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Found 7 results

  1. I recently had one of my most memorable observing sessions to date (REPORT HERE). The reason this session really stood out was due in very large part to having extremely good transparency AND seeing that morning. Just a couple of days ago I had a clear morning and tried to repeat the experience. I did have a nice session, but when I turned my scope back to the planets the transparency was dismal compared to my prior session. I could barely make out any detail on the planets, and views were just not very impressive overall. Now it is not news to me that we are observing through the atmosphere of Earth, and looking out through all that gas is just like looking through water-- it can be anything from mucky and turbulent to crystal-clear and still. This all makes sense to me. My question is this: Are there some conditions I can watch to predict when the transparency and seeing will be good on a given night? Just off the top of my head I can deduce that any smoke or smog present would negatively affect viewing. It also seems like windy conditions would have a detrimental effect (aside from the wobbling it physically causes the scope and equipment). Also I can see how cold air is likely more transparent, as you have less "heat wave" effect. What conditions make for excellent transparency and seeing conditions? What a treat it was to have a clear AND transparent night, and now I want to be able to keep my eye out for more!!
  2. Hi all, last night i had an incredible seeing with a fwhm value of about 0.8 (800mm fl , qhy 8 w 6 megapixel). That is by far the best value i have ever reached. (yes , i am still learning. ..) Questions to the pros on sgl: do we have to have temperatures below 0 centigrade for great seeing? And how is it possible to have great seeing when there is still a lot of humidity in the air? (i do understand that temperatures below freezing are good because there is far less movement in the air and that humidity drops when it starts to freeze. .. but i think there might be more to this???)
  3. Just for a bit of fun yesterday I set up my C8 on my AZ4 and shot some footage of the moon. moonmovie.mp4 or, to save you having to download it, here it is on the bucket: http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/PaulRide/moonmovie_zpskhejuypw.mp4
  4. I found this - http://www.damianpeach.com/seeingscale.htm to be a useful guide to judge the seeing - On a good day recently its a high as 2 for me :-(
  5. Hi all, This is my first post (apart from the one in the welcome section). If my question is not cristal clear, please tell me and i'll turn this differently. Does anybody know about PHD 2's logic to autoguide? Indeed, considering it is often advised not to send corrections too rapidly, e.g. at the same frequency as those high fps camera, because we would end up autoguiding on seeing disturbances and not actual mount errors (e.g. low freq P.E.). So, when setting the correction interval to say, every 1s, what does happen in those autoguiding softwares? I currently foresee two cases: 1) do they calculate the centroid position of the star only on those very shots (every 1s)? 2) do they still calculate the centroid position of the star at the freq. of the camera (say, for 50ms exposure, we'd have an image every ~50ms) and average this over 1s to send the correction every 1s (again, here, 1s is just an example)? In PhD2, the only setting related to this is the "time lapse" in the camera setting. The name of this mode tend to suggest the former case, while I would hope that it would do the latter. Does anyone know what it actually does? And is there any other software that uses the method in case 2)? (which I would prefer) Thanks
  6. Ok, so i had my first run at planetary imaging yesterday evening, which was disappointing to say the least :/ I was trying mars. The setup went smooth, and imaging went ok as well, but the seeing was very bad and especially the heat of the atmosphere was high, which blurred the images to the point that mars' image was not even a sphere (see left image). There are , however, also other probable issues: + Short focal length (800mm) with an 8mm EP, resulting in only medium magnification + problems with focusing the blurred image + missing real astro darkness (24th of june) + days' high was around 28 deg c, although it had cooled down to 22c at imaging time... Have you guys & girls tips on how to improve? The resulting image from stacking 1600 out of 3800 images was a mess, but at least spherical
  7. After a number of poor results with planetary imaging, I am starting to wonder if the apparent poor seeing is caused by the warm air exhaust blowing out of the laptop. I have had the laptop positioned a few feet away from the telescope dewshield and blowing air in that direction. Aiming at Jupiter the dewshield etc is just a couple of feet higher than the laptop. Next time I'll try to remember to put it on the other side of the telescope so it blows air away from it. But there are plenty of other things to think about while I am out there.
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