Objective lens cleaning services

[hawksquawks]

Hello I made topic regarding my telescope cleaning mishap a few days ago. While cleaning i split liquid onto the lens and some of it managed to get between the cells although I have managed to resolve the misting ETC it's left very noticeable streaks between the cells mostly around the edges of the lens. Being an OCD person I would like to get this cleaned, but alas I don't have the level of experience I would be willing to chance on my 120mm refractor. Does anyone know of any professional services that will clean the cells but also collimate the cells also?       

[John]

The only one that I know of is Steve Collingwood:

https://sctelescopes.com/sc-telescopes-broadhurst-clarkson-and-fuller-fullerscopes/

 

[hawksquawks]

4 minutes ago, John said:

The only one that I know of is Steve Collingwood:

https://sctelescopes.com/sc-telescopes-broadhurst-clarkson-and-fuller-fullerscopes/

 

Thanks I did send this guy an email on Friday hoping for a quote I never got a response I suspect due to current events. if you have had experience with him before do you know what sort of cost i would be looking at?

 

[John]

1 hour ago, hawksquawks said:

Thanks I did send this guy an email on Friday hoping for a quote I never got a response I suspect due to current events. if you have had experience with him before do you know what sort of cost i would be looking at?

 

I don't have any experience with him personally but I know that he is well regarded by those who have used his services.

I don't know what the cost might be. If you want the objective collimated then he will need the whole of the optical tube so shipping and insurance costs will come into play.

 

 

[jock1958]

I contacted Steve Collingwood 3 years ago about the collimation of my Tal 100rs.

He offered to check it out for me including a bench test for £40, I didn’t ask him about lens cleaning though. 

If I had been living closer I would have taken him up on the offer, but decided against that due to the cost and risk of posting it from South Wales. 

 

 

[Waldemar]

Having it collimated and send back, will ruin the collimation anyway..

Cleaning a mirror is not a very difficult job, you just need to be careful:  Cleaning solution.docx

 

[John]

53 minutes ago, Waldemar said:

Having it collimated and send back, will ruin the collimation anyway..

Cleaning a mirror is not a very difficult job, you just need to be careful:  Cleaning solution.docx

 

This is a 120mm refractor we are discussing. In this case the objective will need to be removed and the elements split because cleaning fluid from a previous clean has seeped between the lens elements. 

 

[Waldemar]

1 minute ago, John said:

This is a 120mm refractor we are discussing. In this case the objective will need to be removed and the elements split because cleaning fluid from a previous clean has seeped between the lens elements. 

 

🤭🤫

[Neil H]

Orion Optics do telescope servicing but may just be reflectors but may be worth asking 

[DaveL59]

you could give these guys a try, they're well regarded also I believe.

http://binocular-repair.co.uk

As John has said, you'd need to ship the OTA complete if you want it collimating, or take it there yourself if you'd prefer/if practical. I know I wouldn't really want to be shipping my TAL100RS unless I really had to.

Is the collimation on yours OK as it is and its just the streaks that are bothering you?

At the risk of making many toes curling, can you not simply remove the objective cell and rinse through with isopropyl and then demineralised water and let it dry off thoroughly? Not ideal but if it removes the streaks and gives clear lenses it might be worth a go.

[jock1958]

@hawksquawksIf you decide on a DIY job I would err on the extreme side of caution and get as much info before removing and splitting the lens cells!
I did just that with my Tal 100rs when a foil shim came adrift between the lens cells, I spent months fiddling and faffing with the collimation and it’s still not 💯!

[hawksquawks]

Thanks for all the advice I will skip collimation, looking into it on youtube it appears pretty simple using a laser.  here is a picture in the damage between the cells, it goes all around the out optics but this is the worst place. 

[DaveL59]

if it were me and there's no effect on the viewing I would leave it alone but keep an eye in case you see any deterioration around the edge - as in signs of rusting from the lens cell or fungus build up. Given there was soap/detergent in the mix used, if that would add fuel for fungal issues I don't know but exposure to sunlight/UV will help there to keep it in check.

You may find that over time with future cleans that the streaks will fade if small quantity seeps by the edge, assuming you only use proper lens cleaning fluid from now, though hopefully you'll be using fluids more sparingly now  .

Collimation I can't comment as I've not messed with my TAL and don't plan to unless something happens to require, but I expect it could be quite frustrating and you also need to watch you don't pinch the optics too. Might be easier than shimming prisms in old binoculars but somehow I expect a lot of patience and care and loads of time would still be required.

[jock1958]

Looking at your photo I would be tempted to leave it, I bet it will have a negligible effect on your views.

Lots of good info on this forum reference lens cleaning and adjusting collimation if the OCD gets the better of you! 

Good luck! 

[Peter Drew]

Attempting to improve the cosmetic appearance from something that is going to have no affect on the performance is a slippery slope and could result in circumstances that could have a significant impact on performance.  I'd advise leaving well alone unless you intend to sell it on at some stage, however I don't bear the cross of OCD.       🙂 

[hawksquawks]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I will leave it alone for the time being TBH my 90mm is far worst and appears to be riddled with fungus and that's not had any affect on views currently, anyway more on that in a separate post. as for the current scope I will take steps to reduce the risk of fungal buildup by leaving it in the sun, I guess setting up a good couple of hours before dark each night and point the scope towards the sun will keep it in check?  Ill see how it performs over the coming weeks and I decide were to go based on that, of course with the current covid crisis ill likely need to wait before i could get it cleaned anyway.       

[johnturley]

17 hours ago, John said:

The only one that I know of is Steve Collingwood:

https://sctelescopes.com/sc-telescopes-broadhurst-clarkson-and-fuller-fullerscopes/

 

I don't think that Steve offers this service any more. 

You could try Rother Valley Optics, I know that they offer a collimation service, not sure about cleaning.

John 

[DaveL59]

8 minutes ago, hawksquawks said:

Thanks everyone for the advice, I will leave it alone for the time being TBH my 90mm is far worst and appears to be riddled with fungus and that's not had any affect on views currently, anyway more on that in a separate post. as for the current scope I will take steps to reduce the risk of fungal buildup by leaving it in the sun, I guess setting up a good couple of hours before dark each night and point the scope towards the sun will keep it in check?  Ill see how it performs over the coming weeks and I decide were to go based on that, of course with the current covid crisis ill likely need to wait before i could get it cleaned anyway.       

ooh no, please do not point the scope at the sun! You could seriously overheat the optics if not careful, not to mention other risks like starting a fire. It's enough that natural light is entering it so that UV permeates the lens, so leaving it open but at say 30 degrees behind the sun should do fine. You'd be ok to do this once in a while rather than every day too, and let it air well before sealing it up after a session so no moisture is trapped in the OTA/lenses.

[kirkster501]

Is it oil or air filled primary objective?  If it is air filled you can mark where the lenses join, separate them to let them dry and put them back EXACTLY like they were before.  You use a peice of masking tape and make a very fine line so that you can do this.

Oil filled and it has to go back to manufacturer or a professional at this.

All that said, looking at your lens - from that picture at least -  I would leave it the hell alone.  A tiny bit at the edge will make no difference at all.  OCD has no place when it comes to telescopes and cleaning and you need to learn this right now.

[John]

1 hour ago, kirkster501 said:

Is it oil or air filled primary objective?  If it is air filled you can mark where the lenses join, separate them to let them dry and put them back EXACTLY like they were before.  You use a peice of masking tape and make a very fine line so that you can do this.

Oil filled and it has to go back to manufacturer or a professional at this.

All that said, looking at your lens - from that picture at least -  I would leave it the hell alone.  A tiny bit at the edge will make no difference at all.  OCD has no place when it comes to telescopes and cleaning and you need to learn this right now.

Its a 120 refractor so a standard air spaced doublet. I'm guessing that it is either the Evostar 120 F/8.3 or the Startravel 120 F/5.

 

[hawksquawks]

1 hour ago, John said:

Its a 120 refractor so a standard air spaced doublet. I'm guessing that it is either the Evostar 120 F/8.3 or the Startravel 120 F/5.

 

I am not sure what scope it is I purchased it off eBay £125 I was mostly after a mount then I saw this listing so could not go wrong for the price. if anyone want's to ID the scope feel free.   

[hawksquawks]

Okay I have been out and tested the scope I took a photo with my DSLR, the chromatic aberration is very bad in photos but not bad at all using an eyepiece can this be explained?

[John]

3 hours ago, hawksquawks said:

I am not sure what scope it is I purchased it off eBay £125 I was mostly after a mount then I saw this listing so could not go wrong for the price. if anyone want's to ID the scope feel free. 

Skywatcher Evostar 120 on the EQ3-2 mount. I owned one just like it once.

It has a collimatable objective cell which makes collimation at least possible with this type.

It seems to be missing it's finder scope ?

[hawksquawks]

2 minutes ago, John said:

Skywatcher Evostar 120 on the EQ3-2 mount. I owned one just like it once.

Thanks at least i know what scope this is now. would you say £125  was a good price to pay for it? also i uploaded an image just above takes with the scope I am not sure is the chromatic aberration is excessive with a DSLR, looking with an eyepiece it all appeared fine.  

[John]

On the mount, yes the price was good if the optics were OK when you purchased it. The scopes do show some CA visually but it's not too bad. The bright streetlight will show it worse than most astro targets. 

I don't image myself so I can't comment on that.