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MattJenko

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Everything posted by MattJenko

  1. You can remove ini files using the EQMOD tools as well, as well as back them up/restore etc if you don't want to root around in filesystems deleting stuff manually.
  2. When I was in the area I was a member of the North Essex Astro Society and have to say it was an extremely positive experience. Helped out with some outreach observing nights at local schools, helped with some public outreach observing events at a local reservoir with Essex Wildlife Trust and various solar viewing days at local events. There is a weekly club night at the society's observatory dome where people are more than welcome to bring own scopes as well, be it beginners or more advanced imagers and to be honest, with the monthly talks etc, there was more being organised than I could attend. Seems like a bit of research into the local options for societies is in order, and I was one of the lucky ones, but from my experience, a good one is more than worth it.
  3. Seems to be in the calibrated Lum subs I got from iTelesceope. There appears to be a similar effect on the Glob itself with a faint light shadow under the glob center itself. Would love to get a chance to see this with my own eyes. Thanks Rob, long time, and yes, although I would prefer some of my own subs, despite the ones from iTelescope being rather nice! That FLI 16800 chip really makes my little Atik feel a little inferior...
  4. Bit of iTelescope action - 4 hours LRGB on T32. 3 min L subs and 60 sec RGB.
  5. The 130pds is a stocky little thing, I would worry more about the ED80 (which I once very happily owned for a few years) than the little newt.
  6. Nicely done, nothing simple about imaging with a C11!
  7. Bit left field, but how about a fully loaded Explorer 130PDS. Proven amazing little scope, 650mm FL, works wonderfully on your HEQ5 and because the OTA is cheap so you could splash out on awesome focuser and dew heaters etc etc.
  8. When you attach your 450D, you are in effect using the 150PDS as the lens, you wouldn't attach another. If you did, you would end up in a world of distortion and pain as you try and focus the camera on the focal point of the telescope - don't do it, let alone the issues in trying to attach it all together. Because you are using the scope as a prime lens, the focal length is fixed, as is the aperture, so the DSLR options you have are ISO setting. This is always good for some debate, but you want to keep it as low as you can. I have a 450d as well, and found that 400 or 800 is the best compromise between sensitivity and image crushing noise. The field of view you have is also fixed, which makes finding objects to frame actually very easy, just look at astronomy.tools and choose objects and see how they might fit. I actually think the Skywatcher coma corrector is a x0.9 reducer as well, so the real field of view might be bigger, but this will be close enough.
  9. I have a 180 and would love to see what an increase in aperture can do, but have a feeling this won't be around for long. Best telescope name ever.
  10. Alpy 600. Time is very short for lovely images at the moment but my desire to give something back in the form of useful observations is growing...
  11. My dual setup. Bit different in that I don't image with both at same time, but both can act as either the guider or the main imager so it is a flexible setup in that depending on what I want to image, I can use either. I have subsequently added an Eagle controller, so the whole thing can just be put on the mount and plugged in. AA115 with Atik 414ex and TS60ED with ASI1600.
  12. I actually found @kirkster501 's youtube tutorials on RC collimation really useful for my little RC6. Youtube RC collimation
  13. The poor little things on the moon are not active, they are shutdown and just won't die straight away. To give anything a chance of doing more than last a bit in the lead melting furnace of Venus, they would need a considerable head start I think.
  14. I want to see a Venus terraforming program started. The lessons to be learnt are huge and rather relevant.
  15. I found that Canon kit lenses (and others) would easily slip slightly when in manual focus mode. Meaning you get great focus and then when coming to start imaging, it gets a knock and only has to slip a tiny amount. Using some duct tape when doing the focus actually helped me fix that focus position and made sure it wasn't slippage when moving the camera which caused the slight defocussing.
  16. Love 50mm lens Milky Way shots. Take a few more per session and stack if you want to remove the plane + satellite trails (although I quite them like this image!) and it would help in being able to control the purple stars easier too.
  17. More a lean over movement than a slow dance pirouette
  18. Telrad on other side of finder for me too on my 250px. Nice smooth flow of centering in Telrad, validating in finder and viewing in eyepiece...
  19. Is the issue in carrying the Dob as a complete unit? The OTA is simple to remove from the base, and in my experience as a 250px owner myself is that the base is the heaviest and clunkiest piece, the OTA itself is quite easily manageable. If that is the case, then a new base might solve the problem, be it something you can do yourself if you are skilled in that regard, or someone like OrionOptics who sell their Dob bases separately which will fit the 250px tube. @John - didn't you do exactly this in a post I saw a while ago?
  20. I think it is important to also stress the evolving nature of people's experiences and motivations for imaging. Extrapolating from a very scientific sample of one (me), we want to get better - much better. James is right in the sense that this hobby is not a competition against others, but I am certainly trying to compete against previous images and efforts of my own. Even my goals have evolved as I have gained those experience and honed some skills, and for this reason I think mono imaging is far superior, as the opportunities for that growth are far greater than OSC in my view.
  21. What about an alt az fork, like this one : https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p11130_TS-Optics-Fork-Mount-for-large-Binoculars--Spotting-Scopes--Telephoto-Lenses-or-Telescopes.html
  22. I have an old model AA115 and have nothing but praise for it. Other than the annoying end cap it has been lovely to image with. Given you are keeping the widefield scope, I would get the AA115 to give a better range of focal lengths for your 2 options. Here are some images taken with it. Any issues with images are not the scopes fault! My AA115 images on AstroBin
  23. Having done DSLR and mono imaging, I think the key point is There is indeed a kind of elemental fury that surfaces when a mono imaging run ends up with only 1 or 2 usable images with a filter with lovely full set of subs for all other filters. The knowledge that you have collected more photons with the other filters than you ever could with OSC that evening kind of slips into irrelevance when you realise you won't be able to do a great deal of processing without the missing data. If you are regularly set up and regularly rely on multiple sessions to gather data for a single image, then this is no big deal, but for the setup/teardown weekenders like myself it can amount to heart bursting sorrow. I have tried ways to try and limit this, by looping through RGB subs (3 at a time) but the additional refocusing needed etc eats into the overall time and adds more possibility for murphys law to strike. I am a CMOS user mainly now as well, to counterbalance all the CCDers here.
  24. The shift from simple Dob viewing to guided imaging was a massive shift in complexity...
  25. 10mm will give you a decent full disk kind of view and when the seeing is good, you can use a 4mm to get higher magnification. I would not recommend a 40mm for the moon with your scope.
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