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Marci

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Everything posted by Marci

  1. Synscan protocol REQUIRES connection to the Synscan controller. You can’t direct control the Virtuoso iirc.
  2. Side note as I don’t think it’s been mentioned: if you’re having to run things as administrator you’re going to have issues. There’s no need to run or install anything as administrator. It just creates more problems than it solves as things NOT running as (v.loosely speaking) administrator generally can’t talk to things that are & vice-versa, and you end up creating default profiles & sockets that can’t be updated by non-admin users etc.
  3. I use 3.65.5 (beta) without issue. See http://aptforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2260 for changelogs from 3.65 thru to 3.65.5. Anything above 3.65.1 has the expanded object list... The _next_ release (3.65.6) should feature full INDIgo integration.
  4. They've expanded APT with a further 18000 objects in latest betas... just tick the "show expanded object list" checkbox in lower left of the Objects browser pane if you're a paid-up user with access to the beta versions. Without it ticked you'll just get "the usuals".
  5. *ting* https://wakefieldastronomysociety.co.uk
  6. Nope - tis the same thing... Photoshop can operate in LAB color space and split into Lightness, A (Magenta/Green), B (Blue/Yellow). Should be under Edit > Convert to Profile > LAB Color (or something like that iirc - word of warning: do this on a finished flattened image, as it'll flatten it automatically as part of the conversion). Usually I do this on a copy of the final component images, to pick up the L layer, and then drop it on top layer back in my regular RGB composite and set layer blending to Luminance.
  7. Just going off this output - recommendation is / was usually to disable power management for WiFi on rPi. Used to get this issue frequently on my home automation network until I killed power management off.
  8. Marci

    M42 - Orion Nebula

    From the album: Marci’s Astropix

    EOS1000D, SW200PDS, NEQ6... 74mins @ ISO800

    © aPatchworkBoy.com (aka Marci)

  9. Popped up to Towton Moor on Monday eve with the gear... managed to get a shot of the obligatory nebula-du-jour. Nowhere near the clarity, sharpness & composition of Ryan’s previous masterpiece... but good enough for me!
  10. Sorry - I worded badly... have a look at https://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/121488-testing-undervolt-tec-air-cooled-3.html#post1319096 The original post they refer to there (which originally contained much more data for a wide range of manufacturers, and the validated test rig etc) over on HardwareAsylum looks to have been lost (altho I’m 90% certain the original thread was actually on procooling.com a few years prior - it _was_ 20yrs ago... my memory gets hazy).
  11. Insulating all exposed coldplate will also increase efficiency - you'll be losing a good chunk of cooling power to the air. Can improve efficiency further by finding a higher wattage/voltage etc and under powering it - look to PC TEC cooling forum archives for spreadsheets of make/model testing - getting you same wattage but for lower ampage at 12v = same cooling for less power consumption... amp-load saving can be dramatic
  12. *snip* (I'd missed a page of replies)
  13. PSP does NOT support 32bit-depth image formats - only up to 16bit-depth. See http://help.corel.com/paintshop-pro/v20/main/en/documentation/index.html#page/Corel_PaintShop_Pro/Understanding_color_depth.html Colour bit-depth of an image is _completely_ unrelated to memory addressing bitsize of the targeted software architecture (i.e.: 32bit software/OS/hardware v 64bit software/OS/hardware). That said, your camera won't be producing 32bit subs - it'll be producing 8, 12 or 14bit (iirc for most common sensors, 16bit if it's an expensive astro-specific scientific camera), so it's pointless sticking with DSS's default behaviour of saving 32bit TIFs. You can't invent data (the additional 16bits of color depth) that isn't there & recorded by the sensor to begin with. Set DSS to save as 16bit, then use any software supporting 16bit color depth images (PS / PSP / Gimp / Affinity etc, regardless of 32bit / 64bit architecture). pixInsight & Maxim (& probably other scientific image processors, as opposed to photographic visual image editors) will handle 32bit-depth image formats, but bear in mind any data beyond the bit-depth of the camera sensor is invented/backfilled by mathematical algorithm.
  14. Rotunda Shipping Tubes will be closest match - folks stopped manufacturing the traps case style pictured years ago, they're all moulded abs plastic these days as they protect the stands better & hold more weight.
  15. If you intend to use PEC (periodic error correction) via EQMOD you should use ASCOM pulse guiding (otherwise PEC & ST4 fight against each other)... if not using PEC, there's no real discernible performance difference between the two. Most using EQMOD lean towards pulse guiding, whereas most handset pilots I come across tend to be using ST4.
  16. Photo says 48mm, topic says 58mm ... which is it?
  17. Is PHD2 connected to the mount successfully, whilst APT cannot... and if so, if you disconnect PHD2, does APT then connect... or does _nothing_ connect successfully?
  18. See http://www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/flocking-newtonian.html - details it nicely.
  19. Just edited post to add link to that youtube video... Tony Hallas: DSLR Astrophotography - Nov 2014. S’a subject-to-opinion piece, but still worth watching. I tend to use the Camera RAW correction tools on the final stacked output rather than doing it on each sub as he suggests.
  20. Most practical mods are whacking a fan on it’s bum to speed up cooling down the primary, flocking the interior if not already done to improve contrast, and grabbing a set of Bob’s Knobs for the secondary to make collimation easier. I then added a mobile phone mount alongside the finder scope and fired up Stellarium to deal with pointing & finding...
  21. Practice with Lens Correction in Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop RAW processor... s’doable, and once you’ve sussed the specific settings for your imaging train it’s just a matter of noting them down and consistently applying them. Poor man’s flattener - does the job well enough til one can afford it. Downside: you won’t be able to increase an existing stack manipulated this way later down the line with more subs after purchasing the flattener. There’s a youtube video out there somewhere of a talk by someone or other re: dithering instead of darks for dslr... he covers chromatic aberration and vignetting, but there are also sliders to correct out fisheye. EDIT: Found it. (S’a subject-to-opinion piece, but still worth watching. I tend to use the Camera RAW correction tools on the final stacked output rather than doing it on each sub as he suggests.) I’d say budget vs priorities. For me, polar aligning was a major PITA due to no north view of polaris at all, so guiding was the priority as it meant I could then make the best of whatever vague alignment I could get. If skint, a 50mm guidescope and QHY5 (original) can be had for less than £100 if you sniff about hard enough... or 50mm guidescope and an old ASI034MC for even cheaper. Otherwise, friends with SW ED80 all seem to gravitate towards the QHY Mini Guidescope due to it’s minimal impact on weight. S’also dinky enough to whack on an adapter directly onto a DSLR's hotshoe to use with regular lenses for widefield guiding, so can be used in advance of scope purchase. Longer the exposure you end up getting tho, the more you’ll want that LP filter, and depending what mod you plan on having done, you’ll then need to decide between CLS or CLS-CCD if looking at Astronomik clip-ins.
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