Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

First Camera Use

Piers127

Recommended Posts

Piers127

Piers127

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have the Sky-Watcher Synscan 127 Mak and after balancing the set-up, tonight I intend to try shooting some stars using my SLR though the T adaptor. I can plug this straight into the OTA and having practiced in daylight know it will focus decently well.

I'm realistic here and know I'll struggle to catch anything of startling quality, but any tips/advice on realistic goals and expectations would be gratefully received!

Thanks,

Piers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jgs001

jgs001

Posted
Posted

Realistically, you're going to be limited to between 30 and 60 second exposures max by the mount and Altitude Azimuth tracking. The scope is f/12 which is quite slow for stars, so I'd suggest sticking to brighter targets, although it's also quite a narrow field of view (http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fov.htm) Try something like M36, it'll fit in the FOV, and may be bright enough. You're going to have to push the ISO on the camera up as high as it'll go though. Capture a sequence of 30 second exposures, I'd start with at least 30, if not 60 of them, then cap the scope and shoot 20 exposures at exactly the same settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jgs001

jgs001

Posted
Posted

Oh I forgot to say, you need to load the picture into deep sky stacker...

the images as lights, and the capped ones as darks, shoot the darks in the garden... it's easy with only 30 second exposures... If you have a shutter release that will help a lot, set mirror lockup and the self timer also, as that will lift the mirror out of the way, then pause for the timer and open the shutter.

I'm guessing the scope has 1.25" fittings, which means you're going to get vignetting... that's easily dealt with using flats (another different type of exposure) do you have a laptop handy ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dave S

Dave S

Posted
Posted

Hi Piers

You mentioned 'balancing the setup' what is it you've balanced?

I ask because the synscan mount has a bit of a weak mesh and the weight of the camera causes the scope to droop when tracking. The dovetail bar on these skywatchers is extremely short so there's not a lot of leyway for balancing for the additional weight. I'm currently experimenting with longer bars for exactly this so please let us know how you get on.

When you do get results from this scope they are pretty good such as this lunar shot I took with the SW102 mak.

5335922164_9b211ff780_b.jpg

Dave...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jgs001

jgs001

Posted
Posted

Dave, the mount is nearly the same as the NexStar SLT, if it's not identical. To help with mine, I removed the scope, and the bolt for the dovetail bracket, then gave the nut a 1/4 or 1/8 turn tighten, it stopped everything slopping. I was using a medium size dovetail and tuberings to mount my scope, so easier to balance. That would be an option, of course, or you could add a weight to the front of the scope somehow to help balance it out. You do want a small tail (camera end) bias to the weight distribution though, to keep the gears engaged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dave S

Dave S

Posted
Posted

I tightened the nut on mine a while back but there's still movement, the dovetail that came is only a measley 3inch one so no room whatsoever for adjustment. I now have a nice foot long bar so there's plenty to work with and the short bar will pair with the dslr for widefield stuff. I also have a 500mm catadioptric lens for the camera (got it s/h for a princely £35) which I'm itching to try.

I'm nearly there. :)

Dave...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Piers127

Piers127

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I balanced the set-up by adjusting the scope along the dovetail bar - mine bar is about nine inches. This means the clutches to engage so the scope will track, albeit slower than before. I do have a laptop but it's ancient, not even usb2.

Sadly since I posted this question we've not had a single clear night, and it looks set to continue. Frustrating!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Piers127

Piers127

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi John,

Thanks, I was pleased! Yes, first decent shot from a few frames taken earlier this evening. No filter used but I did tweak sharpness and saturation a little when I uploaded the file. I have a 4" newt like you, and got this shot of Jupiter the same way, straight into the focus mechanism! I admit it's rubbish, but again, a first try, and that was with no auto-tracking!

post-23802-133877529129_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
drmillrace

drmillrace

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I have the same scope as you and a Canon 550d. I mount mine direct to the back of the scope without the diagonal using the T2 adapter. However I find it a lot easier with the camera connected to my laptop using USB lead and the Canon remote shooting software which came with the camera. With the camera in manual mode and live view shooting enabled on the laptop you can see what's in the viewfinder without crawling on all fours and can magnify the image which helps with focus.

Apologies if you're already doing this.

Cheers

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Piers127

Piers127

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Todd,

I used a Canon 20d with 1.25" t-adaptor for both shots. Jupiter was on my super-cheap 4" newt with its 3x Barlow. The M42 shot was the same camera/adaptor straight into the back of my Skymax 127 Maksutov. 30 sec/1600ISO. I tweaked the saturation and sharpness a little in Preview on my Mac.

I intend to do some more work on that image soon, if it improves I'll post here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
causerino

causerino

Posted
Posted
I also have a 500mm catadioptric lens for the camera (got it s/h for a princely £35) which I'm itching to try.

I'm nearly there. :(

Dave...

Hello Dave,

Can you please do a review of it when you get a chance and also post any photos taken from it? Ive seen a few around I just haven't decided if its worth throwing the money at them!

Cheers,

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jmfdiver

jmfdiver

Posted
Posted
Hello,

I have the same scope as you and a Canon 550d. I mount mine direct to the back of the scope without the diagonal using the T2 adapter. However I find it a lot easier with the camera connected to my laptop using USB lead and the Canon remote shooting software which came with the camera. With the camera in manual mode and live view shooting enabled on the laptop you can see what's in the viewfinder without crawling on all fours and can magnify the image which helps with focus.

Cheers for pointing that out. I too have 550d and never thought of that just loading it onto netbook now

Jen

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dave S

Dave S

Posted
Posted
Hello Dave,

Can you please do a review of it when you get a chance and also post any photos taken from it? Ive seen a few around I just haven't decided if its worth throwing the money at them!

Cheers,

Tom

Hi Tom.

Will do.

Dave...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Piers127

Piers127

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Wow great pic of M42. I am considering a mak 127 - what did it look like through the eye piece? I realise it won't be anything like your picture and will be b/w but would love to know how that scope manages with brighter DSO's.

Through the standard EP M42 is a blueish haze. You can make out some of the general shape but as you mention it's nothing like the photo. Having said that, for a 5" aperture it's not bad at all! I'm guessing you'd need 10" plus to see much more with the naked eye, though I don't think you'd get any more colour for that effort. I'm happy to be corrected!

Piers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
drmillrace

drmillrace

Posted
Posted

Couple taken tonight with 550d attached direct to back of Mak127 and connected to Apple laptop. Focused initially using magnified liveview on laptop screen and then examining test shots and tweaking focus. Turning the focus screw on the Mak gently is a bit of an acquired skill (One I haven't got yet!)

Tweak, tripod shakes, wait, take shot, check it, tweak again and repeat. Real fun with cold fingers!

post-23650-133877529868_thumb.jpg

post-23650-133877529874_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Truly55

Truly55

Posted
Posted
Hi Piers

You mentioned 'balancing the setup' what is it you've balanced?

I ask because the synscan mount has a bit of a weak mesh and the weight of the camera causes the scope to droop when tracking. The dovetail bar on these skywatchers is extremely short so there's not a lot of leyway for balancing for the additional weight. I'm currently experimenting with longer bars for exactly this so please let us know how you get on.

When you do get results from this scope they are pretty good such as this lunar shot I took with the SW102 mak.

5335922164_9b211ff780_b.jpg

Dave...

Holy Cow. That Moon shot is simply stunning. I would be a very happy man to have a shot like that. What am I doing wrong?:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.