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Skywatcher mount upgrade from Eq5


Avo

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Hi folks

I have a Skywatcher set up with a 200P on an Eq5.

I am pondering on a new mount prior to building a fixed pier in the garden.

My thoughts are that the AZ-Eq6 seems to be an improvement on issues recognised with the (N)Eq6, but have some of their own. The Eq6 issues seem to be well documented with available fixes.

An Eq6 syntrek upgraded with belt mod and bolts upgrade / Eq6wedge and maybe an ADM saddle would come in around roughly the price of the AZ-Eq6.

Do I save a few more pennies and go for an Eq8 head ? or go with the previous option and have a few quid spare for another Delos (or two)

I mainly view at the moment but plan on imaging.

Also, as I have a synscan handset with the Eq5, presumably this can be used with an Eq6 ?

Any thoughts on this would be welcome, apologies if this has already been covered somewhere else on this forum.

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Hi folks

I have a Skywatcher set up with a 200P on an Eq5.

I am pondering on a new mount prior to building a fixed pier in the garden.

My thoughts are that the AZ-Eq6 seems to be an improvement on issues recognised with the (N)Eq6, but have some of their own. The Eq6 issues seem to be well documented with available fixes.

An Eq6 syntrek upgraded with belt mod and bolts upgrade / Eq6wedge and maybe an ADM saddle would come in around roughly the price of the AZ-Eq6.

Do I save a few more pennies and go for an Eq8 head ? or go with the previous option and have a few quid spare for another Delos (or two)

I mainly view at the moment but plan on imaging.

Also, as I have a synscan handset with the Eq5, presumably this can be used with an Eq6 ?

Any thoughts on this would be welcome, apologies if this has already been covered somewhere else on this forum.

Hi,

Funny you should say about a new mount, I've just picked up my NEQ6 and it's a really nice piece of kit. I've seen and used an AZEQ6, again, an awesome piece of kit. I'm not one to ask about the hardware of the mount itself, but with respect to the Handset, it wont work with the cable you have at preset as the socket types are different. I think the software Is exactly same, so all you'd need to do is change the wire from handset to mount.

The EQ6 and NEQ6 are exactly the same except the NEQ6 has a losmandy/vixen dual puck and a longer counterweight bar, but you pay an extra £100+ for these (provided you're buying new)

Hope I've helped in some way

Cam

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Cheers Cam

I think with the amount of rain and cloud we've had here lately, I don't want to go too mad on the mount. my thoughts are that the Eq6 issues can be upgraded piecemeal.

I would likely go for EQMOD, although having a synscan handset is handy when one just wants to have a quick peak through the gap in the clouds.

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I would plan  to store scope after each session.

I want to install a pier and would like to leave the head installed. Problem here is it's windy and coastal, lots of salty damp air.

At some stage I would like an observatory for a permanent set up, but that's a way off yet. Too many other jobs on house that need sorting first.  :sad:

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Yes, it's private, no security issues, just the weather.

I currently use the scope from a big shed, it has large double doors that open out to the southern sky and shields from the usual westerly breeze / gale.

If the weather is fine,I'll leave it set for a day or two but usually I bag up the scope and accessories either after the session or maybe the morning after.

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You could try a good quality cover then. If the mount head is left securely ( bolted and fixed nuts with Locktite  ) fixed onto a very solid pillar, it should be easy to remove the scope and refit with little or anyway virtually no error in polar alignment. TeleGizmo do very tough covers, from what I've read.

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Yes I had an NEQ6 for about 4 years. Nice mount, very solid. It is fairly heavy to cart around, as I only get to some star parties. Unlike you my garden is not secure!! Otherwise I would leave my mount outside. The NEQ6 was not as accurate as I wanted as I did find its limits.  I still class myself as a beginner in imaging. I've a lot to learn especially about the programs to bring out details in the images.  The EQ8 is a different kettle of fish entirely, but very heavy. EQ8 three time as expensive as NEQ6. But you learn as you go.

Derek

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EQ8 so far has been a totally different mount. Can take prodigious weight. More accurate, there are some concerns on the forum but so far I have been happy. As an ex engineer not much I cannot do, but why should I. If you pays your money you should get the goods. As with any mount or piece of equipment there is always room for improvement. The accuracy of the EQ8 beats the NEQ6, but so it should.  I have only had it for a year and that for me is only 4 times away at star parties, so lots still to experiment with and learn. Not much else I can say but I'm happy so far. In parting if you decide to go for an EQ8 and still want the pillar definitely do not buy the legs. They are heavy by far too much and the ridiculous way they are levelled leaves a lot to be desired, in short a waste of time. Sorry in two parts but other half was calling :p

Derek

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Cheers Derek

May have a closer look at the EQ8, imaging is the end goal. There's deals on at the moment.

I'm conscious Skywatcher are good but at the budget end of the market, to get German / Japanese precision probably means a 5 - 10 fold increase in price.

Think the pier is going to be a priority, need to get one fabricated over the summer. 

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I know that loads of members fix their piers into the ground in concrete. It is the only solid method that can give accuracy in being perpendicular. I fixed steel posts over twenty years ago in a similar way. Most go for a round or square hole then just fill it up to ground level with the pier sunk into the concrete. I used a slightly different method. It is less likely to move at all. I made the hole as usual but very wide. Then made up some cheap wood shuttering in the form of a pyramid. This was about 6"higher than the ground level. I back filled the outside with soil and stones to stop the shuttering moving until the concrete was set. I filled the inside with concrete but with a brick at the bottom centre. The posts sat on the brick with a sheet of polythene on top of the brick. This stops damp getting to the posts.the concrete had a waterproofed in it ( Sika 1 can be used now much better) mixed in with it. This makes the concrete water proof. The bit above ground ensures that the steel is not sitting in any water and stops corrosion. (Nothing can be perfect). The posts were held in place with wood braces until the concrete set. Same can be done with a pier. But I suggest painting the pier with a resin paint before you start. The soil and stone is then removed to get the shuttering out. Then all just back filled and stomped down.if it is about 3 to 4 foot wide at the bottom it will never move. The wide base will prevent any tendency for the pier to tip with time, soil saves extra cost of more concrete.

You will never get it out without a lot of effort.

I believe in over doing things, because I never like to do them ever again ;)

On the other hand you could just make a concrete pier, a friend has and it is very solid. He used what looked like a concertina plastic pipe about 9" diameter as the mould. His is sunk about 3 feet into the ground. Has steel reinforcement in the pier.

Others bolt a steel pier onto a concrete block sunk in th ground.

Loads of different ways to skin a cat as they say.

Whatever you do I wish you luck.

Derek

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