Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

astrosathya

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    417

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by astrosathya

  1. astrosathya
    That's a Brilliant idea Michael. I never thought about it maybe because the filter wheel of my camera is offset (plus heavy) and may affect the balance of the scope. But I will try this. By the way, I use stellatium to check FoV of my main camera, but please may I know what software have you taken the screenshot from?
  2. astrosathya
    GSO RC6 1350 FL.
  3. astrosathya
    yes, only when I point the scope at a star rich FoV like a cluster or a huge nebula etc. I also use the same camera as a finderguider most times.
  4. astrosathya
    Hi everyone, I would like to use my QHY5L-II with my OAG. However, it seems like even at 2x Binning its not able to see stars. I've used Dark library, but no use even then Any help will be appreciated.
  5. astrosathya
    good image.
  6. astrosathya
    Hi Everyone, I am planning to belt mod my 8 year old HEQ5-PRO with the Rowan Kit. I'd highly appreciate comments and user feedback from folks who've already been using it and the results you've achieved compared to the geared HEQ5-PRO please. TIA.
  7. astrosathya
    Just thought i'll bring this up as a point of discussion. Today, cooled CMOS Astro Cameras are available in plenty. QHY, ZWO and other variants of the same camera are selling for very reasonable prices. However, there was a point of time when astrophotographers used to cool down their DSLR's as a cheap OSC alternative to CCD cameras. Give a choice, I would've purchased a dedicated CMOS OSC which can cool to 40 C below ambient, but since I had a Canon 500D which I had self modded, I requested a friend Kaustav Chatterjee (an avid model railroader) to cold mod my 500D (he had cold modded his 1000D long back). This newly modded camera has a TEC12703 single peltier and cools to approximately 20 below ambient.What do you guys think?
  8. astrosathya
    Hi Everyone, While we all know that there are plenty of hubs out there in the market like Hitec Astro Hub and Pegasus Astro Hubs for providing 12VDC and USB comm link for good cable management, I am a DIY person with little to no experience in electronics. I do know how to solder reasonably well. I am looking to see if someone here could help me with a circuit diagram for a hub that gives has 5x12VDC output, 3x5VDC output and 4xUSB powered hub for communication. I would then go out, purchase all components and build one for myself. This is only so that I don't have too many cables dangling off of my mount and becoming a constant trip hazard. TIA guys.
  9. astrosathya
    I was planning on buying this one. You say its good?
  10. astrosathya
    Lovely image.
  11. astrosathya
    Really good work progress. Kudos..
  12. astrosathya
    Please dont use a Barlow. It only reduces the Field of View, but also light transmission reduces because of the number of lenses the light needs to go through. Plus, for small objects you need to increase resolution of the scope. By adding a Barlow you're only boosting the focal length. Resolution is increased with aperture. In this regard, I'd recommend you get a to 8 inch SCT from Celestron. But you'll also need a mount to support all that weight
  13. astrosathya
    Thank You Robin, While initially I did experience a lot of frustration in collimating my RC6, eventually I found it really easy and fun to do.. I can now collimate within 10 minutes to a high degree of accuracy, with only a long Cheshire and a Collimation cap with reflective inside.
  14. astrosathya
    well said.
  15. astrosathya
    Thank You so much Stacey. This is exactly what I hoped to see. Greatly appreciate your reply.
  16. astrosathya
    Hi Everyone, I am posting on behalf of a friend who has a C14 Edge HD, lives in a really remote place with no access to service facilities for his C14 Edge HD. The coma corrector lens (one near the focuser) which is inbult has a lot of fungal growth on it and he would like it to be removed and cleaned. If anyone could describe how to do that,i'd be really grateful.
  17. astrosathya
    Hi Stacey, please could you post an unprocessed(unstretched too) single frame? Just to look at what the data looks like right out of the camera.
  18. astrosathya
    Do a Drift Align by Robert Vice (DARV) using the DSLR. That'll sort out your Polar Alignment error.
  19. astrosathya
    Its good for a beginners image. Here's what you could do to imrpove it. 1) Wait until it rises to almost right above your head, or as high as it can get. 2) Use cropped video mode on your camera, this way you'll also get the highest frame rate. This will help you with Lucky Imaging, that is getting those tiny good moments between air turbulence. 3) Take a video for about 1 to 1.5 minutes. 4) Use a Barlow of good quality, preferably an ED Barlow.
  20. astrosathya
    off late i've come across some incredibly good images taken with a simply 600mm FL scope and an Un Cooled ZWOASI 290MC (2.9 micron pixels). I was so pleasently surprised that I actually ordered a used cooled version of the same camera (they're out of production now). I too have an Orion 80ED with 600mm Focal length, and instead of making it slower than what it already is, I decided to do what Olly has suggested here, aka, reduce the side of pixels, and in my case i've reduced it exactly by half. Below are two of the examples I was referring to. They were taken with a 6 inch f4 netwonian and the ZWO ASI 290MC
  21. astrosathya
    You can get a DSLR to Mobile Phone Power Bank adapter and your camera can fire away for days.
  22. astrosathya
    Looks like you've either not taken darks, or you've over stretched the image so much that with the nebula, the noise too has been stretched. Also, take flats and bias frames. They will vastly improve the image.
  23. astrosathya
    For 4 hours you've got a lot of data. I must be missing something in myprocesing. I too got 4 hours on Rosette this season, but it hasn't turned out as vivid as yours.
  24. astrosathya
    How many hours is this? I too live in Bortle 8 skies, I have both the Baader 7/8.5 Ha-O3 filters.
  25. astrosathya
    Hi John, Great explanation there. You mentioned the "elongated stars on upper right". Now that's a problem I've been facing with my astrograph. I've tried using the Gary Seronik method that you've described though a modernised manner. I still need to check mine on real stars though.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.