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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. Thanks guys. I have missed my astronomy, although as I have heard many times on this forum, the stars will still be there when one does get the chances to look up!
  2. Feels like an eternity since I posted last, had an enforced break from astronomy due to work and travel commitments, but finally managed to get round to pulling a summers effort off the data gathering setup to process to see where I have gotten with with this target. I have always wanted to image this and do it justice, so no half measures, and this is just 1 filter of what will eventually be a 2 panel mosaic (I hope), so here is what I have to date. I also hope my imaging time will be more this year now I am a bit more settled. The Veil. no introduction needed for this target. TS60ED. ASI1600. Chroma Ha nm. AzEQ6: 75 x 5 mins, all maunged in PixInsight.
  3. Agreed. Its also how you use it. Fully extended legs in windy places is a different proposition from low down to the floor in a sheltered spot. This particular tripod is so tiny and the way I use it means that it easily holds my payloads. As you suggest, mileage for others may vary considerably.
  4. Mine handles more than 8kg. SA, dovetail, counterbalance and the rig above is more than 8kg and it is solid in all manner of heights and configurations. Not sure about actual max though.
  5. I have the old version and the x0.79 reducer as well. I screw reducer directly into the end of the focuser and certainly don't use an extension, as the focuser is racked right in on the focuser as it is! If you are struggling, you could try inserting the reducer into the focuser as opposed to screwing in the end. This is less secure I found, but it means you can push it in further if it doesn't quite reach focus.
  6. Been about 3-4 months since I got my equipment out sadly, given work commitments, weather and circumstance. Managed a dusting off of some of the kit for a Moon shot on Saturday before the haze kicked in. 4 panel mosaic using AA115, ASI1600 and a TV x4. Vastly higher resolution image than can show here, as you all know! Just happy to be out and got something!
  7. Yes, playing with all the settings, and it eventually worked with default USB traffic settings, and then didn't work with the same ones 30 mins later. Will ask vendor.
  8. Hi Vlaiv, no disconnect noise, camera still connected in SharpCap, PHD2, SGP (whichever program I test with), just no frames. In FireCapture it says "Capture Failed". Think I will drop FLO a note on Monday and see what they say.
  9. Surprised you have the time Ian with all your projects!! Blizzard dodging does sound rather ferocious. Thanks for all the positive feedback, looking forward to more of this...
  10. First light with my new ASI178MM with my single stacked Lunt 50. Full disk in a single frame. Lots of problems with the camera, which is another story and a LOT of learning ahead of me, but here is effort #1 of hopefully many improving ones! Isn't solar imaging so much more civilized than night time astrophotography
  11. I recently acquired an ASI 178MM (non cooled) and seem to have a bit of a problem. I have managed to get it connected, but often, it will simply not download frames. It just sits there. I have an ASI1600Cool and that works first time, every time, but this 178MM is far more precocious. Just as I am about to pack it up and send back, it comes to life and behaves perfectly normally with fast framerates etc . I have swapped USB3 cables and same result, reinstalled all the drivers, same result. I think I just want confirmation that I am not missing something daft and that I should send it back for appraisal by a professional!
  12. You are pretty much there. If you are confident that your newt setup has no focus difference between filters, then you can always do L,L,R,G,B,L,L,R,G,B... or something along those lines and dither every cycle or something like that. That way you can be sure to have something by the end, as opposed to the soul destroying L, R, G and no Blue for 2 weeks because of the weather
  13. That camera will make a decent planetary imaging setup with your scope, but I wouldn't think too hard about doing DSOs with it. It can be utilized as a very decent guiding camera once you make the move to DSOs, but you should get a lot of joy and fun out of that camera with your Mak for planetary, lunar etc.
  14. The star core holes are usually as a result of HDRMultscaleTransform operations. A simple star mask to protect bright star cores is the solution for this one...
  15. There always seems to be a little play in the place where a Canon fit locks into the T-Adaptor for the DSLR. For imaging, it has the potential to move as the imaging train tracks, and also move if the scope/lens gets buffeted by wind. You can get away with it most of the time though I have found. Baader do a decent T-ring which seems to be tighter than cheaper alternatives, but still the movement is there if you wiggle the lens. Using it for guiding may make it worse, but that completely depends on the various image scales of the guiding versus main imaging setups. I have added tape on both sides before, once locked in, to try and add some resistance to movement to my system when using a setup like this.
  16. Its like one of these : http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/baader-v-dovetail-clamp-70mm.html
  17. If the light beams enter the scopes perfectly parallel to the pointing of the scopes, then I would have thought that it makes no difference if that system is one single scope, or multiple smaller scopes all perfectly parallel with one another. Light from stars arrives in parallel beams, so unless we are talking about extreme widefield, where projection of the curvature of the celestial sphere comes into play, I would have thought they are completely interchangeable.
  18. The holes in the stars are processing artifacts from the stacking. You need to have a play about with the stacking/processing parameters to avoid getting those. Welcome to the wonderful world of data processing...
  19. I used the one from ModernAstronomy: http://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/accessories/polemaster-adapter-for-star-adventurer/
  20. I have a polemaster, so PA is pretty good after doing that. Also, with short exposures, it doesn't really matter if it drifts slowly, natural dither,albeit during subs as well
  21. The first 2 images are with the TS60, the second 2 are a 50mm prime lens. As for guiding, I don't bother. The Andromeda image for example. Taken from Kelling, a campsite in East England. 360 x 30 second exposures for Luminance. 90 x 10 second exposures for each RGB. That is all that is needed. Unguided can achieve that, as you don't need long subs on bright targets, especially with a fast system and a sensitive CMOS camera.
  22. Thanks. The tripod is a bit of an extravagance, but I really liked it, having struggled with a cheap and cheerful eBay special before getting it. https://www.berlebach.de/?bereich=details&id=249&sprache=english
  23. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p7275_TS-Optics-Photoline-60mm-f-5-5-FPL53-Apo---2--R-P-Focuser.html I also have the reducer, so it comes down to 260mm FL at F4.3 which is pretty quick and useful for the short exposure times I use with the ASI1600.
  24. Missed this thread till now. Shame on me. Some awesome work being done with this little mount. I have not had my SA out for a while after a house move, but here are some of the images managed over the last 18 months with it, all unguided with both scope setup and a Canon 450d/50mm lens. Also showing off the mono rig on a Berlebach tripod to keep the whole thing low and out of the wind.
  25. I also have the full SA setup and have managed to use it successfully with a DSLR and various lenses and also a full mono imaging setup with a TS60 scope, motorfocuser, full SX filter wheel and an ASI1600. If you have a fast imaging system, then you can ignore guiding, like I have done and never tried. I did 2 mins with a DSLR and a 50mm lens and 30 second exposures with the imaging rig, at 260mm FL. I attached a polemaster connector to the dovetail bar, as I already had a polemaster and using this for PA is much easier than contorting to look through the polarscope. A decent tripod is a must though, as this will kind of make up for the crude wedge, which is the wobbliest bit of my setup.
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