Old timer Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 (edited) I have been into photography for most of my adult life and now I`ve slowed down somewhat I fancy a bit of star gazing (that`s probably the wrong word to use) anyway, can`t spend fortunes at present but wonder what you people think of something like this scope http://www.picstop.co.uk/reflector-telescopes/celestron-astromaster-130eq-astrotelescope.html I live in rural Norfolk, out in the countryside and if I turn all of the house outside lights off then it`s fairly dark here. I was also wondering (being a photographer) what kind of scope would be needed to be able to shoot images or video or am I getting way above my head. Thanks for your time Dave Edited November 25, 2016 by Old timer added thankyou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putaendo Patrick Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 For astrophotography it's often said that the mount is more important than the telescope. As you need to take long exposures, or more often multiple images which are then stacked using computer software, you need a mount which is capable of tracking the stars etc. as the Earth rotates and the stars appear to move across the sky. A basic version of this sort of mount will cost around 400 pounds new and will give reasonable results with a small telescope. However, if you use a larger, heavier telescope or want more precision, you may need to spend a lot more. A 130mm reflector telescope is a good starter which will work well on a large range of targets. However you will get better resolution, magnification and the ability to see fainter objects with larger aperture - so a 150mm or 200mm telescope would give improved views. The Celestron you link to is certainly not bad - but, personally I don't like the built-in red dot finder. I'm not sure, but I also suspect the primary mirror is spherical - parabolic would be an improvement. Although more expensive, I would recommend this similar Skywatcher over the Celestron, with better finder and parabolic mirror: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130p.html However, there is also another version which has an improved focuser and is optimised for photography: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130p-ds-ota.html This is just the telescope and you will need a mount, so cost is going up! But if you are thinking of astrophotography in the future, you might want to invest in a suitable telescope from the start. If you decide against photography, you might also consider a Dobsonian reflector such as: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-150p-dobsonian.html These are very simple to set up and represent excellent value for money. There are also cheaper table-top Dobsonians, such as https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-heritage-100p-tabletop-dobsonian.html You will be limited somewhat by the smaller aperture, but these are well-made telescopes and might allow you to see if astronomy is the hobby for you before spending more money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterCPC Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Have a think about what sort of budget you want to commit to this as it will narrow it down a bit. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigT82 Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Hi Dave, That scope is a popular beginners scope and is of generally good quality. The mount it's supplied with is a german equatorial mount (GEM or EQ mount for short). Most types of astro-photography require a GEM as the mount will rotate one one axis to follow the rotation of the sky (actually the Earth but you know what I mean). This particular GEM will move manually, i.e. you need to twiddle a know to get it to move. Other GEMs have a motor drive attached to one or both axis' which allow the scope to automatically track the stars across the sky at the correct rate... these are the mounts which will make any type of astro-photography much easier. This scope/mount combo is available with a single axis motor drive for an extra £20, which will be well worth it in my opinion. The tracking function allows you to take longer exposures, and you should be able to take basic images (emphasis on the basic) of deep sky objects using a DSLR and necessary attachment. You will also be able to get images of the moon and planets using a webcam or planetary camera. Alternatively you can use a compact camera or smartphone to snap the images you can see through the eyepiece (usually only any good for the moon). Here's a link to the motorised version on this forum's sponsors website. If you intend to use a DSLR to take images you'd be best to contact them to ask if you will be able to achieve focus with a DSLR with this scope, as not being able to reach focus with a DSLR is a common issue with newtonians. FLO are very good and will be able to help out. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-astromaster-series/celestron-astromaster-130eq-telescope.html Please be aware that although photography with this set up is possible, the images you'll be able to produce with it will be very limited. As with photography, If you want better images you need to spend more money! Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uranium235 Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 If youre already an experienced photographer, then you may already have a lens capable of the task that you can mount on a suitable GEM like a star adventurer (lenses only), EQ5 (entry level), or HEQ5 (for future proofing). There is an awful lot you can do with a fairly speedy lens (f4 or below) that has a decent enough focal length (135, 200mm or higher... primes only, avoid zooms). Depends on what glass you already have in your kit bag i guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight of Clear Skies Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Some good thoughts above. As others have said, neither that scope or mount are really designed for astrophotography. That said, at least one user has managed to get some decent results using a DSLR, but it would be difficult to recommend this approach (more of a case of, if if that's the kit someone has then by all means have a go with it, rather than the best use of funds if they were starting from scratch). There are some good budget options available. If you have a laptop, a webcam can work well for lunar and planetary imaging. Another approach is to take Milky Way and constellation shots with a DSLR on a fixed tripod, I have some example images and tips here if this interests you. The next step would be to put the camera on a tracking mount, a camera and lens offers more bang-per-buck than trying to image with a 'scope. There are some big DSOs up there that don't necessarily require a long focal length to reach. This was one of my early shots with a 135mm lens, (modded) DSLR and EQ3 tracking mount: The North America & Pelican Nebulae in Cygnus. It's about 12 minutes total exposure time in 2 minute subs. Hope that's some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4N Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 The scope you have linked is a good starter scope and much like what I started out with. It should give nice visual views but it won't be very good for imaging. I would also recommend using lenses you already have for imaging first, it will be much easier to start with than a scope as when you start to increase the focal length guiding accuracy becomes critical. You need a way to get the camera to track the sky though, something like a star adventurer would be good for this. It would also be possible to piggyback you camera on your tube rings if you get the 130eq then use a RA drive (or manual guiding through the scope!) but this will likely be more difficult as that mount is hard to polar align well and does not offer great stability for imaging. If you don't mind a challenge it could be worth a try Some targets are mainly Ha (hydrogen alpha emissions that are at the IR end of red) though and a normal camera will filter out the majority of their light. If you have an old camera you could modify it by removing the IR filter to allow that light to be captured by the sensor. Below is 29 x 15 second exposures with a 50mm prime lens at f1.8. Galaxies are broad spectrum so a good choice of target for a camera that still has an IR blocking filter in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old timer Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 1 hour ago, D4N said: The scope you have linked is a good starter scope and much like what I started out with. It should give nice visual views but it won't be very good for imaging. I would also recommend using lenses you already have for imaging first, it will be much easier to start with than a scope as when you start to increase the focal length guiding accuracy becomes critical. You need a way to get the camera to track the sky though, something like a star adventurer would be good for this. It would also be possible to piggyback you camera on your tube rings if you get the 130eq then use a RA drive (or manual guiding through the scope!) but this will likely be more difficult as that mount is hard to polar align well and does not offer great stability for imaging. If you don't mind a challenge it could be worth a try Some targets are mainly Ha (hydrogen alpha emissions that are at the IR end of red) though and a normal camera will filter out the majority of their light. If you have an old camera you could modify it by removing the IR filter to allow that light to be captured by the sensor. Below is 29 x 15 second exposures with a 50mm prime lens at f1.8. Galaxies are broad spectrum so a good choice of target for a camera that still has an IR blocking filter in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old timer Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 Well after reading the superb replies it is very clear that there is more to this than meets the eye (no pun intended) Of course i had forgotten that we are on the move and of course there has to be some sort of tracking which opens up a whole new ballgame. I don`t think this can be done on a shoe string (well, not and get satisfaction from it) I need to rethink, maybe using my existing camera gear to get some images might be a better way to get involved. Shame that I sold most of my heavy wide aperture pro lenses to cut down weight as my old knees get older. I have a Canon 6D still with17-40 f4, 85 1.8 and 70-300 f4-5.6 but I also have a panasonic G7 with a few lenses (7-14 Olympus( 2.8 equi to 14-28) etc etc. This is a shot I took with an older Canon http://www.pbase.com/davechilvers/image/75137994/original some years back. a rethink is in order me thinks, thanks all for ideas and taking the time Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putaendo Patrick Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 A simple and economical option to start might be a homemade "barndoor" used with your Canon. It's a basic way to achieve some tracking. Google astronomy and barndoor - lots of DIY guides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4N Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 I would thoroughly recommend Making Every Photon Count as it is a supurb book that explains all the details you need to know t get started. Or you could just spend plenty of time reading this forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy-kat Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 With a static mount you can have a go at startrails, this one I did this evening though really shows I should have taken some flats to deal with the vignetting (battery ran out before I could take any) I also have made a barn door tracker see signature. the Bright star bottom middle is Vega. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy-kat Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 This image was with my home made manual barn door tracker. Canon 1100d with the 85mm f1.8 at f4. From memory 20 odd lights, darks and bias frames stacked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy-kat Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 That's a lovely crisp eclipse shot you took and nicely showing surrounding stars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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