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Hi there! I’m looking forward towards purchasing a new wide FOV eyepiece from FLO (first light Optics ) and I do to know which one to pick!
i will be using it on my f/6 8” Skywatcher dob and hoping to get good views of the Orion’s nebula , (large nebulae in general) andromeda and others.
I ve heard the panaview 32mm is a good choice but I d like to know about the other options as well. I would like the budget to be around 100€
Clear skies, Kronos.
The Knowle Astronomical Society is holding a
PUBLIC STARGAZING & BEGINNERS EVENING
On Monday 7th October 2019 at 8pm at
Dorridge Village Hall, Grange Road, B93 8QA
If the weather isn't favourable (what are the chances?) we will set up a few 'scopes in the hall to show people and we will also be giving a beginners talk in the hall and, who knows, maybe we'll recruit a few new members. Light refreshments will be available throughout the evening.
Sooo after coming back from holidays(have been gone for a month and a half) i discovered that i had forgotten to use the lens caps to protect my Panaview 32mm from dust....
turns out, its dirty.Me having no idea what a "multiple element lens eyepiece " meant , learnt the hard way. I unscrewed the bottom part of the eyepiece and 2 lenses and a tiny ring came out... not knowing in how to put them in, tried a bunch of different ways, and still the eyepiece view was still bad.(couldnt even focus on daylight objects) after messing with it for a bit 3-5 more lenses came out. Now my 100$ eyepiece is totally screwed up and i have No idea how to fix it. I m panicking so much and i have absolutely no idea what to do. I hope i ddnt screw the lens up...
if anyone thinks they can help me, i m gonna make a system in which you can tell me how to put the lenses back
So lets name the first group of parts depending on their place from left to right : A(The first lens ), B(the ring) and C( The Thrid lens) , now, these i have no idea how to place them correctly (have in mind that A Is curved , if it gives you any information)
The next 4 pieces you see are D(The thick ring), E(The big lens) F (the other ring) and G(the final lens)
Here is a picture of each piece from both up side and bottom side
First will be up and second would be down
If anyone could give me instructions to as how i can put everything back together , i would be greatful
(Uploading pictures in a bit)
Hey guys! Its been 8 months since i ve started the hobby of astronomy.I would like to dig deeper now,i am looking for a book in astrophysics that involves mostly formulas and mathematics.With so many books in the market its hard to defferentiate science books from just books with information about the subject
I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
Thanks in advance,