tooth_dr

Thanks John. I was hoping there would be also pictures of the bespoke solution/hacks rather than just off the shelf items.

That’s consistent with my measurements. In fact it ranges between 47.4 and 47.6mm for different m48 adapters.

I agree. I notice trailing in 30s even at 180mm if alignment is poor.

This is a great thread but it really needs photos of all these brilliant suggestions

I’m ok with 56mm of back spacing in the Tak 😉

I have never seen it in such a wide view. Fabulous

It's an extra 6mm compared to the 2600, so it's 23.5mm

Paul, This most likely means the new breed of back illuminated CMOS sensors such as in the 533 and the 2600. These may also be in DSLRs, but I'm not familiar with them and suspect that the dedicated cooled camera represent better value for our purposes.

Nice image Gorann. I started a thread on it here:

The mono one doesnt look good on paper either by todays standards - low QE, large read noise - but you just have to look at the images from it, and it very much proves that it is still a serious contender. (The colour unfortunately lives up to the poor figures, and shouldnt really be on your list)

After seeing a thread posted by @DaveL59 where there was a pair for sale in Oxfam, I decided that I needed a set. A newly acquired 3d printer may have tipped me over the edge! I picked up 2 lenses on ebay from private sellers, and genuinely these items look like there were never used, packaged with the felt bag and lens caps, the optics are totally pristine. I found a design on Thingiverse for the holders and eyecups, but after printing I realised that the eyecups bits needed to be soft/rubber to fit over the rear of the lenses so I had to bin them. The body design is good though, and I am grateful for the designer sharing this. I had a look at lens, and thought I could design an eyecup that would screw onto the rear of the lens and hold the printed body securely in place without glue. I measured the thread for the rear lens caps to be M28 x 0.75mm, and added this manually to the thread folder in Fusion 360. I've only been using design software for 3 weeks so I'm pretty chuffed at the finished eyecup to be honest. The body could be printed a little more refined, but I painted it in 'steel car wheel paint' so it kinda works. The eyecups I painted in Halfords black camouflage paint which dries a nice flat matt finish. I've had a quick look through these today and I'm impressed with the clarity right out the edge of the FOV. Cant wait to try them out at night. I was concerned that there may be collimation issues, but the plastic printed holder does a great job of keeping them aligned with each other. Just thought I would share my Xmas project! A step towards visual and away from imaging (but maybe I can print an M28 to M48 camera adapter 😇) Best wishes Adam

I was too fast! Depending on the price of it of course, that will have a lot to do with it, but there will be a lot of better choices out there.

Paul That link goes to a serial/ USB convertor! I believe that the colour version of the Atik is not great, and wouldnt be considered an improvement over the DSLR you have. I have never had one, but I believe that is the general consensus. The mono version is a different thing altogether, but then you will need a filter wheel with filters. But this sensor size can work with 1.25" filter.

What’s on the other side of that adapter pictured above: M78 male to M?? male.

I agree with Davey, M78x1.0

The knobs control the dew heaters (although i have a fan connected to one to control speed for mirror cooling). The 12v outputs are always live.

Nice one Paul. We havent had much luck around here, but I will do like you and take what I can when I get it

Perhaps the indelible ink will be too transparent, that would be my first thought. Sounds like you have nothing to lose, as the marker will likely clean off with alcohol should it fail anyway!

It is hard to see from your photo, but it you just measure the diameter of the threads, it will be close to an even number eg 68 72 74. This will be the MXX size. The pitch is harder to measure, but from my recent adventures in 3d printing threads, I've discovered that camera lens filters are all 0.75 even up to 77mm, and that astro stuff like M48 M42 etc is 0.75. The heavier stuff for connecting bigger reducers etc directly onto telescopes is 1.0mm such as M68 and M74. There is be variations to this, but you can sort of tell by looking at thread and how fine it is. Is that measurement 74mm above?

I've made a couple, and also bought some. If it were me in your position I'd consider one of these HitecAstro four-channel, four-port Dew Controller | First Light Optics It will handle the mount and the CCD camera, and you could just plug in the flats panel when you need it. Otherwise you could buy a small 2.1mm splitter cable *click* to allow you to connect the light panel and mount to the same 12v outlet - you wont be using the light panel at the same time as the mount, but the light panel will draw very little current anyway. The above panel also caters for dew heaters too. By the time you buy up the components and spent time doing this, for £74 (and often for sale second hand at around £45) I dont think it's worth it. Plus it comes fused as well in the cigarette lighter plug attachment. I removed this though and have fitted an inline fuse holder (a couple of quid) and have it wired directly to a power supply.

If it’s M74 it will be 1mm pitch as well.

Hi If it’s 68mm and made by TS then I think it’s probably similar to Sharpstar, and they use M68x1. They sell a M68 to M48 adapter, for going from M68x1 to M48x0.75

Wow! Looks like really good data! Stunner.

Very nice Stu, I think this region offers so much, and youve captured it beautifully Also just so happens I've been in Carlisle now twice over the past few years buying cars (two separate unrelated private sales), lovely city.