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Showing results for tags 'dss'.
Found 31 results
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From the album: Pix pix
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Hi all This is more of a cry for help than a showcase but I seem to have produced a situation where a single sub is giving me a better result than a DSS stacked image! The long and short of it is last night (16/01/2015) was the first clear night for ages so I spent some time outside trying to get as much data as possible in varying formats (ISO800, 1600 and 800 with Powermate). The examples below are ones taken at native FL at ISO1600 with a non-modded Canon 1100D with Astronomik LP filter through the WO GTF81. Subs are 120 seconds, 24 of them (a few more lost to star trails probably caused by the wind). At first I saw the subs coming through looking reasonably good, albeit bluish thanks to the LP filter. I could see a bit of a tail and was encouraged that I might get a good result after stacking with DSS. An example of one of the subs (in JPG format, the CR2's are even better but of course I can't upload them here to view) is below: After all subs were taken I took another 25 bias. Started to take darks but then had snow so had to bring everything in - I used darks from the library so not ideal. Flats also from the library. Stacked them in DSS using the 'stars and comets' option (option 3 for those who know DSS) but the result that came out the other side has sadly given me very little. I've stretched it beyond reason in PS CS5 and there simply isn't much there (see PNG output below): If you fancy a stab at the data feel free to grab the 16-bit TIF here or the 32-bit TIF here. So the question is, any ideas? What am I doing wrong or is there anything else I can get out of this? Or is the equipment simply not good enough to get the detail, especially with the LP filter? As always I value everyone's opinion so don't hesitate to throw anything at me! Cheers all Will -
Hey SGL I was wondering in what order to processes DSO, and if different types of DSO require a different order. This is still basic, so 1 set of lights, single shots (aka not using filters to split colours), etc. Tutorials suggest: eg BudgetAstro DSS Align Colours Remove Vignetting (PS if no flats taken) Star Mask Levels Curves Match Colour / Reduce Noise / Sharpen I notice before I watched the BudgetAstro videos, my pictures turned out to be more vivid, when is Saturation done?
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Hi, i was just wondering about something. When i try to use 2x or 3x drizzle in DSS i am always confronted with a message about how much memory will be needed to preform it. I have never been able to continue because by laptops memory is always on the red line, i am constantly getting pop ups saying i must make space as i have ran out of memory and i can never seem to find what is taking up soooooo much space. Now, i have an external hard drive with plenty of GBs or space. Does anybody know if there is an option to plug in my hard drive and use that space while DSS does its thing? I know its a long shot but thought i would ask. Would be an awesome option. Cheers.
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Hi guys, reviewing your captured data the day (or the week) after the long awaited night is always excruciating. All this data, that is so painfully acquired and now not good enough? Where would you draw the line with egg shaped stars or cloud brightened subs? Example: normal sub - cloudy sub - egg shaped stars subs -
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I am having lots of trouble processing some widefield Milky Way shots in DSS. At the end of the stacking process I get the usual screen for R G B wlignment but the image is white/blank without any RGB curves. I am using a canon 100D and the latests versions of DSS. Has anyone encountered this problem before? I have run out of ideas as to how to solve it. Thank you all for your help.
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I have a few queries re tiff files in DSS and hope someone can explain. Firstly, it took me forever to figure out that the autosave tiff file cannot be opened using normal editing software because its 32 bit. At least I think that is the case – maybe someone could kindly confirm. Second, when the final image is rendered on the screen, it seems to be quite dark. Of course this can be edited within DSS, and I’ve found stacking the RGB curves somewhere in the middle of the graph seems to get a good result. So then I save this file as a 16 bit image, and play with it in editing app. That works OK. But if I close the image in DSS and then re-open the 32 bit autosave file, it looks quite different to the way it was originally rendered. I also notice that the graph now looks like a straight line, rather than the original curvy line. If I hit the “reset” button, the curve appears as it did in the original, and if applied, the image then darkens to the same appearance it had in the original. I don’t know why this should be, but the key question is, if I reopen the 32bit autosave file, will this have the same data as the original? Or do I need to do all my DSS manipulation before closing the original file? I hope that makes sense! Thanks for reading.
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Hi is anyone using Regim to stack using a dslr modded , currently trying to work out the settings in regim , im using a modified canon 1000D , do i need to set up libraw within regim ? if anyone has good success in using regim i would be interested in hearing what settings you are using .
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I see this question appears fairly regularly so I have been reading through a lot of old threads before posting however none seem to answer my question directly, hence this post. I have been using DSS for a while now and in general I have been stacking and then choosing ‘Do not apply adjustments’ and saving as a TIFF format. I suspect these steps are detrimental to the outputted file in that precious data is being lost. From what I have read I should always use the ‘Autosave’ file and save as a FIT file (32bit?)? Then go into FITS Liberator and save as a 32Bit TIFF or 16Bit Tiff? Lastly go into Photoshop and open either the 16bit as normal or open the 32bit and convert to 16bit (using Exposure & Gamma method) on the drop down? Now I have compared the FITS file which I have saved in DSS with both the Autosave and the ‘Do not apply adjustments’ type and then followed the stages through FITS and then PS. What I am seeing on either FITS file is that after they have gone FITS Liberator they appear to be being stretched by FITS Liberator. If I compare the images in PS it is clear to see the differences against my current method. The Autosave 32bit version definitely gets stretched more but the 16bit is also stretched but less so. Whereas using my 'normal' method in PS it displays a darker starting image. In the alternative method these images are clearly showing DSO is clearly visible. Ideally I want to control this myself so I do not want them to appear stretched before I can begin working on them. e.g. Protecting against Stars being saturated from the outset. I tried to see if I could just switch off Auto Stretching in FITS Liberator (initially I thought this was a non-permanent change but it appears not) but I could not find a way. Am I missing something here? The default Stretch function in FITS Lib is ‘Linear’ but having tried all of the others none see to allow no stretching? I understand Maxim DL and Astro Art other alternatives but surely FITS Liberator is sufficient for this purpose? Are my steps correct? Do I need to worry about saving as a FIT from DSS or is this all extra work for nothing? Thanks -
I wrote this guide a while ago and after only recently updating my homepages thought I would share it on here. It is just a basic tutorial in how to use Deepsky Stacker. If only one person reads this and finds it useful then I am happy There are other tutorials on my homepage and if any of the admin wish me to create links then I shall ..... I need to hit the 250 posting mark so I can put a few wanted adverts up Deepsky Stacker Tutorial Best wishes, Steve -
Hi, I would really appreciate some feedback/advice on the following. A few nights ago I took 45 x 300s subs of the Rosette Nebula at ISO800 with a modded 700d Canon DSLR through a Altair Wave ED80. I've stacked the image with 30 darks, 30 bias, no flats (I have a plano which, apart from the extreme edges seems to handle any vignetting) and had a go at processing in photoshop. I live between Leeds & Wakefield so skies are very light polluted but tried to reduce the effects by using a Hutech IDAS LP filter. I started image capture about 9pm so the Rosette Nebula was relatively low in the sky although some captures were taken much later when it has well above the horizon. After stacking I had some data but a lot less than I was expecting and really struggled to bring out any detail on Photoshop. The questions I have are: 1) Is the level of data I have (see screenshot of DSS) typical for this amount of subs? (I have spread the channels out so you can see the data for each. I've aligned each before processing. 2) Should I have used a higher ISO say 1600? 3) Would changing DSS settings make any difference. I use standard mode, Average for Lights & Darks, median for Bias. 4) Is the fact that I'm in a high LP area significantly affecting the quality of the images. There are some fantastic DSLR images of the Rosette nebula on this forum, so I think I should probably be getting better results. I am relatively new to AP so apologies in advance for all the questions. Thanks Dec. -
I've just been trying to stack a series of lights, darks, flats and bias frames in Deep Sky Stacker. The lights, darks and flats were all taken on the same night. The bias frames are older, but have been used on many pictures before (with no issues). However, on this occasion when I ran the whole lot through Deep Sky Stacker the whole left hand side of the resulting image was faded and blurred. A process of elimination narrowed it down to a problem with the bias frames. I took a fresh set of bias frames, but got exactly the same problem. Has anyone any idea what the problem might be? -
I've recently started DSO imaging: Canon EOS 550D (modded), Celestron 9.25 SCT, AVX mount. I use BYE, save RAW + JPEG to laptop, then process in DSS. When I go into Register checked images: advanced: compute number of detected stars; I get a decent number (approx 250) if I am registering JPEG images at 2%, but very few, often zero, with RAW images of the same object, no matter where I put the slider. Am I getting the settings wrong, or is there another answer. Thank you.
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Just having a little play with the QHY5L-II, prior to modding - but wanted to have a quick attempt at M13 last night. I was actually quite pleased with the quality of the resulting frames and took 100 x 3sec light frames (red channel only) and 10 x darks. All frames saved as TIFF from source AVI using PIPP. However, no matter what star detection threshold settings I put in to DSS it finds no stars in any of the subs. My reference frame is below: Whilst this is certainly nothing special, I'm sure I have more stars than hot pixels! I've had a quick look through a couple of tutorials and googled no star detection in dss (only hits seem to relate to EOS FITS frames). Have I done something fundamentally wrong on the capture or am I missing something obvious in DSS?
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Hi guys Just bought a modded Canon 500D to replace my beaten up Nikon D70 which, although it's served me well for 3 years, I am sick to death of! I've only had one short opportunity to give the Canon a test run, and it all seems fine until I stack in DSS. If I use lights and darks only I get a reasonable result, but when I add flats and bias the finished tif has no colour. I'm using the same settings in DSS as I used for the Nikon, but of course that's probably no good for the Canon. Anyone else out there using a 500D and DSS to stack? If so, what settings are you using in DSS for lights, darks, flats and bias etc? Thanks guys
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From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha shot of the pelican nebula in Cygnus. 2 x panel mosaic. 10 min subs. 9 x 10m + 9x10m stacks stitched together in ms ICE. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
Hi, can anyone help with star detection in DSS. I have been getting some good images using my Star Discovery 150p and nikon d5100. I'm using a 2xbarlow as I know I can't gain prime focus on this OTA and keeping my exposures down to 25secs due to field rotation with it being a Altazimuth mount and this can also be corrected in processing. The problem I'm having is that when I put everything in to DSS and register the images, it detects hundreds of stars but when I stack them it tells me there's not enough stars and to change the threshold so it can stack more of the images! The threshold is already set all the way to the left at 2% I'm using 100 x 25sec exposures iso 1600, 25 x dark @ 25secs iso 1600 and 25 x bias @ 1/4000secs iso 1600 No matter what I do it will only stack the dark, the bias and 1x25secs exposure! Is there anyone out there that has had similar issues and can shed some light on this please.
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Hi! I have about 4 hours worth of data from M51. I captured my subframes with my 8" Orion Newtonian Astrograph and my Nikon D3200. About two hours of data are from 30 second exposures (some at ISO800 and others at ISO100). The rest are 4 minute exposures at ISO800 (these were captured after I bought my Orion Starshoot SSAG). In order for DSS to align these frames, I need to have different star detection thresholds for the 30 second subs and the 4minute subs. I tried doing this by using batch Stacking, but it still uses the same detection threshold for all the file lists (or so I think, since at 20% it stacks almost all the 4 minutes, but at 6-7% it only stacks one of the 30 second frames). And fyi, when stacking only the 30 second frames, there is no problem making an image. Stacking only the 4 minute subs also shows no problems. Let me know any ways you can think of to resolve this. I appreciate it! -
Hi all, Last week I made some photos using my canon 500d on fixed tripod, with also the darks and bias. The results were not bad, but no milky way really visible, and I've been trying a little bit to fiddle with DSS parameters, or ACDSee, but no luck. I thought maybe the lack of flats was partially the cause of this, so I made some, yesterday. But probably I haven't understood flats at all, because instead of cancelling the vignetting, it added bright vignetting...... So my question is, if my lights are 30 20sec subs, 1600 ISO, f/4.5 at 18 mm, what should my flats be like? I did 30 subs at 1600 ISO, f/4.5 18 mm, but left the exposure automatic, which meant 1/320sec... (I used a tablet screen using a flashlight app). The flats show vignetting. If I had kept the 20sec exposure, they would obviously be completely white, overexposed... I attach two photos, one with, and one without the flats... NB: the one with bright vignetting is the one WITH the flats... :-/ thanks for any help!! Gerhard.
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As in the title, I have a set of 11 Lights plus 16 Darks loaded into DSS but it says it can only use one of the lights. Individually, they all look much the same if rather dim. There are lots of things that can be changed but it's 2 years since I last used DSS and I can't remember what to do. Any help much appreciated. Thanks
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From the album: 2012
California Nebula October 2012 - Unmodified Canon 7D, Lights 23x200 + 40x100, Darks 10x200 + 8x100. Stacked in DSS. Histogram stretched in PI© Tim Corso
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I read and enjoy this form a lot. I wish I was able to post more (some) content, but I haven't been out for ages. Anyway got out last hight determined to get 1499. Started out taking 200 sec subs with my un-modded 7D. Then mister Moon came out to play, so decided to reduce the exposures to 100 secs (not really sure if that was a good strategy? Anyway here's the result of stacking in DSS (i'm not a fan of DSS but it seemed to have been good to me this time) and a histogram stretch in PI. PA: using Alignmaster Captue: BYE Comments and criticism welcome.
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Hello guys! I have some free time now so i decided to finally try my first attempt at drift alignment with a DSLR (Canon 1000D, prime focus). I know that my setup is lame for DSO pics, but i'm up for the challenge of trying the best i can with what i have for now, so yesterday i started this little quest (and i realized how long i have to go.. hehe.. but that's part of the fun). The set-up: sky-watcher 130mm F=900mm, EQ2 (lol), 4x speed R.A. motor and Canon 1000D. To make things short: After i tried the best out of the polar alignemnt i could, I aimed at m57 and took 120x20 seconds subs, 40 dark and 40 bias. I got from those 120, around 45 without serious startrails (eq2 and polar precision, i guess is gonna be a struggle.. also, i think everytime the wind would hit the scope, would ruin one shot). In DSS i loaded all this info and left everything in default... at the threshold menu for detecting stars, i got what i predicted was a problematic number: 9 stars at 2%. So the problem is: in DSS, he tells me he can only register one of 45 shots... "you should check the threshold, etc..". My questions are a lot, but i'll make a few for now: - wouldn't 20 seconds be enough for it to detect more than 9 stars in every pic? I leave you the example of the processing of DSS with only one light photoframe (in attachment)... I can see more than 8 stars (which i was tols was the minimum for registing the frame). -Could it be because i was using a baader filter for moon and skyglow in front of the 25x lenses that might have darkened the image to the point of no star recognition? Could it be the light pollution, me being in the center of a city? -Is there any way i can go around this problem of no star recognition and use the info i have in the 44 pics left ans stack them somehow? I'm sorry for making it "heavy", please bear with me as i am very new to this! Thanks in advance! Cheers, Rui -
Hey all, I took some really rough images of M42 the other night, alignment and focus was by eye, heavily light polluted, no calibration frames and I have a dusty corrector plate. However, this was the first time I have shot a deep sky object and for how rough it was I was pleased, see attached. I watched a lot of DSS tutorial videos last night and I decided to stack the 16 images I have just to see what I get. Now, I am under no delusions as to the expected quality of the final image however, stacking made all the stars vanish and the overall quality of the image was less that that of a single frame. Any suggestions? I do not have an example image saved, sorry. Thank you.
