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What Scope to Buy?


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So I currently have two telescopes. The Celestron Powerseeker 127eq, and the NexStar 90slt Computerized. The 127eq is pretty trash, mainly because of its mount/tripod, but the other scope has done pretty well, despite it's seemingly low aperture. I want to get really into both astrophotography and astronomy, so I want to get one of two different types of scopes. I either want to get a 8-inch dobsonian, which is essentially useless for astrophotography, or get a nice equatorial mount and pursue astrophotography. The problem arises when i have to choose a very powerful scope that is only useful for observing, or a less powerful scope that Is geared for astrophotography.

Basically I'm asking which way I should lean towards and for any relatively cheap options I could choose from. I want to do long-exposure astrophotography but It just seems so expensive getting a high aperture scope that is not a dobsonian style. It is probably worth mentioning that I like to boast my work in astronomy/astrophotography, but my family generally aren't interested enough to come outside and look through the telescope at various objects. This makes astrophotography good for that sort-of thing.

My budget is 550$, although I REALLY don't want to spend nearly that much. I already have a nice DSLR camera, as well as the equipment required to adapt the camera to a 1.25" eyepeice holster, so purchasing a camera is not an issue.

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Hi there, you can get a scope and mount that you can use for imaging and also observing. I have a 150pds on a HEQ5 PRO and gives very good views, its also excellent for imaging. If you wanted to save month you could buy 150pds on an eq3-2 or what id personally do, buy the HEQ5 PRO because its amazing and get a 130pds which is the smaller version. Hope that helps.

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The thing is, I feel like if I get one of those 150mm scopes I'm eventually going to fall for my thirst for aperture and end up wanting another scope. Essentially I just want to be able to take those amazing pictures taken by amateur astronomers on a relatively cheap budget. The HEQ5 PRO Is way out of my price range, but if its truly a necessity I can save up. 

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Well, you will want more aperture eventually, but like you said you're on a budget. I'd love a 12" dob but I don't have the money at the moment, but until then I still enjoy the views from my 150pds. 

The first mount I had was a Celestron CG4 (same as eq3-2) and it worked pretty good for imaging with the 150pds but its no where as accurate as my HEQ5 but its a good starter mount if this is your first telescope setup. 

Have a look at some of my astroimages http://www.flickr.com/photos/gino97/ some are taken with the cg4 and all of them are with 150pds.

 

 

 

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37 minutes ago, Herzy said:

 I either want to get a 8-inch dobsonian, which is essentially useless for astrophotography,

The classic 8" may be pants for proper Astrophotography, but there are GoTo systems that can track, and would work very well, but its a minefield as to what's available, suitable and affordable down the photography route.

A good read here http://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html 

A 150-250mm Dobsonian would make for a good visual scope, whereas a decent 80mm scope can take some incredible imagery?

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Hi I have an EQ6 with a 10 inch skywatcher on it and I want to do some astrophotography, I was looking a the canon 1200 but I don't want to spend over £250.Do you have any suggestions.

Also could someone give me a list of the parts I would need to attach it to my scope, I know I need a ring adapter, but what is the best software.

Thanks

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Just now, Lucasjohn said:

Hi I have an EQ6 with a 10 inch skywatcher on it and I want to do some astrophotography, I was looking a the canon 1200 but I don't want to spend over £250.Do you have any suggestions.

Also could someone give me a list of the parts I would need to attach it to my scope, I know I need a ring adapter, but what is the best software.

Thanks

I shoot Nikon and dont know about canons but one thing you'll need is a coma corrector. 

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Just now, Lucasjohn said:

I'm new to this hobby so anything helps, thanks I will research that then.

no worries, for software BackyardEOS can be used which I think is quite popular. It allows live-view for focusing etc (if the camera allows it) and you can take photos from the laptop. If you live in a light polluted area you will also need a filter.

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Have a look at these photos by Nigel Metcalfe at Durham University:

http://community.dur.ac.uk/nigel.metcalfe/astro/slt_canon.php

These were taken through a Nexstar 102, a refractor only a little larger than the Mak you have. But, more importantly, a good number of these were taken using exactly the same mount as you already have. The point is that with a minimum expenditure on connecting rings and thingies (other people know, I don't I'm afraid) you could be well on the way to taking photographs almost as good as these. Meanwhile you could learn a lot about processing software (most of it is free!).

And if the bug bites, as it probably will, you can save some more money for a really good mount and look for an OTA based on your experience and interests. And if not, get the biggest Dobsonian light bucket you can afford and are able to move!

If you take off the quirky rail on the Powerseeker 127 and replace it with a Vixen dovetail bar, you should be able to mount it on the Nexstar - and you can send the PS mount to Charic for him to destroy :crybaby2:

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Could you give me some insight on how you get those pictures? Do you take short exposures and stack, or long exposures..? So far I still don't have a set plan as to what to do to further my astrophotography experience. Those pictures you just showed inspired me but all the pictures are about 600s, is that 600 consecutive seconds of taking a picture, or multiple semi-short exposure pictures stacked? IDK, astrophotography is a complicated process, but the rewards are tremendous!

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It's not uncommon to do 5mins or 10mins exposures in deep sky imaging. Shorter exposures (sub second) are usually reserved for bright objects like moon and planets. However - some dso's need a variety of shots of different lengths to capture particular features. You may choose to shoot 5 or 10 mins to get the fainter parts of M42, and then do some shorter exposures of maybe 20 or 30secs to capture the brighter core in more detail.

Then combine and align them (called stacking), add in bias, darks, and flats, and finally process them in Photoshop. That's a rough idea - best thing to do is get a copy of "Making Every Photon Count" by Steve Richards. A great book that will tell you all you need to know about astro imaging in an easy to read format.

Most of the software to do this is free to down load or cheap to subscribe - look up Registax, Deep Sky Stacker, Phd (for guiding), Backyard EOS, and/or APT (astro photography tool), and Gimp (for processing). That's just a few popular tools. Hth :)

 

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3 hours ago, aeajr said:

I am going to ask a question of those knowledgeable in AP.

Would it make sense for Herzy to spend most of his budget on a good AP mount and then mount his 127 onto it?   Wouldn't that give him a start while he saves up for an optimized AP telescope?   From what I read it seems like many people do their AP with 80 to 100 mm refractors.    

This gives him a good mount which will better handle the 127eq, set him up for AP and give AP a try with that set-up.

What do you think of that approach?

I would say that the mount is more important than the scope - in a way. Let's put it that way - even the best scope will give poor or non-existent in this case results if the mount is not fit for the task. A mediocre scope equipped with a good mount, however, is a different story.

Also, it is much easier and cheaper to upgrade the OTA than it is to upgrade the mount. ( in most cases )

I'm not an expert in AP myself, but to answer your question - yes, I think that would be the logical course of action. If you're serious about AP, already have a decent scope and are on a budget - get a good mount, worry about the scope later.

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9 hours ago, Herzy said:

The thing is, I feel like if I get one of those 150mm scopes I'm eventually going to fall for my thirst for aperture and end up wanting another scope. Essentially I just want to be able to take those amazing pictures taken by amateur astronomers on a relatively cheap budget. The HEQ5 PRO Is way out of my price range, but if its truly a necessity I can save up. 

The white HEQ5 Pro Synscan that has been rightly suggested as a capable mount for deep-sky astrophotography, when paired with a small telescope, is sold in the States in its black incarnation, the "Sirius", and by Orion Telescopes of California...

http://www.telescope.com/Mounts-Tripods/Equatorial-Mounts-Tripods/Orion-Sirius-EQ-G-Computerized-GoTo-Telescope-Mount/pc/-1/c/2/sc/34/p/24336.uts

That particular mount even has a three-installment payment plan available.

A small, fast telescope is preferred for deep-sky imaging, an ideal being an 80mm f/5-f/6 ED or apochromatic refractor, but such telescopes are quite expensive.  An economical alternative, however, would be a 130mm(5") f/5 Newtonian, specifically the Sky-Watcher 130P-DS.  It is sold in Europe, and Canada(as the BKP 130), but not in the U.S.  Therefore, it would need to be ordered from Canada.  I've ordered from Canada before, and with no problems...

http://www.kwtelescope.com/sky-watcher-bkp-130-otaw-dual-speed.html

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How do you know if your actually looking at the object? Like some faint nebulas I can't see with my telescope eyepeice, much less the camera live view. Do I just take a 5-10 minute exposure and hope it's in the field of view? What methods should I use to ensure I'm actually on the object?

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Imagers use "off-axis guiders" and "guide scopes" to track a guide-star close to the object being imaged.  Also, with a fast Newtonian, a "coma corrector" may be needed to ensure pinpoint stars all the way to the edges of the images.

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You'll know you are on the object because you will have accurately polar aligned your mount and done a star alignment and made any adjustments for accuracy before finding your target with the goto software. Then you will either preview the object using your camera screen, or viewed it on your laptop if you have connected one, in order to make any framing adjustments. And as Alan above says you will have locked onto a guide star very near (or sometimes within) your target object. You can also check the field in your finder for positional confirmation. If you're using a dslr you can also look in the camera view finder which is pointing right through the scope. Hth :)

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17 hours ago, aeajr said:

I am going to ask a question of those knowledgeable in AP.

Would it make sense for Herzy to spend most of his budget on a good AP mount and then mount his 127 onto it?   Wouldn't that give him a start while he saves up for an optimized AP telescope?   From what I read it seems like many people do their AP with 80 to 100 mm refractors.    

This gives him a good mount which will better handle the 127eq, set him up for AP and give AP a try with that set-up.

What do you think of that approach?

Yes, go for the mount first (if imaging). You dont even need to put a telescope on it as a camera lens will do quite nicely until you can afford a suitable imaging telescope.

The 130pds is more than capable of taking good images, as demonstrated on numerous occasions. For proof, all you need to do is search 130pds on google and look through the images captured, or alternatively - look at this thread:

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/210593-imaging-with-the-130pds/

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11 hours ago, Herzy said:

So I go to a Betelgeuse or something, and if it's perfectly in the center I go to the dso?

It is use Betelguese to focus on because you can  see it, once focused then swing the mount to the DSO you can't see. But pick a star for focusing on that is near to the intended DSO, no point picking a star miles away focus wont  be as good.

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