Physopto

Told ya ! ?

Daft question ???? I expect there will be the usual panic to hide them from Damian though until the Saturday night! As it is the tenth year Mike was saying we should do something. Extra special on the Saturday night, maybe a nice bonfire ? with a few sparklers. ?

Nearly always ?

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I have used an UPS of the allways on type for over 20 years. It was produced long before the newer wave of USB types came out. So it does not shut down items of equipment as do the new ones. But it does the job. There is no time delay when a power outage does occur because of it being permanently on. It is extremely heavy as its of the transformer type. I have replaced the 12 volt batteries several times over the years. It only can supply about 650 watts so can run without power for around 10 minutes if reasonably heavily loaded. BUT that is all I need to shut down my computer safely. If I could give any advice it would be yes get a good modern UPS machine with USB control, but only run the monitors off it if need be. Run your computers and scope,cameras etc., off 12 volts via a large LiFePo4 battery that is permanently on charge. Costly ,,,,,,, yes but the only way to virtually ensure a constant and stable power supply to your gear. We get so few good clear nights. Derek

I think you are like the rest of us and just love new toys ?

Had to smile! ?

31st June ? On SGL banner before log in.

So when is the commercial due out for the hand cream then ?

Looks like camera adapter either Canon or Nikon type etc. I am wondering if it is actually a complete unit and not two parts!! Derek

Hi Herzy, yes it can still work. The reason is even as the metals may be the same or very similar in make up, the contractions and repeated expansions, maybe six or more times, cause infinitesimally small and different changes/movements between the parts. Over several repeats it is just possible that they will work loose. I have used this method on small and larger items, both aluminium and steel in the past. It has worked sometimes and at others it has not. If the parts have become microwelded due to pressure it is most likely that they will never come apart, but it depends upon the extent of the microwelding. If just really stuck by pressure you may be in luck. Making sure that they have been in a bath of WD40 before commencing will help, but you really need to cool to the lowest temp you can as the oil needs to work it's way in between the threads bit by bit as it changes temp. If you freezer can get to -18/20 deg C all the better. Heating in an oven is OK but be careful as oil can obviously catch fire. If you boil the part in oil it can also be dangerous as a spill or splash can do immense damage to yourself or the surroundings. I used this type of method many years ago at sea and the part slipped from my grasp. I was using steel tongs as it was all we had at the time. The melted grease splashed up my arm and I was quite badly burned even though I had a boiler suite on. So please be careful. You can use copper wire through the parts to form a handle. Derek

I have not seen these parts but if they are not actually on the sope and not attached to any expensive optics or focuser then you could as a last resort put them in a bath of wd40 and leave them there for a day or two, then clean and try again. BUT only if not attached to lenses or expensive scope parts.!!!!! One method that often can work is putting parts into an oven then cooling down a bit then putting into a freezer. Do this several times as it can cause small expansion and ccontractions of the parts so as to eventually allow a small free movement, enough to let the parts seperate. Derek

Then I would recon it is Cone error. The slight wedge is probably down to not being entirely orthogonal to the centre of the circle of the mount. it would be awkward to get exactly right, but doable with time and effort I suppose. Is it worth it? I spent ages getting rid of cone error on my EQ8 (well almost). I have yet to try the same on my 10 Micron. Again is it worth it? Derek

Looks like a small amount of cone error causing the small strip. Do you get the same on the opposite edge ? Derek

Not for me, malt needs two at least!

I have just come across this thread. It is a very nice addition in that it will give confidence in the product. BUT can I make a suggestion, the sticker is OK but not the best idea in some ways. There will possibly come a time when some less reputable person tries to sell on or sell a new so called Es Reid checked and calibrated scope to cash in and deceive a buyer. I suggest that a simple sticker is not sufficient. You can just as easily punch a serial number on the casing ( as do Takahashi) and furnish a certificate signed by yourselves and Es Reid. A record can be kept and checked for authenticity. It also would act as a theft deterrent and help in any case involving the police. I would happily pay extra for that. There is also a method of using smart water. It cannot be removed or seen as it is a DNA signature. Just an idea! Derek

I am sure you will but just in case please pass the link on to every one you think may sign. I have been driving my friends nuts I THINK! Derek

I am fairly sure you are aware but if not please have a look here. https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/119428

Yer RIGHT Alan and double sided! Kill two birds so to speak..... Added value item charge more for the added use of!

I wouldn't be surprised if that worked best! And cheap.

Hi Olly, It is nothing nasty! It is the rubber in sheet form used to make gaskets. We used to have quite a few different thicknesses at sea to make gaskets when necessary. Some types have a cloth reinforcement in the middle others are just rubber. used for pipe flange seals and cut to size for oddly shaped items . You get the same sort of thing made out of other materials for steam or oil, say for crank case seals or such items in engineering.

You need something a bit soft and sticky. You can get the silicon bottle top opener type flat stuff sold in many shops, but some insertion rubber is also good.

Maybe worth a try

If all else fails try putting into the freezer for half an hour then the shoes as quickly as possible after removal.