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Gib007

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About Gib007

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Website URL
    http://www.lightvortexastronomy.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gibraltar
  1. Haha, it's a pleasure! I myself find it useful. At one point TeamViewer just died and refused to reconnect. Their server seemed to be down and that was that. However, unfortunately my mount was tracking and my roof was open. In theory if I waited for 12:00 (midday) the next day, it would close the roof when my computer auto-reboots (as I set it up to do). However, I wasn't willing to let my mount track way beyond its physical limits (I should have enabled limits on EQMod to be fair!) and I didn't want to keep my roof open until midday. To save everything, I just tweeted TRC Park Mount and then TRC Close Roof and that was that. My equipment was safe! If I wanted to, I could then tweet TRC Restart to cause a reboot of my computer, and knowing that my mount was parked, there was no risk of EQMod losing the park position reference. Therefore starting up everything again (providing TeamViewer's server recovered), meant everything was still good to go.
  2. Read more and download: http://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tweet-remote-control.html Tweet Remote Control is a Windows program written in Visual C# 2015, embedding the Tweetinvi and ASCOM references. It is meant to act as an inconspicuous safety backup, particularly useful to those with remote hosting for their astrophotography equipment. The original motivation behind Tweet Remote Control is for when you lose remote control of the remote computer. This can happen due to various reasons, including TeamViewer failing or their server encountering connectivity problems. It is sometimes necessary to restart the computer, or TeamViewer alone, for example, in order to recover remote control. When all else fails, parking your mount and closing your roof may become necessary measures to protect the equipment against possible collisions and from the elements. It is here that Tweet Remote Control can assist, provided the remote computer has an active Internet connection, of course. This stops you needing to have someone to immediately attend to the equipment physically. Put simply, Tweet Remote Control starts with Windows and runs in the background. It connects to a Twitter account of choice and therefore responds to specific commands, effectively sent by tweeting them via the connected Twitter account. The program monitors this connected Twitter account and reads new tweets made. If a tweet made matches a command written into the program, it deletes the tweet, executes the command received and tweets on your behalf (to update you on what is happening). Since all the program requires to function is a connection to a Twitter account, it need only be running on the remote computer with an active Internet connection - the rest is up to your tweet commands! Many features are supported, including control of ASCOM roofs, mounts and power relay switches (as well as Lunatico Astronomia's Seletek Dragonfly). Tweet Remote Control ensures it always starts automatically with Windows (once you connect a Twitter account, that is), and re-authenticates with Twitter automatically every two minutes. This ensures the program is always active with minimum delay, even if the remote computer's Internet connection drops for a period of time. When Tweet Remote Control starts, if it is connected to a Twitter account, it does so minimised to your Windows system tray as a small, black and white icon labelled TRC. Here, the program will remain with no user input required and with no pop-ups whatsoever. The key is being always-on and always-ready without user input and without hassling the user with pop-ups or messages. Finally, Tweet Remote Control is 100% free. Please feel free to contact me for bug reports or to request new features be added! Current list of capabilities in version 1.4: 1. Restart your computer 2. Shut down your computer 3. Restart TeamViewer on your computer 4. Close an ASCOM roof 5. Open an ASCOM roof 6. Check the current status on an ASCOM roof 7. Park an ASCOM mount 8. Check the current status on an ASCOM mount 9. Open power relays (turn off) on a Dragonfly 10. Close power relays (turn on) on a Dragonfly 11. Check power relays on a Dragonfly 12. Open power relays (turn off) on an ASCOM power relay switch 13. Close power relays (turn on) on an ASCOM power relay switch 14. Check power relays on an ASCOM power relay switch
  3. Hi Bill, Sorry the telescope has already been sold! Thanks for your interest though. Best Regards, Kayron
  4. ***SOLD*** You are looking at a listing for a Borg 77EDII apochromatic refracting telescope, used for widefield deep space astrophotography. The relatively small aperture of 77mm and short focal length of 368mm (therefore working at f/4.78) makes this telescope ideal for an ultra-light setup. This is suitable for anyone travelling for astrophotography, or simply for someone wanting to image a massive area of night sky. Borg refractors are well known, high-quality refractors made with Japanese Ohara ED glass elements on the objective lens. These telescopes are paired with a Borg focal reducer for astrophotography purposes and this is supplied with the telescope as well. Specifically, the focal reducer is the Borg #7870. The Borg #7870 focal reducer has a 2" filter thread on the inner section, allowing the placement of a light pollution suppression filter at the front of the optical train. The focal reducer is also high-quality triple element. To the M57 camera side, one can attach adapters to suit their camera, such as the Borg #7522 ring for providing an M42 T-Thread connection to a CCD camera. Two of these rings are provided (one as a spare) so if you are connecting a CCD camera with an M42 T-Thread connection, you can do so immediately with no further purchases. Many other camera adapters are available from here: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/borg-camera-adapters.html The listed Borg 77EDII telescope is around two years old, recently used to capture a stunning six-segment Hydrogen-Alpha mosaic image of Cygnus (see attached photos, or for higher quality: https://www.flickr.com/photos/lightvortexastronomy/27475184241). It is now unused due to having a permanent setup at a remote hosting observatory, with a different telescope being used. This telescope is in excellent condition, optically and mechanically as-new, and comes fully fitted with a Starlight Instruments FeatherTouch focuser, integrated dew shield and a pair of Borg tube bands to attach it to any dovetail bar of your choice. Included along with the telescope itself is the Borg #7870 focal reducer (already configured for this telescope and a backfocus of 55mm - can be adjusted if needed!) and a pair of Borg #7522 adapter rings to connect an M42 T-Thread CCD camera directly to the focal reducer. FeatherTouch focusers are world-renowned for being some of the very best focusers, sustaining 8 to 10 pounds of weight with incredible stability and focusing precision with its dual-speed 10:1 focus knobs and focus lock brake. The new price of this particular Borg 77EDII (bought precisely as listed here) was $2,108, which is about £1,591 at current exchange rates. Given the condition of this telescope, this is a bargain and in the price, I include fast and secure DHL courier shipping.
  5. Hi Steve, The problem is that if I wanted to return the telescope, I would have to drive 3.5 hours to the observatory, take it off my mount, drive back home 3.5 hours and then ship it via a Courier like DHL. The shipping alone would cost £100 or so for the size and weight of the telescope. That's 7 hours driving and £100 spent. Not to mention that I'm paying rent at an observatory whether or not I have equipment set up in it, so I'd be wasting imaging time and paying for it as well. The turnaround time could easily be two weeks, so about £125 of rental fees. If indeed the adjustments I have to make are as simple as dropping acetone on some screws and tightening them further, I'm more than happy to tinker with it myself to avoid all the problems of returning the telescope. If of course after all tightening it's still not good, then I'm not sure - I'd really have to think about how to proceed. Of course, if I lived in the UK and had the telescope with me, I wouldn't hesitate to post it back as it's quick and cheap.
  6. My most sincere condolences to his family and friends. May he RIP. I have not had the pleasure of meeting him but I have spoken to him a few times on SGL and he was always a true gentleman!
  7. Just to confirm that Takahashi Europe's opinion, given the size of my sensor (approximately 10 x 12.5 mm), is that my issue does indeed lie with orthogonality and that tightening up the focuser is what will do it. Also, there are four screws on the focuser but only the outermost two need tightening according to Takahashi Europe. I'm inclined to tighten all four however, though apparently one needs to tighten the outermost two first and then the innermost two. The CAA has three tiny screws that need tightening as well. Measurements of Allen keys required for all screws are as follows: Focuser's outermost two screws = 2.0mm Focuser's innermost two screws = 1.5mm CAA's three screws = 0.9mm All are metric and all have some glue in them that before tightening, need dissolving by use of a drop of acetone. Yeah, I live in Gibraltar but the observatory I rent is at e-EyE in Extremadura, about 3.5 hours drive North of Gibraltar. I intend on going there, making the adjustments and driving back home, all during daytime. I can test it all remotely from home afterwards. If my plan to make the adjustments is close to a day when I'm intending on going there to stay a few nights, then fair enough, I'll wait until then. For now the plan is to make the adjustments ASAP and test whenever it's next clear, remotely. In all fairness, one can test the tightness of the focuser by physically pulling the tube side to side, so if when I tighten, all play is gone, then I'm happy to go ahead with using it.
  8. Thank you for your help guys! Indeed an exposure that was at the Meridian and near Zenith showed improved stars in the corners compared to earlier exposures closer to the horizon (where sag is increasingly pronounced). Ian King and Takahashi Europe have both been helpful in suggesting what to do and they have advised me to tighten up the four screws for the focuser (the ones that need a drop of acetone to dissolve the glue). Having said that, a PDF I found through the other thread not only suggests doing this, but also suggests tightening up the CAA (camera rotator). I've ordered the required screwdriver for tightening up the CAA but the PDF says the four focuser screws need a 5/16 Allen wrench. That has got to be wrong - 5/16 is nearly 8mm and those screws are nowhere near 8mm in diameter! Maybe he meant 5/32 or 5/64, even? Any idea which screwdriver is the appropriate one for those four screws? I have to drive 3.5 hours to my observatory and 3.5 hours back to get this adjustment done. I don't fancy turning up without the required screwdrivers! Thank you!
  9. Thanks for your post. I'm reading through your thread now. Something I read on your thread gave me an idea - to check the difference between my first exposure and my last. My last exposure took place when the target was at the Meridian, so the optical train weight was pulling straight down. Apparently my stars look better in my last exposure, so I'm pretty sure the problem I'm seeing is the weight of my optical train pulling down on the focuser tube, disturbing the orthogonality. I wonder now though, how is this best adjusted to tighten it up?
  10. Hi Olly, thanks for your reply. I've added a link to an individual exposure in my original post at the top. My mount was drift aligned with PHD2 and is a permanent setup in an observatory. The polar alignment is spot-on, so it can't be that. I see the same effect in 10 second exposures, guided or unguided. Keep in mind that before I set up this telescope, I had my Borg 77EDII with 368mm focal length on the very same observatory setup. It showed none of this.
  11. Since I got no replies, I'll add in crops here for ease of analysis! Have a look at the top-left and top-right corners, compared to the bottom-left and bottom-right corners, as well as the centre. To me, the top corners show coma and the Curvature Map at the bottom confirms this. Is there an easy way to correct this myself without having to return the telescope? Thanks! Top-Left Corner: Top-Right Corner: Bottom-Right Corner: Bottom-Left Corner: Centre: CCDInspector Curvature Map:
  12. Hi all, I've just set up my new Takahashi FSQ-85ED at my observatory in Spain and have been using it last night and tonight. I'm just wondering if what I'm seeing on my exposures is coma, which is not meant to be seen, in my opinion. I'm using the telescope without focal extender or reducer, just at its native 450mm focal length. My imaging sensor is a Sony ICX694 so it's pretty small. As a sample, please feel free to download this image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/92999201/NGC6888_L_Stack.fit It's a stack of 7 10 minute exposures of the Crescent Nebula in Luminance. The following is an individual exposure: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/92999201/NGC6888_L_0600s_1x1_frame7.fit Check out the top-left and top-right corners, especially compared to the bottom of the image. Is that normal? Do you think it needs realignment or something? I'm just a little disappointed because my previous Borg 77EDII was perfectly flat. Thank you!
  13. ITEM HAS BEEN SOLD You are looking at a listing for a Borg 45EDII apochromatic refracting telescope, used for widefield deep space astrophotography. The small aperture of 45mm and short focal length of 330mm (therefore working at f/7.3) makes this telescope ideal for an ultra-light setup. This is suitable for anyone travelling for astrophotography, or simply for someone wanting to image a massive area of night sky. Borg refractors are well known, high-quality refractors made with Japanese Ohara ED glass elements on the objective lens. These telescopes are paired with a Borg focal reducer for astrophotography purposes, and this is not supplied with the listed telescope. Therefore, the buyer is recommended to buy a Borg #7870 focal reducer if used for astrophotography. This focal reducer is found here: http://www.sciencecenter.net/hutech/prices/borgparts/html/7870.htm http://www.firstlightoptics.com/borg-collective-other/borg-07x-triplet-multi-super-reducer-with-camera-rotator.html With this accessory, the Borg 45EDII works at a fast f/5.36 with a focal length of 241mm. This is how I have always used this telescope. The Borg #7870 focal reducer has a 2" filter thread on the inner section, allowing the placement of a light pollution suppression filter at the front of the optical train. The focal reducer is also high-quality triple element. To the M57 camera side, one can attach adapters to suit their camera, such as the Borg #7522 ring for providing an M42 T-Thread connection to a CCD camera: http://www.sciencecenter.net/hutech/prices/borgparts/html/7522.htm Many other camera adapters are available from here: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/borg-camera-adapters.html The listed Borg 45EDII telescope is just under one year old and has been used very little, except to capture a stunning two-segment mosaic narrowband image of the North America and Pelican Nebulae (see attached photos, or for higher quality: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightvortexastronomy/25236901603). It is now unused due to having a permanent setup at a remote hosting observatory, with a bigger telescope being used. This telescope is in impeccable and pristine condition, as-new, and comes fully fitted with a Starlight Instruments FeatherTouch focuser, an integrated dew shield and a Losmandy dovetail bar (for ultimate stability). FeatherTouch focusers are world-renowned for being some of the very best focusers, sustaining 8 to 10 pounds of weight with incredible stability and focusing precision with its dual-speed 10:1 focus knobs and focus lock brake. The new price of this particular Borg 45EDII (bought precisely as listed here - no focal reducer was included as I already had one when I bought this telescope) was $1,296.60, which is about £908 at current exchange rates. Given the condition of this telescope, this is a bargain and in the price, I include fast and secure DHL courier shipping. Thank you for looking. I welcome any questions you may have.
  14. Read here: http://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tutorial-example-ngc7000-north-america-nebula-and-ic5070-pelican-nebula---ccd-narrowband-bicolour.html This new PixInsight post-processing example tutorial is based on a CCD monochrome narrowband image of the NGC7000 North America Nebula and IC5070 Pelican Nebula. The colour palette used is Bicolour as it uses data from Hydrogen-Alpha and Oxygen-III filters. This tutorial covers everything from start to finish and is pretty self-contained, with links to other tutorials for further reading of particular techniques employed.
  15. Read here: http://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tutorial-combining-lrgb-with-narrowband.html This tutorial goes over how to combine broadband LRGB data with narrowband data, such as Hydrogen-Alpha and Oxygen-III. The tutorial discusses enhancing Red with Hydrogen-Alpha, enhancing Green and Blue with Oxygen-III and enhancing Luminance with Hydrogen-Alpha. The process used throughout is PixelMath.
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