tooth_dr

Stick with it, I struggled with it too at the start. The creator of APP Mabula has said he plans to reduce the memory usage of the software with new releases in the future.

Wow that’s awesome. Looks like you had a great trip at Les Granges.

Dave, I really appreciate you picking up on the spacing issue. I actually wasnt aware of this, and now that it's pointed out it's obvious. I think I may now realise the cause. I had been using my Atik383L+ on the ED80, but swapped to the QHY9 in May. The QHY9 I assumed had the same back focus as the Atik (17.5mm) but in fact the QHY9 I have is the mark1 model with a 15.5mm backfocus, so I am 2mm too close to the sensor. I wonder does that tally with the star shapes. I attached a corner crop from RGB subs below: Also I agree the Tak stars arent totally round, they appear somewhat elongated. Any ideas of the cause?

Personally I use APP for stacking and some processing, it does a very good job. I then use PS to ruin it. I struggled with APP at the start, but persistence paid off. I have also tried PI and I just couldnt get gel with it, however like yourself I am tempted to look at it again

Class! The were a few gradients to deal with and you’ve done a great job!

Having no haloes is great. I’m just using an ED80 to gather the RGB data, hard to justify an expensive focuser for it.

Flats - these are done with AV mode using your DSLR as you have correctly identified. Dark flats are done with the lens cap on. So whatever exposure time you use for your flats will be the length of time you need for your dark flats. I dont know how this would work if you tried AV mode. The point of dark flats is to calibrate your flats, so they need to be same exposure time and temperature. Your flats with be very short (normally) so you could just not bother using dark flats, or maybe use a bias as a dark flat to calibrate your flat. I've seen me using 15-20s flats so I would tend to use dark flats. The only think wrong with that tablei s the AV setting for dark flats

I've attached my M31 data to see if anyone wants a go at it. This would be of great interest to me to see how my processing can develop, especially around star management on the luminance channel. I've attached the RGB data, focusing issues, so currently deciding on where to go in terms of focusers. M31-tak-Lum-20s.fits M31-tak-Lum-120s.fits M31-ED80-Red.fits M31-ED80-Green.fits M31-ED80-Blue.fits

Your dark flat should be the same exposure as the flat. You cant take darks or dark flats using the AV setting. This is for the flats only. The darks and dark flats are taken with the lens cap on and the exposure set to match lights (for darks) and flats (for dark flats)

Further update! Refurbished DC-201 arrived today, and I tried it there now. It is reportedly cooling the camera according to SGPro, and the % of cooling is climbing, but the temp reading is remaining static at 20 degrees (ambient). I stopped the camera cooler at 80% when it was evident it wasnt doing anything. I tried the other DC-201 I have and it cools the camera immediately showing a drop in temp by a few degrees until it reached xzero. The new one is not working with either camera and either lead, so looks like a duff one. This new DC-201 is also getting hot to touch when it's been on for a few seconds, which I dont like. FFS.

That’s a beautiful image, the final version is great. Should add this to my list of targets

Incredible, nice to see such a great image of this very faint target.

I have noticed this too recently, and it's real problem when you try to take RGB data but dont have a (reliable) autofocuser. I suspect it is due in some extent to the ability of the telescope to correct the light? You havent said what scope you use, but in my doublet it a problem, but it isnt a high end setup.

Thanks Göran. I’ll hoke out the SQM and start a new thread 👍🏼 It’s one that plugs into an Ethernet port and needs configured on the network.

I have an SQM, has it 12 months ago and still sitting in the box, haven’t worked out how to set it up. I would love to see you process my epsilon m31 data though to see how it compares

Dont be using my image quality as reference 😂

So to update this again. I have ran the camera for 30 minutes now at -20deg C and apart from an initial suggestion of icing, it does seem to be working. Ive ran off a few flats and all appears ok apart from some dust, probably from the blow heater. Bern at MA got me a refurbished D-201, and I also ordered the desiccant tube. £100 I didnt think I would have to spend but thats the way it goes sometimes. It will take me a while to trust the camera after this. Thanks for all your input in the thread Steve

It's really nice to have the opportunity to work on the data, thank you FLO. Here is my effort:

Good to know. I'll give it whirl later. Fairly damp here too. I'll order a desiccant tube now along with the DC-210 from MA, nothing to lose

Thanks Steve. I left the whole disassembled camera in a seal container last night stuff with silica gel, and have just assembled it under the warmth of a blow heater. The only thing different with this and my other QHY9 is the lack of the desiccant tube. I am unsure if the desiccant actually does anything - it appears to go in behind the green circuit board, but because I dont use the option optical window (due to backspacing) in either camera, isnt this just in constant communication with open air and therefore pointless trying to dry it?

I tried a few images last night and the white banding came back! Mustn’t have dried it or sealed it properly! Currently sealed in a box with silica gel. Will try again later 🤦🏼

Thanks a great image. APT is brilliant software

Thanks Maurice. Although I have a motorised Moonlite focuser on mine, I also tend to use a Bahtinov mask also, on a magnified image of a star and focus by moving the focuser with SGPro. Based on your image which has only been stretched in APP, my stars do seem larger to my eye. I use a Baader UV/IR cut filter which should be of sufficient quality. Perhaps sky quality plays a part too

@mftoet thanks the reply. That’s exactly how I use APP, it’s great software. Your stars look pretty good with nothing but the stretch. My imaging resolution is 2.2”/px, and yours is 2.0”/px, so not much difference. Can I ask what method you use for focusing?

This comprises of two panels based around a focal length of 500mm Integration: Lum 120 x 120s / Red 17 x 300s / Green 18 x 300s / Blue 18 x 300s Total time: 8 hours 25 minutes, all captured on 14 August 2020 using dual rig Epsilon 180 and ED80. Comments: Green and blue werent great, focus was off, and I couldnt take flats with RGB as the camera developing some icing afterwards, so had to remove and subsequently removed/added dust. I think it looks a bit clumsy and lacking refinement. I saw Gorans image earlier and the crispness and clarity is something else. However I did pick up a lot of nice dust around it, given that I only have 60 x 2 min subs per panel. Here it is anyway, CS Adam.