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About Peje

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    Proto Star

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    Lisburn, UK.
  1. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    I was considering swapping the bungee cords for the small chain above with carrabiner clips on the end but will rethink on lynch pins. I think the weatherboard and 2x2 are treated by default but ive treated the outside with Ronseal stuff.
  2. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    My setup time previously was sub 5mins, the main frustration was that when removing / refitting the OTA my focuser would always bump out of position so I needed to refocus manually to a point where SG Pro could take over. Cabling was fairly straight-forward but even that could give issues from time to time. Currently the base is bolted down with 8x 100mm concrete bolts, the shed is held to this via two hasp & staples but for severe weather I am going to add a couple of small chains to go from the central frame to the pier since it has some hole pre-drilled in it I can hook onto.
  3. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    Thanks Jim. I'm really hopeful it's going to make life much easier this winter. Hoping to do some drift alignment tonight... if I can drag myself out of bed at 2am!
  4. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    Thanks for all the advice, I managed to knock the shed up over the last couple of weeks... in seriously hot weather! I went for ventilated and stole the idea from Ray which was to have gaps around the roof and floor to let air move in and out. I've had the roof on since last weekend and the shed is holding virtually no heat over ambient, even in direct sunlight. Full step by step on my website: http://petelawrence.co.uk/view.php?page=125
  5. Peje

    Unistellar eVscope

    Just read it, makes me even more eager to get one of these ordered.
  6. Peje

    Greetings from sunny Northern Ireland!

    Welcome to the forum, no better place for you to ask questions and get advice from people who are interesting in helping you. It's where I learnt almost everything I know!!
  7. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    Thanks. Insulating the walls should be easy enough, polystyrene sheets inside the cavity. The same for the roof, I'm going to do a felt style roof. I'll have a think about how to ventilate, the shed won't be fully sealed as it will have double doors but I accept your point about damp. My main shed doesn't get damp because it has about 500w of electronics running 24-7 so this generates some nice warm dry air
  8. Peje

    Pier Shed - Sealed or Ventilated?

    Thanks Ray. Can you elaborate on vented but insulated? Vents from inside to outside, double skinned wall, vents just into wall cavity, etc.
  9. As title, I'm currently building a removable shed around my pier. The plan is this will hold all of my gear, with the OTA & imaging train permanently mounted. The PC and other electrical kit will be inside a wooden unit I created with a lid to keep it warm in winter / cold in summer (closed for the former, open for the latter). I've been trying to figure out what I should do regarding ventilation. Option 1: Seal it up I can make everything fairly well sealed using brush strips and p-seal. Pro: The shed should stay very dry, protecting my electronics. Con: The shed will heat up during the day, especially in spring/summer. I can mitigate this somewhat by adding an internal skin to form a cavity for insulation. Option 2: Ventilate I can add 100x100mm insect meshed vents, probably around the top of the sides. Pro: The internal temperature in the shed should be very similar to outside, this will reduce cool down time required. Con: The humidity inside the shed will match outside conditions, I'm concerned if this will affect my CCD / USB Filter Wheel. I'm leaning towards option 1 as it is probably safest for my CCD. I'd really appreciate some other opinions. Pete.
  10. I have fiddled nd fiddled but I cannot make it do what you did... could you give me a step by step? EDIT: Not sure this is exactly what I'm trying to do. What I want is to copy a star (Dwarf Planet Ceres) from a sub, into a stacked image in exactly the same place as it was in the original sub. All images are aligned so perhaps I need to do something with Pixelmath and coordinates... another thing I don't know how to do!
  11. I generally don't have much trouble with star masks, I was mutlitasking earlier so wasn't focusing properly. I should have just used binarise and then used convolution to soften the edges
  12. I had a little fiddle on my lunch break today and while I was failing miserable at getting a mask to cover just the larger stars (probably due to doing two things at once), I was able to just use one of my 'normal' starmasks to just give the image a slight stretch (some small / middle stars coming up), then remove that mask and stretch as normal. Screen shot attached. Whilst this isn't life changing, it is an improvement. I am using my worst data on purpose as it should exagerate any changes I make.
  13. Thanks William, it's well out of warranty. I also think I recall seeing it wasn't adjustable. I guess I will just have to save some pennies and orser the one SW designed to match the Quattro. Do you think this is also causing my soft focus or would that be a separate issue? Or potentially you can't tell as the images dont have enough stars. Thanks for your help. Pete
  14. @Oddsocks I've added a few more subs to that folder. I took three without the CC and am taking another 3 with the CC refitted. I don't notice a huge difference (other than the lack of coma) on regular stars and only a slight drop off of the diff spikes with the CC fitted. Does your eye see anything of interest? Probably worth noting some haze blew in while I was refitting the CC. I typically focus using a bahtinov mask first then let SG Pro run it's auto-focus routine while I watch, it used HFR instead of FWHM. There is the option to use FWHM but the user manual says HFR is generally the most accurate. I would be open to switching to FWHM but to be honest I think there's little to be gained. Assuming my issue isn't the CC, I almost always collimate before starting a target so I would expect that to be good. In terms of collimation, I centered the secondary under the focuser at the start of the season and I use a hotech laser collimator to get the primary and secondary well lined up. I find that my Quattro holds collimation very well across temperature and general pointing position. One thing my system does suffer from is a bit of tilt in the imaging train, I'm hoping to cure that this summer with some tactically placed black tape to tighten up the fit of my 2" adaptor in the focuser tube. On the masking, it all sounds reasonable. I spent quite a lot of time last year learning how to tune starmasks, mainly using the mask controls at the bottom, so making nice tight masks is fine. Going to give your method a whirl someday next week on my lunch.
  15. Thanks William, I have removed the CC so hopefully will get some testing done tonight. The rest of the info sounds great, I look forward to trying it

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