CraigT82

I wonder if oversampling helps by making the finest detail captured physically larger in the image than the pixel scale shot noise. If the smallest details the image contains are larger (occupy more pixels) than the noise, then does that make it easier to sharpen the detail without sharpening that noise? Conversley if the smallest details are only occupying two pixels (if properly sampled) then does it become more difficult to then sharpen that detail without also sharpening the pixel scale noise as they are much closer in size?

I’ve always sharpened my stacked tiffs first, mainly because I find it easier to place the image measurement outline frame around the planet on sharpened images, and an accurate measurement is critical for image derotation.

Sorry not a Tak expert, but have you seen this? Where is the observatory located?

Ah ok, I see lots of entire rigs for sale on here as a job lot but don’t often seeing them sold that way, more often the seller ends up splitting. Could be worth speaking to a dealer who could take the whole lot of your hands?

I guess if you’re really unsure and you’re not looking for a quick sale then start high (perhaps close to what you bought it for if you bought it new) and then lower the price gradually until it sells.

Very good point… some nice CCDs on here have been struggling to sell despite being very capable cameras.

General rule of thumb is 2/3 of new price as long as item is in good condition with box and instructions etc etc. However there is a lot of variation on this: Item condition, bits missing, current availability/rarity, willingness to post, etc. all can affect how much you get for something.

Once you’ve got your Jupiter image size in pixels and it’s apparent size in arc seconds, plug it into the calculator here (6th one down) https://www.wilmslowastro.com/software/formulae.htm

IMO there’s no way you’ll be able to swap one OTA for another and maintain an accurate PA, just the act of changing the tubes over is going to disturb it. You PA first when the mount is loaded up and when you unload it by taking weights/tube off and the mount is going to mechanically rebound (for want of a better word), next OTA goes on and the mount won’t then settle back into exactly its previous position. That’s my thoughts anyway. If you think about heave of the soil during dry/wet spells, thermal expansion/contraction of all the metal parts of the pier and mount, not to mention the concrete itself (CoTE of concrete is roughly the same as steel - depending on the aggregate used) and it’s no wonder that the most carefully adjusted PA doesn’t last long.

Yeah probably. If I was working on a valve spring for an F1 engine I’d be concerned about that but for a collimation spring in a budget amateur telescope it works fine…. My springs are still very springy.

They’re really good considering the equipment, nice work 👍🏼

Those are three sub-forums of the buy & sell forum area, you need to click into the top one and create your topic in there (and also view the sale ads in there too)

You’re talking about cone error, Google conesharp it will help you minimise it

Nice shots, very interesting to see how the small pixel/ lower FR setup works, very well by the look of it👍🏼

The Alpkit head torches are great, good bang for you buck.

Very nice shots, this latest generation of cameras are a real game changer

Ah I’m sure it’ll be fine to repeat what’s said on CN or even post links to it… just include an advisory warning that CN is a wilderness and should be navigated with care! 😂

Please post in this thread… I’m sure lots on here would be interested in a new Registax!

Very nice, I like that a lot. Great resolution from the (relatively) little mak.

That’s a beauty Neil, expertly processed… really well done 👍🏼

Very nice image 👍🏼

Those are fabulous captures, the subtle colour really brings them to life. As for sheer resolution I think you could still do better with the 8” newt. What is your sampling rate? My best detail from the same class of scope (well, an 8.5” newt) is below and I think you could get close to this with your 8” in excellent seeing and correct sampling.

Depends on what you’re using it for, but for general deep sky work I would use a UV/IR cut (I.e any luminance filter).

Just need and OpenAstro tripod and pillar extension to go with it

QHY now getting in on the 585 game… They’re also bringing out the QHY5iii200m which is highly sensitive in the UV and NIR (will be a great Venus imaging camera).