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M101 - first attempt

jarlaxle2k5

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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First attempt to this nice galaxy that was very bold to me last night.

The goto didn't put the object straight in the middle of the camera while was perfect when i pointed to Arcturus.

Anyway let's talk about data:

21 subs x 30"

18 darks

20 bias

ISO 800

Canon 1100D

SW 8" dob - goto

As always thanks for watching :)

post-32167-0-33671000-1395414778_thumb.j

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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I don't know exactly but I cannot get focus and have been advised that you can't really use a Canon with a Dob so it's nice to see that you can.

Peter

I dont see why a dobsonian cannot focus with a canon :)

Many people would say also that you cannot do DSO with a dob as well.

Mate go out and try everything is possible ;)

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Richardisgreat

Richardisgreat

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Beautiful shot mate.  I have the exact same flextube 200p as you and a canon 600d.  Did you simply attach the canon to the scope using a t-ring and that's it?  no barlow?  Im eager to have a go at this kind of thing my self but didn't really know if it was possible on a dobsonian mount.  Mine is a goto but on a alt az mount didn't know if it was possible to get long enough exposure time.

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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Beautiful shot mate.  I have the exact same flextube 200p as you and a canon 600d.  Did you simply attach the canon to the scope using a t-ring and that's it?  no barlow?  Im eager to have a go at this kind of thing my self but didn't really know if it was possible on a dobsonian mount.  Mine is a goto but on a alt az mount didn't know if it was possible to get long enough exposure time.

Yes i just attached the canon to the t-ring with no barlow.

If you have the tracking and the goto system you should be able to push the exposure up to 30sec.

I tried for fun to push it up to a minute with my finger on the camera button and the star trail was just visible.

Another thing that i do is to use the liveview in order to have the mirror ready opened so this avoid further vibrations.

Switch also off the option autorotate that made me crazy, i couldnt understand why after 10 shots the next were 90 degree tilted lollll :)

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Richardisgreat

Richardisgreat

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Thanks a lot, that's really encouraging.  I was unsure how to achieve zoom with a scope and camera.  It seems these deep sky objects are large enough that no barlow is needed.  Im very new to the imaging side of things and have felt reluctant to try due to having a dobsonian.  This proves that great shots can be achieved without an eq mount.  We are planning a observing session tonight so weather permitting I might take the camera.  How do you avoid dew settling on the dslr?  The last time we went out I noticed lots of moisture on our equipment after a few hour, I wouldn't want that getting on an expensive dslr.  any tips with this? 

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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Thanks a lot, that's really encouraging.  I was unsure how to achieve zoom with a scope and camera.  It seems these deep sky objects are large enough that no barlow is needed.  Im very new to the imaging side of things and have felt reluctant to try due to having a dobsonian.  This proves that great shots can be achieved without an eq mount.  We are planning a observing session tonight so weather permitting I might take the camera.  How do you avoid dew settling on the dslr?  The last time we went out I noticed lots of moisture on our equipment after a few hour, I wouldn't want that getting on an expensive dslr.  any tips with this?

Well usually i dont spend more than an hour outside so i haven't had this problem yet even because the backyard is a more protected zone than an open field.

So for the dew issue unfortunately i dont know what to say.

Probably if you get something like 45/50 shots each of 30sec. the camera could stay warm enough avoiding excessive dew.

Allign carefully the scope before you start shooting. After the 2 star alignment ask the goto to point a couple of star around the object that you want imaging just to check if you get them perfect in the middle of the EP. Sometime DSO are too dim and you cannot see them even in the EP.

Plan your session and as suggestion focus on max 1/2 DSO so you get plenty of shots for the stacking.

Have a good clear sky :)

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Richardisgreat

Richardisgreat

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Thank you. I am familiar with registax, but not deep sky stacker.  I was just wondering what programme you would recommend.  Also if you take say 10 x thirty second darks do you stack those darks together first to get one long dark frame then add them to the stacked sub frames,  or do you just throw all the frames darks subs etc into the stacker.  Not sure if I was clear about that question hope you get what I mean :)

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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Thank you. I am familiar with registax, but not deep sky stacker.  I was just wondering what programme you would recommend.  Also if you take say 10 x thirty second darks do you stack those darks together first to get one long dark frame then add them to the stacked sub frames,  or do you just throw all the frames darks subs etc into the stacker.  Not sure if I was clear about that question hope you get what I mean :)

To stacking shots i use deep sky stacker (DSS).

You load in it all of them at once subs, dark and bias and DSS does everything itself.

Have a look to this tutorial:

http://stevebb.com/deepsky-stacker-tutorial.html

I use registax mostly for planetary and moon.

Enjoy :)

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jarlaxle2k5

jarlaxle2k5

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I have used DSS but usually get some issues of frames dropped so now use Nebulosity which, although it takes longer and needs more input, I find gives better results.

Peter

i might try Nebulosity then next time :)

Thanks for the tip !!! :)

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