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About SkyGibbon

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    Star Forming

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    Las Vegas, Nv.
  1. What are people so afraid of? At least make them motion sensored or something if the boogeyman is out to get you.
  2. Try this link. It may be of help. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/462985-setting-up-the-gso-coma-corrector/
  3. Narrowband would be a suggestion. I have shot many targets with an ST-80 that way from a red/white zone.
  4. Nice!! Complete that setup with your dew shield locking screw.
  5. I think it looks pretty darn good to be honest. Here is a pic from my quad on the Crescent Nebula . Shot only on an Atik 314 though.
  6. I read somewhere that the Orions field flattener will work between 400mm to 660mm focal length if you needed one. I have one and it works as advertised. I also have the Reducer you asked about and it works as advertised. I used it on an St-80 and a 50mm/300mm ED scope.
  7. You can try to see if any of these Blue Fireball adapters work. Would have to ship from U.S. thought. Manish at Agena is a fantastic person to deal with and could probably get you your answers. https://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball/shopby/m48_2_filter_thread_male-sct_thread_female.html On the left that have all the listings of all other adapters Blue Fireball makes.
  8. Buy from FLO, sell on Ebay? Seems like they are catering to those too lazy to research.
  9. 18c / 5% humidity, less than zero clouds, 5 mph wind ......... Massive light dome.
  10. Looks like an Orion mount (maybe Sirius Pro?), with a Celestron achro.
  11. I always add on or take away 25 - 50% from any manufacturers specs dealing with amperage, mount weight capacity, temperature specs, longevity. But, that is just me. When it comes to d.c. power, I will keep the voltage specs, but up the amperage specs. Solved two different mounts with issues, just by doing this. When it comes to weight, I feel comfortable at 50% specced mount load at most. Cold temps, no problem for me. Heat, I don't even try. Heat index of 110f as I type this. Most list certain specs, but I think they rely on user experience and certain issues are going to be a given at extreme temps. As far as holding manufacturers to their specs, you can try, and I am sure some will refund you. But, I tend to try most the troubleshooting myself, as I , believe it or not, like that type of stuff and tend to find it is was the quality of my power supplies, or cables that were the issue. Of course, I wont do any board repair, and will just send those in to the manufacturer or legit repair service. Dedicated power supplies, nice gauged power cables, with quality connectors have always solved my issues as far as power goes. I really dont need them to tell me what a voltage drop might do, I just have to figure out what is causing it.
  12. You are welcome Gina. It has helped me with making a purchase or two.
  13. Sounds like something in the drawtube pressure area. I cannot find a good picture of that focuser, but I would think you can undo the allens on the backside of the focuser. The ones that hold the pressure plate, and has the focuser lock on it, (the larger silver thumbscrew). Sounds like maybe the pressure shaft may have gotten tweaked somehow. It seems to be the area to take a look at. There also seems to be a pressure adjustment allen just under lock thumbscrew too. That is adjustable, but the grind is worrisome.
  14. The site http://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/imaging-toolbox is what I have been using. Stellarium can also provide you with some info you are asking for. Also, https://sourceforge.net/projects/astronomyccdcalculator/ is a very nice program for this, as far as sensor/scope goes Whats with the formatting..........
  15. Here is the only Ha pic I have taken with mine. No flattener and have since fixed focuser alignment. Corners are bad, but it was a $109.00 scope afterall.
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