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About jambouk

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    Red Dwarf

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  1. I think there is a word (or term) for the phenomenon where you are looking for something, like Venus in the twilight sky, but you just can’t see it, but then as soon as you do spot it, you see it all the time, despite the fact the brightness of the object nor of the sky is any different. I am sure I heard someone describe this with a word or a term during a talk in the past. Thanks for any help. James
  2. vlaid - excellent. Greenmjg7, are you able to stack say 10 or so consecutive images with the alignment function turned off? If not, if you can upload them to Dropbox or the like, one of us can do this. James
  3. vlaiv, in the absence of a guiding set up, or the ability to tune the mount or undertake a belt mod, is it worth the original poster doing a 10 minute sub with low ISO and maybe a filter to get a longer run of the trailing to see it in more detail? Is periodic error correction that useful if you have a non-permanent set up and are having to do a fresh polar alignment each night? James
  4. The training seems uniform over the whole field of view, and uniform in nature and not jumpy which might hint at movement artefact from the camera. If this is reliably reproduced on all subs, I would make sure the balance is good, and I would do the polar alignment routine with polemaster twice. I would suggest the issue is a combination of imperfect polar alignment and reaching the limits of the mounts for unguided imaging. James
  5. I’ve put some non-slip fabric in the gap - works a treat.
  6. Can you post a high resolution image with the trails on for us to inspect and give details of the scope, camera, settings you use to image (including sub length) and how you polar align, and if you guide, and whether the trailing occurs in every image in a run or not.
  7. OK. Looks like you are stuck with it as it is then. Thanks for getting back. James
  8. Oh dear. We have a tendency to fiddle with things when there is no need. I am more guilty of this than most.* You seldom need to take anything apart in astronomy to clean it. Show us a picture of what you have and label them in a way that someone can give you meaningful instructions on how to reassemble it all. James * I really should have been a surgeon.
  9. I don't know that mount, but it looks like an EQ5. I think the 150 PDS will be too "big" for the mount. If that is the mount you want, I would go for an 80mm refractor personally. To be honest, I would definately start with a refractor, just so much more compact and easier to look after, at the cost of cost and reduced light capture. Over the course of time, if you stick to astrophotography you will upgrade things, yet a good quality entry level "semi-apo" will be something you'll keep hold of for some time. Good luck with it all, and remember there is no right answer, you just have to ask for advice and pick the bits you like the sound of from all the range of opinions. James
  10. If you mean the metal/plastic dials on the mount itself which can rotate and/or lock, then on the HEQ5 they are pointless, they do not help. Well the ones I've looked at are pointless. On my AZEQ6 the dials properly lock and can be used to set the hour angle when polar aligning, which is actually very helpful if you want a rough and ready polar alignment without getting on your knees. But the fact the circles on the HEQ5 don't fully lock, they are no use what so ever. James
  11. It’s to correct for cone error, or rather reduce your cone error. I wouldn’t worry about it for now. If you are finding your GOTO accuracy is dire and exclude other causes, maybe revisit the topic. Enjoy!
  12. Mount them at the same time, or at different times? Do either of these help? https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/baader-universal-quick-release-finderscope-base.html https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/rother-valley-optics-triple-finderscope-mounting-bracket.html
  13. I’ve never seen or used one of these, but on conventional polar scopes one can screw the “eyepiece” part of the polar scope to improve focus - it’s a balance of the star being in focus as well as the etched reticle being in focus, and for my dodgy eyes neither are perfectly in focus. See if there is something to screw where you look through; use a distant horizon object in the day time to see if it has any effect. James
  14. The precise time/date/altitude/latitude and longitude are just not necessary for a set up which is not permanently mounted AND parked. I wouldn’t bother spending hours trying to get the GPS thing working, rough and ready numbers will be fine (ideally within 10 degrees of your actual location north-south and east-west).
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