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Richardisgreat

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About Richardisgreat

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bracknell, Berkshire
  1. I have the skywatcher 200p and I upgraded the stock 25mm ep with a 30mm NPL http://www.firstlightoptics.com/vixen-eyepieces/vixen-npl-eyepieces.html I then purchased a 18mm BST Explorer and a 8mm BST Explorer http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Skys-the-Limit-Astro-and-Optical/BST-Starguider-ED-/_i.html?_fsub=2568750014 The NPL 30mm is a fantastic eyepiece for the money in my opinion, it loves those big open clusters and is a general good eyepiece for sweeping the sky. The 18mm BST is a fantastic eyepiece more mid range magnification it likes big nebular such as the orion nebular and such. The 8mm BST is fantastic for the moon and planets I also bought a 6mm Baader classic orthoscopic eyepiece hoping it would give shaper views and a little more magnification however the eye relief is exceptionally tight and therefore hardly ever gets used and probably will go to a new home soon. I would say (although im sure others would disagree) You don't need to shell out hundreds of pounds to get half decent eyepieces. Im very happy with my little collection and they tick all the boxes for me. I would like a 6mm eyepiece that is easier to get on with but not sure which to go for, maybe another BST Also if you buy them from Alan at Skies the limit he is well know for his exceptional customer support and will offer any advice should you need it. Richard
  2. Hi Jarlaxle2k5 I have finally got the scope out and taken my first dso, I have the exact same scope as your 200p flextube goto however I have had some difficulty getting the scope to stay steady. It it tracking fine but the slightest breeze makes the scope wobble a bit and hence I get blurred stars. I had a go a M3 with the intention of getting 30 or so 30 second exposures but they all came out blurry due to wobble. I had 1 shot of 30 seconds that worked ok but the blur from wobble was still macking it bad enough that I cant show anyone only my mate in my club. Just wondered if you have any try and tested tips that you can offer that you use to eliminate scope wobble. cheers Richard
  3. The parts that are not coloured like parts of Cornwall, Wales, Northern England, and most of Scotland are areas of little to no light pollution I believe. Areas which are White like London and other major cities are the worst for Light pollution, Red areas are next then Yellow, green, then blue. Our groups sky is in the Yellow zone and we have had some great observing sessions. If you can get in to a green or blue zone then you would be in for a serious treat Clear skies friends Richard
  4. check this little light pollution map out, hope it helps, you can zoom in to an are by roliing the mouse wheel http://www.avex-asso.org/dossiers/pl/uk/index.html Richard
  5. Here is the link http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/211798-m101-first-attempt/
  6. There is a great picture of m101 in the "beginners getting started with imaging" section. Taken with a skywatcher 200p flex tube dobsonian. Awesome use of 30 second stacked exposures. It gives me encouragement as this is the exact same scope as mine. Richard
  7. To answer the question for you, Mars is rising at about 21.00hrs in south east probably want to leave it till about 22.00hrs to get a better view. Saturn is rising at about midnight in the same rough direction. Again probably want to leave it a good hour after to get a better view. The times will change as the days pass and remember the clocks go forward at the end of the month.
  8. Thank you. I am familiar with registax, but not deep sky stacker. I was just wondering what programme you would recommend. Also if you take say 10 x thirty second darks do you stack those darks together first to get one long dark frame then add them to the stacked sub frames, or do you just throw all the frames darks subs etc into the stacker. Not sure if I was clear about that question hope you get what I mean
  9. Thanks mate I will give it a go, thanks for the advice
  10. Thanks a lot, that's really encouraging. I was unsure how to achieve zoom with a scope and camera. It seems these deep sky objects are large enough that no barlow is needed. Im very new to the imaging side of things and have felt reluctant to try due to having a dobsonian. This proves that great shots can be achieved without an eq mount. We are planning a observing session tonight so weather permitting I might take the camera. How do you avoid dew settling on the dslr? The last time we went out I noticed lots of moisture on our equipment after a few hour, I wouldn't want that getting on an expensive dslr. any tips with this?
  11. Beautiful shot mate. I have the exact same flextube 200p as you and a canon 600d. Did you simply attach the canon to the scope using a t-ring and that's it? no barlow? Im eager to have a go at this kind of thing my self but didn't really know if it was possible on a dobsonian mount. Mine is a goto but on a alt az mount didn't know if it was possible to get long enough exposure time.
  12. yeah sounds like a good plan, save and get a bigger scope. I have found with eyepieces and filters and stuff, that you spend a lot of money for only slight improvements in viewing, when most of the time its cloudy anyway As they say Aperture is king, but even then there comes a point when the increments in price jump drastically for only slight improvements. I recon for normal skies 8" - 12" is enough. Im very happy with my 8" scope and don't feel the need for anything bigger. You have to take into consideration the size and weight of the scope and the hassle of getting it outside or driving it to a dark site, the best scope is one that is going to be used. From my moderately light polluted location I have seen all the messiers in my sig with my 200p. Galaxies can be a bit of a problem to be honest but I don't think its the scopes fault, if you can get to a dark location then more stuff will be available to you. To get the best detail and some colour I think astrophotography is the way to go and stack some long exposure photos, however this is often referred to as a whole different hobby and many times more expensive. There comes a point when you have to be happy with what you have got, unless money is no issue
  13. I probably wouldn't bother with a moon filter I hardly ever use mine (only when the moon is super bright), and I probably wouldn't bother with a light pollution filter again I never use mine it seems to make everything too dark, My UHC filter gets the most outings when viewing nebular. I have just acquired some baader solar film and a continuum filter. They are both good, the solar film more so. The continuum filter makes the disk of the sun light green so helps with contrast and viewing sun spots, but does not give any extra detail. clear skies Richard
  14. I have the 200p and I find the castel uhc filter helps with things like the orion nebular and ring nebular, it helped a little with the owl nebular too.
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