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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. From what I understand, there is quite a bit of solar observing done there, so that makes it pretty easy to place masts without impacting the observations.
  2. Whilst scanning the mountains from my new house in France with some binoculars, I noticed something glinting in the far distance. I set up my AA115 on the front stairs and lo and behold! Seems like a road trip is on the cards soon - The Pic du Midi observatory.
  3. Hi Rob, bit late to this, but I have the AzEQ6 as well and it is quieter than the HEQ5 I had before I did the belt mod, and compared to some AVXs I know, it is much quieter - more a high pitched whine as opposed to the gear crunch. I wouldn't lug one with a C8 attached very far though. Its manageable I reckon, but awkward. Get it set up in Az mode and do EAA with the RC and visual with the C8!
  4. If you are happy for it to be almost at ground level, I found the Berlebach mini to be perfect for mine. I think it would find it tricky to buy a scope with just a tripod and if you could, it would limit your scope choices hugely, so I bought the pieces all separately.
  5. No-one has mentioned the Gemini ones yet: http://www.geminitelescope.com/robotic-observatory-telescope/ Matt
  6. Agreed on getting the calcs right, my initial thoughts come from a caravan power consumption online calculator :). You have made my original dilemma harder though by removing what I thought would be an additional complication in having the roof only move though...
  7. Sounds very doable then with both options - 10 Batteries? What power are they and did you calculate it or just go BIG? I was thinking heavy duty 100Ah+ ones and possibly 3 of them for a 2 pier setup according to my very crude napkin calcs and an equivalent 3 175W panels...
  8. Hi All, I now have the ability and chance to create myself a permanent installation after years of setting up and tearing down. I have a section of garden which is not too tree obscured and while it is far enough away to be dark, it is also too far away for electricity, so thinking of solar powered and battery operated. However, my big question is roll off or roll away. Space is not a huge concern and I am planning on 2 piers, or a pier and space for a heavy tripod based setup. In a rollaway, everything is rather straight forward it seems and all the panels on the roof/batteries etc simply move with the shed, so nothing complex for a DIY novice, which I most assuredly am. What advantages does a roll off roof give over a full roll away setup, and is wind protection really that important and done well by a roll off roof anyway? Cheers Matt
  9. Original image in this thread seemed far too bright once uploaded, so here is a muted version
  10. Little village called Saman, down the south west of Haute-Garonne.
  11. Finally managed to get a couple of hours at my new house in the south of France with my newly arrived kit from storage. Had to dust off more than just the equipment, very rusty at all this! Couple of hours with my new (to me anyway) Atik 460ex, on my relatively new AA115, with a very new reducer and a very new Chroma 3nm Ha filter. Had to change guider, as a filter wheel didn't do well in storage, so using an old ST80 and seems I have some flex in these images, but as I said - rusty! The skies here are a delight compared to Essex, and I have a lot of trees to dodge, but here is the provisional quick process result of 2 hours of 20 min subs: AA115, Atik 460ex, Chroma 3nm Ha - 6 x 20mins.
  12. Looking at it on a webpage now it has been uploaded, I have a feeling another go is in order
  13. Here is an iTelescope effort of Caldwell 19. Telescope T5. The SBIG camera has no anti blooming, so it bled all over this one in Lum, so had to do some L patching with the RGB data. Quite a fun processing exercise, albeit to the detriment of the final image. I am sure this is not to everyone's taste, but here it is. I am not altogether convinced I like using reflectors with spider veins for imaging. I like the diffraction spikes on bright stars, but it makes all the little ones a little blocky for me.
  14. I found that binning RGB with my 414ex never seemed to work well either, albeit at a shorter focal length than you. This is a fine effort though all the same and you have avoided the temptation to push the colours, which is nice. I really struggled when I had a go at this target.
  15. I don't think avoiding using darks is an option for you, given the ASI1600 amp glow you get in the right (same as my ASI1600), so it is a question of getting them right, which can be done. I had a play with the images you posted and can see some diagonal bottom left to middle right type dark lines in the darker areas but I tried various levels of aggression in stacking pixel rejection (used a Linear Fit approach in PixInsight with various rejection settings ) and found that this helped a lot. I would also recommend not binning in future, as I found it does not help with this CMOS, and the only benefit is reduced file sizes. With the short focal lengths on your Star71 and the mini pixels of this camera, you are imaging at 5-6 "/pixel when binning, which ends up with blocky stars and no real benefit I found, which may also we contributing to the artifacts. I use a reduced TS60 which is similar in FL and binning was an experiment I did once, and decided never to do so again.
  16. Been so long since I used my kit in anger, and only have my little TS60ED to hand at the moment from a town center location. With the ASI at unity, anything over 40 seconds was saturated with the Moon out as well, so far from ideal conditions. 50 blasted out 30 second R,G,B subs though. Just glad to be back out there!!
  17. 3ms is not going to result in a whole lot of light captured per frame. What kind of image of the pulsar do you want to get?
  18. CCD OSC cameras are still CCD cameras and can perfectly happily hardware bin just like mono ones. You just end up limiting the total light falling on the binned pixel because of the matrix. CMOS chips - different matter altogether.
  19. One consideration is how will you control it all in that dithering is going to be extremely tricky unless you just don't dither, just guide and take images independently.
  20. A surprise 800 for a totally unneeded astro luxury would be the Primaluce Eagle, so I could setup up way quicker and simply attach a battery to a setup and be done with it and not leave my laptop outside
  21. Agree with Freddie. Hyperstar is not a planetary bit of kit, more a tough DSO ask. As for camera choice, the DVDs will make things a lot clearer in terms of what you need for that kind of imaging. Matt
  22. The other consideration is the finding and retaining of a guide star. Fast short focal length scopes end up with wide fields of view with plenty of stars. Not so with longer focal length slower scopes.
  23. Hi Chris, I am going to find this far too hard to turn down. I'm in. PM sent. Matt
  24. For the Solar System high resolution goals you stated, I would be more inclined to watch the Damian Peach DVDs rather than read Every Photon Counts as the latter is a DSO imaging intro, the former aimed around planetary imaging. Kit wise, you will need a sturdy EQ and a large aperture, long focal length system. Given the location, you would not go wrong with a C11 (Edge or not, don't think it would matter a great deal) and the new Skywatcher EQ6-Pro, which can be used down to 5degree latitude, which is important, as some mounts can't go that low. A camera would need to be a fast framerate USB3 camera, and there are many to choose from - ZWO and the Altair ones are very nice. For Solar - hmm, different kettle of fish. Expensive as well, but a Quark and a piggybacked refractor along the lines Charl mentioned would work very well and not blow the budget.
  25. I have the ZWO filter wheel and have both Baader LRGB and the ZWO LRGB filter sets and I don't worry about which filters I use in a given setup. I prefer the ZWO 7 pos filter wheel to my SX one. Lighter, thinner, quieter and more reliable.
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