EOS-M Set up

[greencode]

I've just purchased a T2 adapter for my Canon EOS-M but can't quite figure out how to connect everything!

I have connected the T2 to the camera > the 25mm eyepiece to the Celestron T-Adapter (with 2x Barlow) and then connected the T-Adapter to the T2 mount.

I'm then not sure if this is normal when viewing the image on the LCD screen of the camera I get a circle rather then full rectangular frame. If I remove the eyepiece then I get full frame but obviously then I would only get 2x magnification rather then than the 2x 25x.

Any ideas as I'm sure I've tried all the different threads on each thing!

[PeterCPC]

It would help to know what telescope you are using and mount details. I'm sure that someone will advise then. It sounds like vignetting.

Peter

[greencode]

It would help to know what telescope you are using and mount details. I'm sure that someone will advise then. It sounds like vignetting.

Peter

Hi. Forgive me. I'm very new to this!

I'm using a Skywatcher Heritage 130p (I realise this isn't an ideal telescope for the job but just want to play about).

So I have:

Heritage 130p

Pixco Lens Adapter For T2 T-Mount EOS-M

Celestron 1.25" barlow with t-adapter

1.25" 25mm eyepiece.

[paraletic mirror]

does you focuser have a thread on it? if so on a few skywatchers have a thread to screw the t ring onto

atb para

[greencode]

does you focuser have a thread on it? if so on a few skywatchers have a thread to screw the t ring onto

atb para

Unfortunately not.

[PeterCPC]

You will probably need the Barlow to be able to focus but I am not familiar with the EOS M so I can't say for sure. I know that you can get eyepiece projection kits for the EOS M so I think that might be your answer. Sorry but I am not very familiar with this kit. Hopefully someone with this set up will come along.

http://www.telescopeadapters.com/

Peter

[davefrance]

I suspect it is because you are using a 1.25 dia barlow and eyepiece and they are causing vignetting.

You may have a problem with the weight of a DSLR, barlow and eyepiece hanging off the focuser but I am not really familiar with this telescope.

[greencode]

I suspect it is because you are using a 1.25 dia barlow and eyepiece and they are causing vignetting.

You may have a problem with the weight of a DSLR, barlow and eyepiece hanging off the focuser but I am not really familiar with this telescope.

The weight shouldn't be a problem but I've just tried removing the barlow and I still just get a circle rather than full frame.

[PeterCPC]

The weight shouldn't be a problem but I've just tried removing the barlow and I still just get a circle rather than full frame.

But is it in focus?

Peter

[greencode]

But is it in focus?

Peter

I've not tried it on the telescope as yet but surely, even my looking a the LCD screen of the camera it would fill the screen rather then being a circle in the middle of the screen?

[skywatcher58gb]

The normal setup with a Canon EOS, mine is the 650D is to connect the T adaptor directly to the scope and not through an eyepiece, the scope acts as the camera lens. Barlows are optionally fitted.

[greencode]

The normal setup with a Canon EOS, mine is the 650D is to connect the T adaptor directly to the scope and not through an eyepiece, the scope acts as the camera lens. Barlows are optionally fitted.

Thanks for this. But doesn't that then mean you'll be getting hardly any magnification if you don't have the 25mm eyepiece fitted? Excuse my ignorance here.

[skywatcher58gb]

A good web site to get an idea of what scopes and camera combinatiosn can see is 12 dimensioal Strig,  Attached link, it may or may not have your combination but have a look anyway.

http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fov.htm

[Blazar]

I used to use my EOS-M with a T adapter (from FLO), along with a 1.25" nosepiece that screwed into the T adapter...then just slot it in the focuser. I was using an Edge800 HD...the Nosepiece was this one:

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-125-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html

can't recall getting cropped images with it....note...no barlow....and some targets are quite large.

[greencode]

I used to use my EOS-M with a T adapter (from FLO), along with a 1.25" nosepiece that screwed into the T adapter...then just slot it in the focuser. I was using an Edge800 HD...the Nosepiece was this one:

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-125-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html

can't recall getting cropped images with it....note...no barlow....and some targets are quite large.

Thanks for this but still confused. Thought it might be easier to upload some photos of what I currently have.

So you'll see the T2 adapter / eyepiece / T adapter with Barlow

[happy-kat]

With what you have looks like a form of afocal imaging.

A 25mm eyepeice gives 26x magnification which wis what your camera sees with the imge from the eyepeice, add in the barlow and the magnified image becomes x52

Your eye sees a circle of image through the eyepeice.

The camera will see the same as your eye a circle of image, there is no issue here it sees what you would have seen.

What you have already bought sould work fine.

First using the barlow and eyepeice get the focus right.

Carefully remove the two and attach to your camera and replace exactly the same into the focuser.

The camaer should see what is showing on the eyepeice.

If it does not you might need to change settings, try either landscape mode or macro.

Or

You have an eos-m take the lens off and remove the eyepeice use the telescope as a giant lens.

This is for prime focus imaging.

To focus with the heritage 130p you will need to drop the trusses about 1-2 inches.

You do not need to use a barlow to acheive focus in fact I have only acheived it without a barlow and dropping the trusses nearly 2 inches.

With a webcam it is about 1 inch I need to drop.

For prime focus as an example you would get the right adaptor

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html

Then I use one of these

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-125-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html

Magnification in prime focusing is roughly the same as if you had used a 10mm eyepeice, it is to do with the CMOS sensor size in the camera. There is a detailed explanation somewhere to fully explain it but I gave the very crude non tachnical approximation size.

I have hung 500 grams on the focuser but it is not ideal.

The focus unit is not ideal at all for imaging I find it very hard to find that focus sweet spot with it and a camera hanging off it.

A webcam is easier as it weighs less and is great for the Moon and Juptier.

[paraletic mirror]

remove the eyepiece from from the system, with no eyepiece and no barlow i get the same mag as a 25 - 20 mm eyepeice with my 300d in 150p

atb para

[paraletic mirror]

other thing as well that barlow looks like the one i have, you can remove the 2x lens from it by unscrewing it so you are just left wiith a tube

atb para

[greencode]

With what you have looks like a form of afocal imaging.

A 25mm eyepeice gives 26x magnification which wis what your camera sees with the imge from the eyepeice, add in the barlow and the magnified image becomes x52

Your eye sees a circle of image through the eyepeice.

The camera will see the same as your eye a circle of image, there is no issue here it sees what you would have seen.

What you have already bought sould work fine.

First using the barlow and eyepeice get the focus right.

Carefully remove the two and attach to your camera and replace exactly the same into the focuser.

The camaer should see what is showing on the eyepeice.

If it does not you might need to change settings, try either landscape mode or macro.

Or

You have an eos-m take the lens off and remove the eyepeice use the telescope as a giant lens.

This is for prime focus imaging.

To focus with the heritage 130p you will need to drop the trusses about 1-2 inches.

You do not need to use a barlow to acheive focus in fact I have only acheived it without a barlow and dropping the trusses nearly 2 inches.

With a webcam it is about 1 inch I need to drop.

For prime focus as an example you would get the right adaptor

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html

Then I use one of these

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-125-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html

Magnification in prime focusing is roughly the same as if you had used a 10mm eyepeice, it is to do with the CMOS sensor size in the camera. There is a detailed explanation somewhere to fully explain it but I gave the very crude non tachnical approximation size.

I have hung 500 grams on the focuser but it is not ideal.

The focus unit is not ideal at all for imaging I find it very hard to find that focus sweet spot with it and a camera hanging off it.

A webcam is easier as it weighs less and is great for the Moon and Juptier.

other thing as well that barlow looks like the one i have, you can remove the 2x lens from it by unscrewing it so you are just left wiith a tube

atb para

Thanks for your help with this. I'll have a play around this evening and see what I can get. I'll report back.

[paraletic mirror]

how did you get on? 

atb para

[greencode]

how did you get on? 

atb para

Pretty poor. Impossible to get a decent image of anything. I reckon I'll be able to get a good image of the moon but unfortunately it's too low on the horizon at present for where I live.

[paraletic mirror]

Can you get focus now though?

Atb para