Daystar Quark Hydrogen Alpha Eyepiece

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

My concerns were more with non-daystar components (like my little 1.25" diagonal) needing some protection. Daystar do state that in the case of Petzval type optics and field correctors an ERF is needed.

[Joves]

That notice appears on the Daystar hydrogen alpha products page as well. I think its refering to the other Ha filter assemblies they sell. I don't Know what they mean by covers either.

I tend to entirely agree with you, Allan. I believe this is a notification that has always been on their website and possibly doesn't necessarily relate to their newest product, the Quark.

[DrRobin]

Hi,

Come slightly late to this thread.  I saw the Quark yesterday and didn't think too much of it, but the reported bandwidth of 0.3 - 0.4A for the Chromosphere version looks really interesting.  Seems they are okay without an ERF up to 80mm and then a UV/IR in front up to 130mm.  Over that a front mounted ERF is recommended.

Seeing the images on other sites, these do look good for high magnification viewing and imaging and it would go well on my 102mm refractor.  Hmm.  I did see a report that it takes 12 minutes to come on band, seems a long while for it to heat up.

Luke, I see you have ordered one, was it from the UK?

Robin

[Luke]

Robin, I ordered from SCS Astro. Hopefully it will be here in June. What scope was the Quark in? I think the warm up time is okay for me as I have the 60 Solar Max already, which is very quick to get out and use. I'm intending to use the Quark mostly at 85mm upwards, where I'd leave the scope outside for a bit anyway before using it. I'll start with a 66mm to ease in. I suppose visually I could also see how I think it compares against a double stacked Solar Max 60. Our 66mm is a nice sharp little scope.

[paulastro]

I've just realised one quality of the PST that might give it an advantage over the Quark.  I went out a few minutes ago to see some wonderful prominences and a 'Y' shaped detached prominence, lovely.  I'd been out a very short time when rain came down out of a virtually clear sky, this happened three times  in quick succession. 

It made me wander, it was ok dabbing the rain off the PST - I just wandered if the Quark will have the same 'water-proof' qualities?

[knightware2]

I had a look through the Quark chromosphere model at NEAF (in NY) in April. The view was impressive for the cost. Lots of surface detail and a couple prominences. I did not have a chance to look through the prominence model.

I had an extensive chat with the Director of Sales whom I have known for many years, and I decided to order the chromosphere model. I expect delivery in early June. I plan to put it on an 80mm f/9.4 refractor for starters. Daystar tells me that I will not NOT need a front ERF, nor a IR/UV cut filter for my intended use. If I look at the sun for long periods of time, the cut filter is indicated. If I use the Quark on a 100mm f/5, I'll need the ERF. I will likely use the Quark on both refractors, so the ERF will be a later addition.

This package suites my need and saves lots of $ when compared to a dedicated solar refractor (which I've been considering for several years). I'm really looking forward to having an H alpha rig at last.

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

This sounds more and more interesting. My only real worry now is the 12 minute warm-up time to come on band mentioned earlier. That may cause problems in our fickle weather. Catching short gaps in the clouds could mean having to leave it powered up for long periods of time. I also wonder about speed of tuning.

[knightware2]

Michael,

When I looked through the Quark at NEAF, I helped setup the telescope and looked through the Quark after the DayStar Sales Director focused and tuned the Quark. That was far less than 12 minutes to heat up the etalons. We were chatting during focusing and tuning, but I'd guess the wait to power up was more like 5 minutes. Is 12 minutes something recommended by DayStar? If so, it has escaped me thus far. Thanks in advance if you can clarify that for me!

One other point of clarification from my chat with DayStar - the ERF will be needed for our 100mm f/5 refractor because it is an older Genesis from TeleVue. Those have a fluorite element in the middle of the tube, so we want to keep it cool and happy with an ERF; otherwise, DayStar said I probably wouldn't need one.

- Phyllis

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

Michael,

When I looked through the Quark at NEAF, I helped setup the telescope and looked through the Quark after the DayStar Sales Director focused and tuned the Quark. That was far less than 12 minutes to heat up the etalons. We were chatting during focusing and tuning, but I'd guess the wait to power up was more like 5 minutes. Is 12 minutes something recommended by DayStar? If so, it has escaped me thus far. Thanks in advance if you can clarify that for me!

One other point of clarification from my chat with DayStar - the ERF will be needed for our 100mm f/5 refractor because it is an older Genesis from TeleVue. Those have a fluorite element in the middle of the tube, so we want to keep it cool and happy with an ERF; otherwise, DayStar said I probably wouldn't need one.

- Phyllis

Thanks for he info. Sounds like it would heat up as I set up the scope when I am at work (takes about 5 minutes). I might just keep the LS35 for those ultra-fast dashes to catch a minute gap in the clouds at home

[Joseki]

I just cancelled my order of one of these and put in an preorder for a LS50 (b600) instead. I think its the grab and go aspect that swung it in the end but then I don't have another Ha scope so maybe this product isn't really for me.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[DrRobin]

John,

I really became interested in a Quark when I saw the bandwidth (down to as low as 0.3A) and thought it might make a good Ha filter for high magnification imaging.  I am also thinking about one to take on holiday with a small 80mm scope that I could also use for white light.

Daystar filters have always required F/25 or higher, but I have just found out that whilst the Ha filter needs to be a F/25, you can fit a focal reducer to your camera to give a wider field of view.  Suddenly, my 80mm F/4 scope with a Quark and a 0.5x FR might be able to do a full disc mosaic with not too many panes?

The Lunt will certainly be a better all rounder and for a first try at Ha might be a better way to go, even if it is slightly more expensive (not sure if ricing has been released in the UK/Europe yet?).  I have the Lunt 60 and it is superb and expect that the 50 will be very similar.

Luke, I have decided against rushing to purchase a Daystar Quark.  Delivery isn't until June, so I might as well try and see one at IAS and possibly pick one up there.  I don't go on hols until July, so even if I can't get one then, I might still be able to get one in time.

Robin

[Luke]

I can't wait to get my Quark. I have two shiny new Tele Vue Plossls ready and waiting

The images by swisswalter on SolarChat convinced me it will have a place. I'm intending to keep my single stack SolarMax 60 for lower res/full disc imaging and for record-breaking dashes to the garden to catch the Sun   And also, for drift imaging with a static mount - the Quark setup would have way too much focal length for that.

Robin, I'd been wondering what the score is with focal reducers and the Quark. A 0.5 would be interesting if it works well.

If I had to choose either the Quark or a small h-a scope as my one and only solar setup, I don't know yet, it depends on how good the view is. It would be the Quark, if it works well enough - using 120mm of aperture would be way too tempting. And I like the idea of using my decent focusers on my fracs, the helical on my SolarMax is not the greatest for imaging when there are small gaps.

[Zakalwe]

I can't wait to get my Quark. I have two shiny new Tele Vue Plossls ready and waiting

The images by swisswalter on SolarChat convinced me it will have a place. I'm intending to keep my single stack SolarMax 60 for lower res/full disc imaging and for record-breaking dashes to the garden to catch the Sun   And also, for drift imaging with a static mount - the Quark setup would have way too much focal length for that.

I'm close to doing similar. I was playing about with modifying my Lunt L60 to mate it to a 120mm refractor. I'm now thinking of leaving the Lunt as-is and using a Quark on the 120mm for close up stuff. I might have a chance on doing a deal on a 110mm ERF which could be mounted inside the OTA. That'd be needed if I use the Quark or mod the Lunt.

[Pig]

You could sell me your DS to pay for it

[Joseki]

I can't make up my mind which would have been better, though I like the idea of dual mounting the L50 against a short tube 90mm frac I already have (with white light setup).  Really tough decision (but the good sort, they both look great).  I've preordered it from America btw as it's not out here & it works out about the same price as the Quark.  In the end I just get the feeling I'd personally do more observation with the Lunt whilst keeping open the option of dabbling with imaging (why I chose the B600 filter model) but I'm not too serious about competing with the fantastic images other people produce.

John,

I really became interested in a Quark when I saw the bandwidth (down to as low as 0.3A) and thought it might make a good Ha filter for high magnification imaging.  I am also thinking about one to take on holiday with a small 80mm scope that I could also use for white light.

Daystar filters have always required F/25 or higher, but I have just found out that whilst the Ha filter needs to be a F/25, you can fit a focal reducer to your camera to give a wider field of view.  Suddenly, my 80mm F/4 scope with a Quark and a 0.5x FR might be able to do a full disc mosaic with not too many panes?

The Lunt will certainly be a better all rounder and for a first try at Ha might be a better way to go, even if it is slightly more expensive (not sure if ricing has been released in the UK/Europe yet?).  I have the Lunt 60 and it is superb and expect that the 50 will be very similar.

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

You could sell me your DS to pay for it

Please, no trading in the open forum

[JB80]

Not sure if it has been posted here yet but Ken(Merlin66) has brought up a good point and one which will potentially affect some buyers.

The recommended ambient operating temperatures are 40 -100 deg F (5 - 38 deg C)

Apparently is what it says in the manual.

Now on a 25°C day my thermometer is measuring temps in the high 30's in the direct sunlight and it's not even summer yet.

[Merlin66]

yeah....

certainly could be a major issue out here in Australia!!!

[paulastro]

Not a problem here in the UK alas!

[JB80]

Most of southern Europe, plenty of the US and South America and well frankly anywhere it gets warm. That is a huge chunk of the market that could be potentially disappointed by an expensive purchase.

Of course it may be nothing more than premature speculating and it could turn out to work fine.

Still I'm out.

[paulastro]

I can't help but think that DayStar are hardly likely to have overlooked this.  If anyone is really concerned about this, a quick email to Sean (I think) at DayStar would soon settle it one way or another.

[Luke]

Would be good to get this cleared up but it may be no problem at all, OPT mention cooling on their Quark page:

"Electronic cooling and heating offer image stability with fine-adjustment tuning for optimum views. Exceptionally low power drain."

http://www.optcorp.com/daystar-quark-h-alpha-eyepiece-prominence-model.html

Most of southern Europe, plenty of the US and South America and well frankly anywhere it gets warm. That is a huge chunk of the market that could be potentially disappointed by an expensive purchase.

Of course it may be nothing more than premature speculating and it could turn out to work fine.

Still I'm out.

[JB80]

I think Ken has fired off an email asking about it.

Who knows, maybe the cooling is only effective in a certain temp range. I doubt they would of mentioned it in the manual if they weren't aware of something.

Definitely some clarification would help.

[Sarah]

I think Ken has fired off an email asking about it.

Who knows, maybe the cooling is only effective in a certain temp range. I doubt they would of mentioned it in the manual if they weren't aware of something.

Definitely some clarification would help.

It is a bit of an unknown. Hopefully Ken will get the answers.

[DrRobin]

I read somewhere that it heats to 100 - 150F to tune, so I am guessing 100F upper limit on ambient is about right.  And if ambient was too low, it would never get there.  For all of you living in a cold climate an insulating jacket is probably required.  For really hot locations a sunshield might be needed to keep it at shade temperature.

Robin