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Everything posted by happy-kat

  1. Hi, you might like this section https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/279-imaging-smartphone-tablets/ If you take longer shots of landscape you could stack and create a star trails image If using a telescope and static mount then it would be stack lots of short exposures 1-2 seconds as the target will drift pretty fast through the field of view
  2. If stacking a landscape that includes a static foreground then Sequator will stack the images on the stars but you can define the area around the static foreground. This can work well.
  3. Rechargeable batteries are 1.2v each so power would be under the requirement. Not slewing at maximum rate would conserve battery power
  4. This was the startools ST102 post I was thinking of https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/228101-the-no-eq-dso-challenge/?do=findComment&comment=3776550 There also a SIRIL tutorial on startools https://www.startools.org/links--tutorials/3rd-party-tutorials/sirilic-tutorial
  5. I'll add a link later to an image to show how capable your st102 is. The dust bunnies I found were effecting the quality of wipe output I could do. CA there are several ways of tackling it, if you have a 3d printer I would print an aperture mask to stop it down to maybe f7 or so and try that with brighter targets. Startools also has a fringe killer in the filter module which is easy to use.
  6. I have a virtuoso v1 and rarely use the buttons as I picked up a handset second hand. As the virtuoso v2 uses the wifi solution then I'd probably look at some of those winter gloves for phone users. EVA is not totally out of the question with an altaz tracking mount. (Moves in tiny left right up down movements so doesn't follow rotation) so lots of short exposures are stacked instead on longer ones.
  7. I like the tackumar 50mm f2 I have and now that I can fit 1.25 filters to the canon 1100d it opens up other possibilities. For longer reach as the vintage nikon 200mm I have needs too much stopping down f8 I'll use the evoguide with evoffv2 ff.
  8. Hi, had another play yesterday had an idea to deal with the CA strong stars and that was create a star only image (this only holds the stars but no CA bloom) using heal heal out the CA stars and then layer in the star image. It's not the usual way I tackle CA but it was an idea I was going you try. Also the image is pretty big so I was just going too suggest when in DSS to not use drizzle
  9. In addition to the above I would: experiment with stopping the lens down maybe try one stop to start to help minimise the chromatic aberration and also help with corner star shape I used too small an ROI in autodev and probably over shrunk the stars, could do with a fresh go to re do the CA reduction the mask was not quite big enough on some stars. startools 1.7.461MR6 | HLVG plugin in paintshopPro | irfanview for tiff to jpg for upload
  10. Sorry I had meant only using astrometry like you have, I was struggling to see the target but that's more my familiarity with the image and my surprise with the differences. The two DSS settings to check particularly would be that the cosmetic tab doesn't have remove hot pixels and that is in stacking settings and for DSS the setting for not white balancing is approximately set.
  11. Gosh they are quite different processes. Have you plate solved your image. Startools there's a preferred settings and output from DSS for optimum processing which uses a FITS file https://www.startools.org/links--tutorials/starting-with-a-good-dataset/deep-sky-stacker-settings
  12. Well done to the winners and all for sharing their processes, another great challenge.
  13. The data collected is different, one is nb the other broadband I assumed you wouldn't be mixing them on stacking
  14. The reference frame doesn't have to be ticked which is handy
  15. Unless stuck on decking the one thing a dob mounted telescope doesn't do is wobble
  16. Nice review https://neilenglish.net/a-newtonian-travel-scope/ Last thought, as it's truss sided the top can be dropped down should you decide to try a camera on it.
  17. If you are using the heritage 130p from a dark location you don't really need a light shroud as there's little to no light scatter to block. The focuser can have PTFE tape wrapped around can help if needed though I've not applied any to mine. The heritage 130p telescope does have a standard dove bar so has the ability to be fitted to a tripod at a later date. With a 6mm eyepiece (can't recall if I used a 1.6x barlow as well) I saw a Jupiter moon shadow and could make out 5 band areas. With the supplied 10mm saw Saturn had a ring separated from the planet. Found the ring nebula and marveled at what the grey fuzzy was.
  18. On the startools site there is a tutorial for the optimum DSS settings to use for StarTools. https://www.startools.org/links--tutorials/starting-with-a-good-dataset/deep-sky-stacker-settings
  19. Maybe the answer to this turned up yesterday on a 130p-ds imaging post, and that was effectively a thin aperture mask that was used in the primary mirror to effectively cover the mirror clips. It reduces the defraction spikes to just 4 pretty much. Took ages to find this thread to share but can't now find the other thread with the details that were posted.
  20. Also the settings on the cosmetic tab when used can cause the centre of stars to be removed
  21. The disadvantages of leaving NR on is the extra time it takes plus the NR algorithm may eat the fainter stars in the exposure taken as they are assumed to be noise. You could try different settings to see how it works on your camera.
  22. Interval use the time of the interval and exposure, so needs to be 23 seconds.
  23. I if the above doesn't help, are you setting the intravalometer up right, what are the numbers you are using?
  24. The planets are low in the sky so are going through more atmosphere which degrades the image seen. I think I'd try your 16mm with the x2 barlow as the maximum magnification as any more probably just makes a bigger blurrier blob. If it's going well with that try the x3 barlow with the 16mm. The Moon generally can take more magnification though you'll find some sessions will be better than others.
  25. I'd say that was a win, super first image. You could do dark flats as well these I find help with noise.
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