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NEQ6 Power Socket Mod


catman161

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You guys have most likely seen this all before it just wanted to share that I modified the mounts power supply socket today and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be :)

I was having some intermittent problems with a flickering read light and occasional loss of power an occasionally I have tripped and pulled the power cable out with the mounts current socket and so I read up and found this guide:

http://bendun.net/Images/STARFEST2011/EQ6%20Power%20Plug%20Modification.pdf

I decided to give it a try so bought all the bits I needed from Maplins and set to it. I needed a 16mm drill bit suitable for drilling through metal which I already had anyway and the rest of the stuff from maplins wasn't very pricey. I didn't even have a soldering iron, but I do now. That was on special and was a kit with solder removal pump and stand and solder all for £9.99!

Basically I followed the guide to the letter. The scariest part was actually drilling as I don't have a drill press so I had to clamp the plate in my workbench and use a hand drill but it went ok. I used a microphone cable that I had lying around (that was never even used and still in its original packing!) for the new power cable and it has worked out well the cable is 6 metres long and very flexible and shielded it is a locking plug system like in the guide and I the other end of the cable I soldered a fused cigarette plug. I have tested it all out and all seems to be working well. Some pics below :)

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the tip! I have been thinking about this for a long time. The connector you chose is not available for me, though, as it is the one that 10Micron uses for 24V. Don't want to mess that up ;) *POOF*

/per

IMG_0343.JPG

Sorry to sound stupid. Are you saying the connector that's been chosen - is only suitable for 24v and not 12v?

I ask because I'm powering the mount from a 12v battery ( with fuses ) 

The connector I ordered was from here .

Paul.

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What I meant was that I, for one, do not want to use the same connector for 12V and 24V equipment in order to reduce the risk of plugging 24V into something that expects 12V. Just that. No *POOF*. The 10Micron mounts have your connector for the 24V so I have simple chosen a different one for 12V.

/per

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Yep, this mod is well worth doing. There's not much room between the metal face plate and the circuit board so be careful that nothing shorts.

There is an added bonus that you now can run 12V by plugging into the now-redundant original power socket. I wouldn't run anything requiring lots of current (like a dew heater), but its bob-on for powering a filter wheel or the like. It saves another wire trailing off the mount.

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Yep, this mod is well worth doing. There's not much room between the metal face plate and the circuit board so be careful that nothing shorts.

There is an added bonus that you now can run 12V by plugging into the now-redundant original power socket. I wouldn't run anything requiring lots of current (like a dew heater), but its bob-on for powering a filter wheel or the like. It saves another wire trailing off the mount.

That's a neat idea!

I wish I came across this mod sooner. Meh -  Clear nights, scratching my head thinking why EQMOD isn't working. Found out it was the Cigarette Lighter cable (Held the cable by hand, as it just popped out of the socket).  So there's me  uninstalling drivers, reformatting the computer.. all because of rubbish cable. Oh well lol.

Clear skies for everyone!

Paul

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Yep, this mod is well worth doing. There's not much room between the metal face plate and the circuit board so be careful that nothing shorts.

There is an added bonus that you now can run 12V by plugging into the now-redundant original power socket. I wouldn't run anything requiring lots of current (like a dew heater), but its bob-on for powering a filter wheel or the like. It saves another wire trailing off the mount.

I use the now vacant original power plug to run my primary mirror fan now, :)

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Sorry not been on forum for a long time. There is a tiny gap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks.  I guessed as much and have done it now.  I thought the circuit board side would be the hardest part but I am having a devil of a time sourcing an appropriate cable for the plug.  I have now ordered some 2 core 6A 6.5mm cable from Maplin.

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This is a must have mod. I had several occasions when I had a intermittent on the power plug just as I was slewing to target. So then had to go through set-up and align all over again.

Its relatively simple to do and is a much better connection. In electronics the least reliable components are the connectors.

When I did my mod I decided there was lots of room behind the pcb so I could make longer stand-offs. Spent a while turning some up only to find how stupid I had been.

Some of the parts were pcb mounted and now sunk well back from the panel!! ?*!?*!

Still it was easy to revert to the original ones.

We get precious few good nights and anything you can do to make them hassle free is worth it.

cheers

gaj

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I have only just found a need to do this mod as the setup you see below served well for 4 years.  But now if I even touch the plug when using the mount it cuts out.  I guess over time it has become warn and loose?

power-con_safety1.jpg

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Someone might be able to tell me if I am wrong here, but I have noticed while viewing images online of this mod, that some people have used very narrow cable for the plug part of the mod.  As this cable is not thick enough to be held tightly by the plug clamp (see pic) would this not put all the load on the solders?  One sharp tug and Oops!

plug_clamp1.jpg

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Someone might be able to tell me if I am wrong here, but I have noticed while viewing images online of this mod, that some people have used very narrow cable for the plug part of the mod.  As this cable is not thick enough to be held tightly by the plug clamp (see pic) would this not put all the load on the solders?  One sharp tug and Oops!

plug_clamp1.jpg

When I did mine, I pumped a load of hot-glue into the socket to prevent the strain on the solder connections.

Something like this could probably be bodged to fit into the clamp to provide additional relief:

http://uk.farnell.com/hellermann-tyton/632-01020/strain-relief-pvc-5-5-5-3mm/dp/1206376?mckv=9b2ITHFD|pcrid|46853126109|plid|&CMP=KNC-GUK-[removed word]-GEN-LISTINGS

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I use insulation tape wrapped round the cable where the clamp is to ensure the clamp does its job.  I use these connectors for general power connections.

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Thanks. I guessed as much and have done it now. I thought the circuit board side would be the hardest part but I am having a devil of a time sourcing an appropriate cable for the plug. I have now ordered some 2 core 6A 6.5mm cable from Maplin.

As I said in the guide I used a micrphone cable and it worked brilliantly. No drop and even when freezing cold it did not go rigid like

Some cables can. Highly recommend it. Regarding the diameter of the cable it's perfect and the cable clamp grips it tightly as its a microphone cable it has a wide diameter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

At last I have finished the power mod on my mount.  It was worth sourcing the exact size cable in the end as it provides a nice tight fit in the plug clamp.  I used 6.5mm 2 core 6A cable Maplin Code:CW69A, and joined it with a waterproof cable connector to 20 meters of 7mm extension 2 core cable, which has an inline fuse before joining my 13.8V 10 -12A Bench Power Supply.

Works a treat, tested under load, no problem.

fin_plug1.jpg

fin_con1.jpg

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