QHY268M has arrived

[Xsubmariner]

Hi Guys the much waited for QHY268M has arrived along with CFW3M (7x36mm) and OAGM. The camera looks great and comes with the largest set of adapters I ever received with any camera. 

It felt strange bolting the camera direct to the FW, but was much appreciated given the limited back focus I have with several Flatteners and Reducers. Within the kit 2 layout cards are included that show how to use the adapters to achieve a back focus of 55mm, with either CFW3M or CFW3L and with or without the OAGM.  I am relieved to see QHY have provided “real world” adapters with their camera that will allow most new owners to start using it straight out of the box.

Having the camera secured to the FW will not be a problem for me as I have rotators fitted to most of my imaging equipment, though I can see it not being ideal for everyone. Cleaning the camera widow if dust settles will not be quick, given the FW has to be opened and carousel removed to gain access.  Should one experience dew on the camera window, I noticed a channel in the camera body to allow air to be blown in and a rubber bung fills the hole, when not in use.  I hope this information is of some benefit, now for some clear sky please.

Edited January 31, 2021 by Xsubmariner
Correction

[tooth_dr]

1 minute ago, Xsubmariner said:

Hi Guys the much waited for QHY268M has arrived along with CFW3L (7x36mm) and OAGM. The camera looks great and comes with the largest set of adapters I ever received with any camera. 

It felt strange bolting the camera direct to the FW, but was much appreciated given the limited back focus I have with several Flatteners and Reducers. Within the kit 2 layout cards are included that show how to use the adapters to achieve a back focus of 55mm, with either CFW3M or CFW3L and with or without the OAGM.  I am relieved to see QHY have provided “real world” adapters with their camera that will allow most new owners to start using it straight out of the box.

Having the camera secured to the FW will not be a problem for me as I have rotators fitted to most of my imaging equipment, though I can see it not being ideal for everyone. Cleaning the camera widow if dust settles will not be quick, given the FW has to be opened and carousel removed to gain access.  Should one experience dew on the camera window, I noticed a channel in the camera body to allow air to be blown in and a rubber bung fills the hole, when not in use.  I hope this information is of some benefit, now for some clear sky please.

Brilliant Martin!  You are the winner 😂

Looking forward to your first images. Hopefully the forum will be a good source of information on settings etc and getting most from this new camera.  

[Xsubmariner]

Thanks Adam, I know some members were keen to find out what adapters would be included.

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Wow is that the 1600 next to it in the first pic ?   It looks tiny next to the new camera and filter wheel.

I have the same FW coming soon I hope.
It would be nice to see the camera and FW mounted on the scope.

Thanks for the update 🙂 

Steve

[tooth_dr]

1 hour ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Wow is that the 1600 next to it in the first pic ?   It looks tiny next to the new camera and filter wheel.

Steve

I also couldn’t believe the size of the 2600MC when i opened the box last week. My only experience of ZWO was a 120 and a 290 🤣🤣

[Xsubmariner]

 

1 hour ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Wow is that the 1600 next to it in the first pic ?   It looks tiny next to the new camera and filter wheel.

Yes it is, as the pictures show the QHY camera and FW are substantially larger than the ZWO equipment.

[teoria_del_big_bang]

10 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

I also couldn’t believe the size of the 2600MC when i opened the box last week. My only experience of ZWO was a 120 and a 290 🤣🤣

 

9 hours ago, Xsubmariner said:

Yes it is, as the pictures show the QHY camera and FW are substantially larger than the ZWO equipment.

Those bolt on spacers look pretty hefty as well .

Oh I can see an upgrade to a FeatherTouch focuser coming here 🙂

That filter wheel also looks a lot bigger than my current SX 7X 36mm. But I think it only supposed to be 691g, looks can be deceptive.

ZWO ASI1600MM      410g                 QHY2600M   812g                   +422g
SX  Filter Wheel          700g             QHY Filter Wheel   691g              -9g
Spacers           approx 80g         Bolt on Spacers ?    Guess 200g        +120

So around an extra 550g, actually not that bad if some of my guesses are correct. I find it har to believe its not more than that.

Steve

[teoria_del_big_bang]

14 hours ago, Xsubmariner said:

Having the camera secured to the FW will not be a problem for me as I have rotators fitted to most of my imaging equipment, though I can see it not being ideal for everyone.

What rotators are you using out of interest ?

Steve

[Xsubmariner]

 

8 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

What rotators are you using out of interest ?

Hi Steve, I have a mix of Pyxis LE, Night Crawler and am currently fitting Falcon rotators which has been somewhat delayed as I chase short thread adapters.  The LE is limited as it can only be fitted to a 2” coupling, not ideal for imagery. The NC is integrated with the focuser as a package so limited to OTA by appropriate adapters. The falcon has M54 threaded input and output which integrates nicely with the emergence of M54 in the latest QHY kit and supports larger frame sensors. Unfortunately the lack of easily available thread adapters to connect the imaging components within short back-focus lengths remains a challenge at present, hopefully this situation will improve as M54 usage increases.

[Starflyer]

Are the M54 spacers threaded and can they be used as the final output connection?  The connection to my Tak needs to be M54, I was thinking; camera / filterwheel / OAG / M54 spacers to take me to 55mm / Tak M54 threaded adapter.

I thought the CFW3L was only available in 7 x 2", have they released a 7 x 36mm version?

 

Edited January 30, 2021 by Starflyer

[Xsubmariner]

2 hours ago, Starflyer said:

Are the M54 spacers threaded

The only spacer that is threaded for M54 is this one and I measured ( engineers ruler) it at 4mm which isn’t aligned with the diagrams. 

2 hours ago, Starflyer said:

I thought the CFW3L was only available in 7 x 2", have they released a 7 x 36mm version?

You are correct my bad, the filter wheel is the Medium not Large, was getting confused with my Q600 kit. Don’t seem to be able to edit the post at present to correct 🤔

[Dixie]

Hmm, I can't see any M54 threaded spaces - the only one with a thread I can see in what I've got today steps it down to M48 female.  Typical, I've just bought a M54 male filter wheel adapter based on what is clearly mistaken info. 

 

[Dixie]

Sorry take that back.  Just discovered it another box - yes there is a M54 female threaded spacer which can serve as the output to a filter wheel. Apologies.   To help others here's a comparison of size - the QHY268 and Atik 460EX

Edited February 1, 2021 by Dixie
Add picture.

[smr]

I've just seen a 10 minute sub of the Rosette Nebula with the QHY268M, from Bortle 9, which packs more detail than 6 hours integration with my DSLR in a Bortle 5. 

😮

Edited February 2, 2021 by smr

[teoria_del_big_bang]

1 minute ago, smr said:

I've just seen a 10 minute sub of the Rosette Nebula with the QHY268M, from Bortle 9, which packs more detail than 6 hours integration with my DSLR in a Bortle 5. 

😮

Can you share it ?

Steve

[smr]

Just now, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Can you share it ?

Steve

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/753265-received-my-qhy268m/page-3

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Mind you never mind Bortle 9 I need it to be able to see through snow clouds at moment 🙂 

Steve

[Spongey]

My camera arrived yesterday and looks great, it is a big beast though! Very well packaged from MA so top marks there.

I've attached a few photos:

 

Filters are Baader LRGB, and Antlia 3nm PRO Ha, Oiii (waiting on this one), and Sii.

I managed to build my bias and dark library overnight too, and have attached some files if anyone wants to poke around. Each stack is 50 subframes. I've never used a cooled camera like this before but they look good to me, with minimal fixed pattern noise and few hot pixels.

Looking forward to first light with my first foray into mono imaging!! 

Cheers

Gain 56 Offset 10 Master Bias.xisf Gain 0 Offset 10 Master Bias.xisf Gain 56 Offset 10 300s Master Dark.xisf Gain 0 Offset 10 180s Master Dark.xisf

[teoria_del_big_bang]

36 minutes ago, Spongey said:

I managed to build my bias and dark library overnight too,

Do you think we should be using Bias frames with this camera ?
I never used them with the 1600 as most people said that CMOS cameras gave unstable bias frames and to use just darks and flats that have been calibrated with dark flats.

Steve 

[Spongey]

5 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Do you think we should be using Bias frames with this camera ?
I never used them with the 1600 as most people said that CMOS cameras gave unstable bias frames and to use just darks and flats that have been calibrated with dark flats.

Steve 

It is a good question and one I'm not sure of the answer to just yet.

I'll be building a flat library tonight and will also take some flat darks to compare with the bias frames. My understanding is that flat darks are preferable to bias frames with cameras that have unusual very short exposure effects (e.g. ASI1600). When dark current is negligible (which it is at -10c) and the camera is stable at very short exposures, bias and flat dark frames are essentially identical. From what I have seen and read, people with the QHY600 / ZWO6200 have been using bias frames over flat darks with no issues. I would hope that the IMX571 would be similar in this regard. 

In any case shooting off 50 bias frames doesn't take long!

[teoria_del_big_bang]

All good information, thanks 🙂 

Steve

[Endolf]

I'm one of the other recipients, mine arrived Friday. It's a beast :).

I went for the 36mm FW (which I also have for my zwo 1600), got a set of Astronomik filters, I got the Antlia filters too (3nm Ha and SII, had to get the 3.5nm OIII as there was only 1 3.5nm OIII at the distributors and was already taken). I will replace the ZWO narrowband filters with one of these sets depending on what I choose to keep with the new camera. I tried taking some flats, just to get an idea of the exposure time difference v.s. the 1600 and zwo filters. I was getting some terrible artefacts. Through trial and error I narrowed it down getting light round the edges of the Antlia filters, so I "borrowed" the filter masks from the ZWO setup and the problem went away. Took me most of Saturday to figure that one out. The Astronomik filters don't seem to exhibit the issue, I'm assuming that's due to the semi mounted nature of their 36mm filters.

I've installed the Astronomik CLS CCD in the Lum slot as I did on my 1600 and I've got the ZWO 7nm Ha, Astronomik 6nm Ha and all 3 of the Antlia filters installed, so I'm planning on getting a comparison between the ZWO, Astronomik and Antlia Ha filters the next clear sky I get. I'm guessing due to the difference in bandpass I'll need different gain settings to keep the exposure time down and the levels the same. Or I can keep everything the same and do a comparison in post processing. Hoping to get at least 12x300s on each filter.

Edited February 2, 2021 by Endolf
Shrink pictures

[smr]

Thinking of buying the QHY268M and taking a quantum leap upgrade

I'd go for the QHYCFW3-M-US (7 X 36MM) Filter Wheel

This works out at £2k, which is my budget, and doing so I may as well spend a few hundred quid more and buy some filters as well.

What is the difference between the Baader LRGB and LRGBC Filter set and which one would I need to go for ?

Also what's the difference between the Baader and Astronomik LRGB set, both sets are around the same price...

Or... can anyone recommend a good set of LRGB filters? I can't afford more than £500 so Chroma and Astrodon aren't viable options, and the cheaper the better but not cheap cheap, so around £350ish would be good.

And last but not least will all of this work with my Z73 Refractor ? 

I'll buy a ZWO EAF when they're back in stock so I can automate focusing.

Astronomik https://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/astronomik-deep-sky-rgb-filters.html

Baader https://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/baader-lrgbc-ccd-filter-set.html

[teoria_del_big_bang]

The luminance filter will block IR whereas the C or clear filter is just clear glass.

The idea is that is that the C filter does not affect the light reaching the sensor but keeps everything parfocal with your other filters so you do not need to refocus or change the back focus (albeit on 1mm or less).
But I have always used the L filter to obtain luminance as I assume you should have some IR blocking, but after saying that I have an IR blocking in my LP filter inside the flattener anyway, I think I just assumed having two would make no difference, but I guess I maybe should use the clear filter, actually I really not sure.

The only difference I know f between the Astronomik and Baader are the transmission graphs are slightly different.
Baader have less of a crossover between the 3 colours whereas Astronoimik the Blue and Red share a bit more of the green wavelengths. So I am no expert but assume the Baaders will give a bit more contrast between the colours and the Astronomiks may be slightly softer, but whether that is noticeable or not I have no idea.
 

Regarding your WO Z73 I would be a bit worried that all that weight may be too much for the stock focuser. I own one but my QHY268 will be going on my Esprit 100ED and was worried I may have to upgrade the stock focusser on that but hoping not.
But like I say it is just a concern and the Z73  may be okay.
Why don't you email Rupert at Astrograph he really gave me good advice and replied very promptly.

Steve

Edited February 2, 2021 by teoria_del_big_bang

[teoria_del_big_bang]

42 minutes ago, smr said:

Thinking of buying the QHY268M and taking a quantum leap upgrade

I'd go for the QHYCFW3-M-US (7 X 36MM) Filter Wheel

This works out at £2k, which is my budget, and doing so I may as well spend a few hundred quid more and buy some filters as well.

What is the difference between the Baader LRGB and LRGBC Filter set and which one would I need to go for ?

Also what's the difference between the Baader and Astronomik LRGB set, both sets are around the same price...

Or... can anyone recommend a good set of LRGB filters? I can't afford more than £500 so Chroma and Astrodon aren't viable options, and the cheaper the better but not cheap cheap, so around £350ish would be good.

And last but not least will all of this work with my Z73 Refractor ? 

I'll buy a ZWO EAF when they're back in stock so I can automate focusing.

Astronomik https://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/astronomik-deep-sky-rgb-filters.html

Baader https://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/baader-lrgbc-ccd-filter-set.html

If you are only getting the LRGB filters why not go for the colour version of this camera it has had some fantastic reviews, or are you hoping to go NB later on ?
The colour camera will keep another 800g or so weight off the focuser.

Steve