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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. I love the AltAz bonus of the AzEQ6 when it comes to observing, especially for non fixed locations as you don't need to polar align. You could mount both C9.25 and 80ED as a treat.
  2. I can't remember if the focuser was too far out or required extensions. I suspect it is too far out and that you either need to push the main mirror forwards to push the focus point further out of the focus tube or try and get a low profile focuser, or move the dslt closer in somehow.
  3. I had this very scope as my first scope and it was tricky to get working well in terms of aligning and keeping on target. As mentioned above, you need to align the red dot finder during the day to make sure it is any use at all. Once that is working, it solved the initial find the object issue. After that, you are into the world of equatorial mount alignment. Before you start observing, you need to align the mount to point along the earth's rotational axis (polar alingment). This only has the be done roughly for visual with this scoipe, but without doing this, then keeping the object in view is going to be frustrating. Once aligned roughly, then all that is needed is to use the RA slow mo to track the object, which helps enormously. For this scope, the 10mm eyepiece is no where near as good as the 20mm, so a decent 8-12mm EP is well worth it (more so than a 4mm in my view). I also got a 28mm for the scope to help with targeting and finding. The best bang for buck for this scope though is a Telrad.
  4. If you want to stick with CCD as opposed to a CMOS camera, I would be tempted to go with a larger FOV and use a 8300 chip (Atik 383 or Moravian equivalent) as there are some very large nebula objects out there.... For galaxies, you are not losing significant resolution in terms of arc/pixel either. +1 for SX filter wheels.
  5. I have set up my imaging kit a few times recently and left set up during the day with a cover over it, but the summer days are rather hot and the temp under the cover is still very high. Would people recommend a full teardown during these hot 30+ degree days?
  6. First real outing of my second hand Atik 460ex. It struggled rather a lot on cooling, but knew that when I bought it. Managed a set of images against M11, a set of RGB 2 min subs. Cropped image down to frame better and despite some column defects, this camera is performing very nicely. Will potentially need to always dither which might impact my longer term dual rig ambitions, but for now, just glad to get under some clear skies and to dust off my capturing skills and use my own kit. AA115, Atik 460ex, AzEQ6. Guided. RGB, 2mins, ~20 subs each.
  7. Good choices. My HEQ5 is still turning slowly and accurately after years of excellent service.
  8. there is something there, so i think you are on the right track with masking out the stars. i am not a photoshop guy, but applying the stetching to midrange only, excluding touching the close to or saturated stars would allow you to push the nebula in isolation from the starfield.
  9. for bright deep space objects, I would use a cmos based camera and take multiple 5-10 second exposures (as in hundreds of them) and track as best you can. you can then align and trim the edges and you should be able to get something to be happy with.
  10. If you get the filter wheel oriented so the filter surface is closest to the camera side and attach the ASI1600 right up to the filter wheel, then 1.25" filters are absolutely fine. I have used Baader LRGB + NB filters, a Chroma 3nm Ha 1.25 filters and ZWO's own and see precious little vignetting from any of them. The ZWO filter wheel has the filter surface pretty close to the thread so works well, the SX wheel I have is a little further away, so I use the ZWO one exclusively with the ASI1600 now. And to be honest, even if I had noticeable vignetting, it normally processes out really easily. For a £50 difference in the current LRGBHa bundles on FLO (or £100 for the full NB set), its not a major issue either way so you won't be making a mistake choosing one over the other, unless you want to buy 3nm filters
  11. if you find that your imaging time without the filter is being saturated with andromeda light, then just take lots of shorter exposures of strong andromeda signal images without the filter. if, however, the background is being saturated without the filter, keep the filter in.
  12. how about longer focal length/smaller aperture newtonians for a real wallet saver?
  13. Feels a bit like cheating, but this is a southern hemisphere object and I get no time with my own telescopes because of work commitments at the moment anyway. Its a good chance to play with some data and keep those processing skills from totally rusting over while circumstance forces my own kit to gather dust not photons. Our southern colleagues are truly blessed with some awesome objects. iTelescope T9 in Siding Springs. 12 hours exposure time. LRGB. PixInsight.
  14. Thanks guys. I have missed my astronomy, although as I have heard many times on this forum, the stars will still be there when one does get the chances to look up!
  15. Feels like an eternity since I posted last, had an enforced break from astronomy due to work and travel commitments, but finally managed to get round to pulling a summers effort off the data gathering setup to process to see where I have gotten with with this target. I have always wanted to image this and do it justice, so no half measures, and this is just 1 filter of what will eventually be a 2 panel mosaic (I hope), so here is what I have to date. I also hope my imaging time will be more this year now I am a bit more settled. The Veil. no introduction needed for this target. TS60ED. ASI1600. Chroma Ha nm. AzEQ6: 75 x 5 mins, all maunged in PixInsight.
  16. Agreed. Its also how you use it. Fully extended legs in windy places is a different proposition from low down to the floor in a sheltered spot. This particular tripod is so tiny and the way I use it means that it easily holds my payloads. As you suggest, mileage for others may vary considerably.
  17. Mine handles more than 8kg. SA, dovetail, counterbalance and the rig above is more than 8kg and it is solid in all manner of heights and configurations. Not sure about actual max though.
  18. I have the old version and the x0.79 reducer as well. I screw reducer directly into the end of the focuser and certainly don't use an extension, as the focuser is racked right in on the focuser as it is! If you are struggling, you could try inserting the reducer into the focuser as opposed to screwing in the end. This is less secure I found, but it means you can push it in further if it doesn't quite reach focus.
  19. Been about 3-4 months since I got my equipment out sadly, given work commitments, weather and circumstance. Managed a dusting off of some of the kit for a Moon shot on Saturday before the haze kicked in. 4 panel mosaic using AA115, ASI1600 and a TV x4. Vastly higher resolution image than can show here, as you all know! Just happy to be out and got something!
  20. Yes, playing with all the settings, and it eventually worked with default USB traffic settings, and then didn't work with the same ones 30 mins later. Will ask vendor.
  21. Hi Vlaiv, no disconnect noise, camera still connected in SharpCap, PHD2, SGP (whichever program I test with), just no frames. In FireCapture it says "Capture Failed". Think I will drop FLO a note on Monday and see what they say.
  22. Surprised you have the time Ian with all your projects!! Blizzard dodging does sound rather ferocious. Thanks for all the positive feedback, looking forward to more of this...
  23. First light with my new ASI178MM with my single stacked Lunt 50. Full disk in a single frame. Lots of problems with the camera, which is another story and a LOT of learning ahead of me, but here is effort #1 of hopefully many improving ones! Isn't solar imaging so much more civilized than night time astrophotography
  24. I recently acquired an ASI 178MM (non cooled) and seem to have a bit of a problem. I have managed to get it connected, but often, it will simply not download frames. It just sits there. I have an ASI1600Cool and that works first time, every time, but this 178MM is far more precocious. Just as I am about to pack it up and send back, it comes to life and behaves perfectly normally with fast framerates etc . I have swapped USB3 cables and same result, reinstalled all the drivers, same result. I think I just want confirmation that I am not missing something daft and that I should send it back for appraisal by a professional!
  25. You are pretty much there. If you are confident that your newt setup has no focus difference between filters, then you can always do L,L,R,G,B,L,L,R,G,B... or something along those lines and dither every cycle or something like that. That way you can be sure to have something by the end, as opposed to the soul destroying L, R, G and no Blue for 2 weeks because of the weather
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