong is my imaging default position. I have a dob for enjoying the night sky, and set that up as far away from the imaging setup as I can. VNC/teamcity are great ways of keeping tabs without bumping into things just to check that guiding is still working...
  19. I have PixInsight and Photoshop. I fear another imaging program may cause my consciousness to implode! Here is a Photoshop version. Wow am I rusty with this. I managed another 4 hours (12 subs) last week, of dubious worth but data is data for me at the moment. I think the bright bits of nebula are coming on at the expense of the not so bright. In what was a surprise, it is easier to minimize the impact of processing on stars in PS. Maybe a dual PS/PI future does await me...
  20. Nice report. I have this scope and think it is excellent too. I haven't had lots of opportunity, but it has delivered in both imaging and visual so far. Glad you are as happy with yours as I am with mine.
  21. Some lightweight rings and bar should be fine, weight wise. If your scope is anything like the ST80, it is light. Attaching the rings directly to the rings of the 130pds is an option to save a bit of weight as an option, although a bar across the top of both 130pds rings is significantly more secure and flex free.
  22. I want to set up a semi permanent garden rig. I can't put a permanent pier in, as the site is above a septic tank, so I am after setting up a tripod based rig and leaving for a few days at a time. Given it is a grass installation, and this is an HEQ5 based setup, would the standard tripod be ok? I have a feeling the tripod would sink into the ground on its own over time, and also wondered if the HEQ5 pier would be a better bet? All ideas welcome. Cheers Matt
  23. This thread is a literal eye opener. I absolutely had this down as a camera only object, given my experience of observing being strictly limited to tens of miles around London and hardly seeing any nebula, ever. Thank you.
  24. I know a labour of love when I see one. Excellent work.
  25. Thanks all. Had a decent session with it after the original post and things looking pretty ok, although I manually focused with a mask. ST80s rock. Might not need a tilt adaptor with my tiny 414ex. Probably would with a larger chip.
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