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If you had to choose between these three....


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Thanks everyone for all your help and patience. I've decided to go with the VX and the Orion ED80. Will hold off on the guider for now. 

Now that I have that figured out it's time to do some camera shopping!

They will make a nice combo to start your imaging.

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Hold on just a second. How much higher quality is the SW ED80 over the Orion ED80? Did some calculating and found that after getting the rings and mounting rail for the Orion (doesn't appear to come with it) that the SW is only going to run me about 100 bucks more. 

If I'm assuming that the SW will come with the rings and rail.

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That is Typo, I have an SW 100ED DS pro which is 900mm of FL and an SW 80 ED which is 600mm of FL which is the one you are talking about. Remember that if you want to use it with a DSLR then an FF/FR is mandatory as it will flatten the field and also brings the rather slow F7.5 to a more workable F6.4 for imaging.

Regards,

A.G

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Why not go for the Skywatcher Equinox 80ED? Especially if you only use it for photography.

It´s only 50-70 bucks difference between the Evostar 80ED and Equinox 80ED.

The build quality of the Equinox 80ED is much better. Focal ratio is also Shorter (F/6.25)

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/equinox/skywatcher-equinox-80-apo-pro-ota.html

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Is a FF and FR a must have right off the bat? Or something I could get down the line if I feel my images will need them? If I understand them correctly the FF will produce sharper images around the edges and the FR reduces the FL? Kinda like a reversed barlow? (If that makes sense lol) 

Also I've been wondering about actually taking the images. I will be getting a 1100D and plan on using either APT or Backyard EOS to capture the images but had me thinking about initially finding the targets for imaging. Do I find them visually first and then swap to the camera like I have been doing so far with my SLT and webcam? I know the focus will be way off after doing that and there are lots of tips I have already seen about marking the focus tube, focusing the camera on a brighter object like the moon or jupiter and then slewing over to the target. Just wondering what are some other options? With the goto on the VX and a good alignment I should be able to just enter what I want to image and the goto will take me there, but I know that having that faint fuzzy being exactly centered in the EP doesn't always happen. 

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So I have my shopping cart filled up. The VX, SWED80, Canon 1100D, T-ring and adapter. Also threw in a 3x barlow and a UHC filter. (not for the AP setup though)

Also when the setup arrives I will get BackyardEOS.

After getting used to the rig and getting my first few images under my belt I will maybe look into getting the FF/FR and possibly an autoguider. 

Just have to wait for the check to get here and then start waiting for the packages to arrive! Sorry in advance for the horrible weather that I'm sure will follow. Maybe you guys will get lucky and the clouds will stay on this side of the pond.

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Is a FF and FR a must have right off the bat? Or something I could get down the line if I feel my images will need them? If I understand them correctly the FF will produce sharper images around the edges and the FR reduces the FL? Kinda like a reversed barlow? (If that makes sense lol) 

Also I've been wondering about actually taking the images. I will be getting a 1100D and plan on using either APT or Backyard EOS to capture the images but had me thinking about initially finding the targets for imaging. Do I find them visually first and then swap to the camera like I have been doing so far with my SLT and webcam? I know the focus will be way off after doing that and there are lots of tips I have already seen about marking the focus tube, focusing the camera on a brighter object like the moon or jupiter and then slewing over to the target. Just wondering what are some other options? With the goto on the VX and a good alignment I should be able to just enter what I want to image and the goto will take me there, but I know that having that faint fuzzy being exactly centered in the EP doesn't always happen. 

Hi i use my WOZS71 scope both with and without its FF/FR the image without does show distortion around the edges but is fine for getting in a bit closer to some targets and the moon of course so you can allways add one later.

I know that with my setup i can easily see faint stars in the live view screen and have no probs locating objects in fact Jupiter was shining bright the other day so i zoomed in on live view and could easily see 3 moons and the cloud belts and all with a 400mm FL scope.

Alan

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I have both scopes. The ED-80 does better in the blue spectrum, as far as imaging, but the Wo 71s focal length is a very nice thing, when coupled with the reducer/flattener. Also very nice for smaller sensors. They both are great for ED doublets. I tend to pull out the WO 71 more for some reason when imaging and the ED-80 for visual..

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http://www.optcorp.com/william-optics-gtf81-apo-refractor-telescope-with-integrated-flattener.html

holy smokers look what just dug up, I get the f6.6 wide field, with the fast speed for data collection AND I get the mounting rings and mount for a finder scope, my budget is $1000 and amazon are selling this beauty for $998.....ummmmm

but wait, how will these new figures affect my FOV with objects in comparison to the other scopes?

Neil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The camera is here  :smiley: and have also ordered the VX. The mount alone was 799 and on amazon I found the mount plus a 6" newt for a hundred bucks more. I know that it is a far cry from the 80ED but the mount was the main thing in mind and for 100 more I get a new OTA to play with. The biggest thing is that the fiancee will only see an $900 receipt instead of a $1500 one. I figure that for now I will be able to play with what I have and next time I get some extra money the 80ED will be on the list.

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