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Peje

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

196 Excellent

2 Followers

About Peje

  • Rank
    Proto Star

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.petelawrence.space
  • Skype
    pete.lawrence1873

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Photography
    MotoGP
  • Location
    Lisburn, UK.
  1. Exactly my thoughts. While writing my last reply I was thinking 'Screw this, I'll design my own and release the 3D CAD onto the forum so anyone can have them made'. Then the reality of how this conversation started struck me, I don't have time to work on my own mount; nevermind design parts.
  2. Ok, let me qualify my opinion; I am / was a mechanical engineer, designing things like this and getting them manufactured was my day job. This is a fairly simple part to design, I would guess it would 2, maybe 3 spins, in a 3D printer to get it spot on; for the average mechanical engineer. I reckon most of that trial and error would be the screw angle and a perhaps the fillets around the back neck. I would have done this as a single part, the one in the link looks to be two piece. One spun on a lathe, the other CNC machined; it is late so perhaps I'm wrong about that. I'm just going off the machining marks. In terms of manufacturing, to get a single part this wouldn't be expensive as a local machine shop would be able to fit this into the scrapage volume of another order. Pick a small, local business and talk to the owner or workshop director; dont pressure them for time or cost and they will be good to you. You will likely get the part for very little money or even just a case of beer / bottle of whiskey. I have done this many times, admittedly not for CNC, mainly waterjet / laser cut sheet metal folded parts. Perhaps you meant it figuratively but the risks do not risk exponentially, they will rise linearly each time you adjust the mount. Pete
  3. My objection is how much they are charging for something that costs very little to make and didn't take significant investment to design. That part is almost 15% of the price of the entire mount, they are clearly taking advantage of the astro community who have nowhere else to get it. That's just my opinion, you may feel differently. I'm fortunate that I run on a pier so mine get a adjusted once a year, if even.
  4. Thanks for sharing. Not a chance I'll be buying it, it's a complete rip-off.
  5. Can you share more info on the modern astronomy rail mod?
  6. I've finally accepted the fact that I'll never have time to service / belt mod my mount so I'm going to get a local telescope expert to do it. I'm trying to find out what parts I could / should be ordering, My initial list looks like: - Rowan Belt Mod kit with bearing puller. - Spare Belts - Upgraded Grease - Mount casing 're-profile' to give more clearance for belts. - Super / Hyper-tuning [This Astro-baby guide seems like a good place to start] Is there anything else worth doing? Thanks in advance, Pete.
  7. They list a driver on their website to do exactly that. http://www.mcdougalltech.com/page8/page8.html
  8. Very cool, I've dropped them an email to see if they support pulling a live stream over RTSP.
  9. Yes, this was my primary desire. I used to have 4 separate cameras but a fisheye made more sense. It just seems that with such good resolution I could be doing something more with it.
  10. This week I knocked up an all sky camera, it's basically a 12MP Fisheye camera inside a waterproof box. It seems to give a reasonable picture, not amazing but I do have the option to drop back to a 5MP variant which features larger pixels... but that's not something I'm too worried bout right now. My problems is that all of the software I can find to analyse video seems to want either frames grabbed from an analogue source or a USB camera. It seems strange that IP cameras haven't broken into this area since they are so readily available. Does anyone know of software to utilise live video, probably over RTSP in either MJPEG or h.264, to do something Astro related? I'm thinking: - Meteors - Aurora - Lightening Anything else? Thanks in advance, Pete
  11. Peje

    Strange Flats

    The ND Film arrived and works well with two sheets, my slight issue is the times for my LRGB are wildly different to my NB. I'd imagine this is because my LED panel favours the Blue and Green LED's. *** 1x1 *** Ha 33 Sii over 1min (too long to do) Oiii 9.2 L 0.4 R 3.1 G 0.85 B 0.75 *** 2x2 *** R 0.8 G 0.22 B 0.195 After things about it in work, anything longer than about 0.01 (1/100s) will not be able to capture LED flicker. I think my only option, other than to replace the panel, is to fit only one sheet permanently and add either one or two sheets when I need LRGB flats. Now back to some more testing!
  12. I gave in to temptation and stacked 11x600s with the Baader CC then 9x600s with the Skywatcher. The image below is just a stack of calibrated lights, no processing. I was surprised that the detail increase is a little more subtle than I expected, but the star size reducion has been really impressive. Also, the star shape seems to have dramatically improved. Bloated stars were the main thing that displeased me in my images so I'm really happy that this very simple change has made such a difference. Now I just need some clear sky to start capturing some nice data
  13. Peje

    Strange Flats

    Yes, both captured with same software (SG Pro) and using same PC. All my gear is permanently mounted in a shed of it's own.
  14. Peje

    Strange Flats

    Had to take my time over this one Q: Is the gradient seen in the flats aligned perfectly left-to-right as seen at the camera when the long axis of the sensor is aligned exactly with the long axis of the OTA A: No, I am seeing a slope, perhaps about 30degrees. I am using laser collimators so it is quite possible this is introducing a gradient as you suggest. Q: When you did the ‘tee-shirt’ flats where these sky flats or were you still working in the shed with the LED panel? A: Both; I firstly used the sky, then used my flats panel sitting on the far wall so as not to create shadows. I didn't notice any difference between the two. Q: this may be due to relections caused by insufficient blackening of the focuser port, focuser draw tube and all the mechanical couplers etc used to attach the camera to the focuser. {OK, this is not a question but I like uniformity!} A: This is proably going to be more of an issue for me now as I've noticed my new CC is pushing my LP filter down into the main tube. I'm hesitant to paint it but I don't think I'll have much choice. Q: Some of the Skywatcher models I have seen don’t seem to use a ‘black’ baffling paint, more like ‘dark grey’ {Again, not a question} A: Yes, the inside of the tube is dark grey, I do have matt black paint that I used for the Moonlite focuser bolts as they came silver. I like your idea of testing using flocking, I think I still have a few A4 sheets lying around. Ultimately, if my flats are representative and effective then I'm happy with that. My main other concern is what effects my LP filter protruding into my tube may cause.
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