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Complete beginner here, with this being my first post to the forum.
I recently bought my first scope and I've had a couple nights so far with just viewing. I've now decided to try my hand at utilising my camera and hoping to try stack images and get a decent shot of the moon. The issue I'm having at the moment is that I can't seem to get the moon fully in frame. Using a T ring adapter and Barlow lens attached to my scope I'm essentially cropping out edges of the moon, however when I remove the actual barlow lens and use only the adapter, T ring and my scope as the prime, I can't seem to focus.
This may be a pretty basic issue, so apologies, I haven't had much luck with google yet. I'm unsure if I require some sort of reducer or if I'm perhaps overlooking something.
For reference I'm using the following:
Celestron 130 EQ Fujifilm XT3 (APS-C) Barlow adapter/lens Kipon T2 Adapter for Fuji
Really appreciate any guidance or advice you can offer.
I'm on an EQ3 and I have had trouble calibrating it.
I'm trying to calibrate the reticule but ....
It seems that barrel of the polarscope is off axis in the tube - it sort of moves the whole image around, as if you were swirling a pair of binoculars around.
Maybe I can make a video.
Is it time for me to buy a fresh one that I didn't meddle with?
The outcome is that I can only shoot 20second images before the stars elongate.
I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts
My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?
If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn