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Everything posted by gajjer

  1. To clarify things for my simple mind. Are you saying that you take an image with binning at 1x1 and then, in processing it, you choose to bin 2x2 ( or whatever ). I was thinking that you were binning at the time of taking. cheers gaj
  2. That was my thought. I always use binning to get a higher gain but at the cost of resolution. But then I'm no expert. cheers gaj
  3. Wow. Thanks for that. Yep. Done that! Oooooh I'd like to see that one. Quite fancy one of those. Not done a RPi case - I'm an ESP8266/32-CAM kind of chap myself. Home monitoring mainly. I too have an Ender 3 and my only criticism would be the way the ribbon cable comes out of the print head. I made an aluminium support for it. It looked like it was just a matter of time before fatigue got the better of it. As you say, Fusion 360 is a very lovely free icing on a very lovely cake. I have surprised myself at the things I have done. Also, it's not always the price factor. Now I am retired, I like to keep myself mentally active and it certainly does that. I know that feeling too. Quite a while ago my son bought a Prussa and there were lots of issues with it and he gave it to me. I printed a bust of Nefertiti and it sat doing nothing after that. But it was a pain to use. The Ender 3 seems to have cracked most of the problems and most times I can just start it off printing with no intervention/setup. Initially there was a flurry of printing stupid things, then to earn brownie points there were the cookie cutters and Xmas decorations. Then a quiet patch. Then printing boxes for ESP8266 projects. Then some astro stuff and I am finding that though there are quiet patches, ideas come to me, I go onto Thangs and I'm off down another rabbit hole! BTW I wrecked a bed using PETG - just couldn't get the bits off. There's an irony in that since many people find it difficult getting stuff to stick to the bed! I now use this one YOOPAI Double Side Textured PEI Sheet 235x235mm, Ender 3 Magnetic Build Plate Spring Steel Bed For Creality Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2/ Ender 3 S1/ Ender 3 Neo/Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science. Plus I also use a bit of PritStik from time to time. I have made many things on my lathe and mini mill and I'm really pleased with them, but some things I just thought it was going to be so much hassle I didn't entertain the idea of making it. Now my first shot is to go to Thangs followed by an adventure in Fusion 360 and for me it is an adventure. cheers gaj
  4. Sorry I didn't post a picture ( I got called for dinner and food comes first!! ) That was pretty much my thinking. It's 'fit for purpose' so why not. I had no idea what the spacing should be and this is quick and dirty. cheers gaj
  5. I bought a 3D printer a few months ago and I love it to bits. Previously I would have made stuff on my little Chinese lathe, but now I print it - well the stuff that lens itself to printing. I wanted to modify a Skywatcher finder scope to take my QHY camera, so I have an extra guider. I found a design on Thangs but although the thread was ok for the scope, the thread for the camera was not. So I resorted to designing my own. I'm not a mech eng but I find that Fusion 360 is a really simple program to use and I've managed to design several oddments for the boss. Making the thread was a little bit more difficult than I had hoped but there are plenty of videos online. I don't know what the thread size is on the Skywatcher but it is around 50mm dia and a 0.8mm pitch. I printed something off just to check the thread using a dia of 50mm. It was too big as I expected but this is where the 3D printer is comes into it's own. A quick change to 49.5mm and I was able to print off another with virtually no effort at all. On the lathe I would have been cursing and wondering if it was worth it. That too was also too big, but finally with 49.3mm dia I hit the sweet spot. Now I just printed that out using standard quality 0.2 layer height, so I could probably get better, but it doesn't need to take much stress - so good enough. I'll revisit one day no doubt. Having done that I added a tube to accept the camera and printed a 6mm hole through it for a screw to secure the camera. Job done and I have to say a sense of achievement. File is attached if anyone is interested. cheers Gaj adapter_49.3_tube.stl
  6. When we do astrophotography we do something similar, in that we capture an image of the night sky - but not necessarily a live view. Am I right in thinking that you want to clean this up of satellites etc and display that on a monitor screen. It's not really clear to me what you are trying to do. You talk of a 'screen' in the tube. Do you mean a display? And do you really want the embedded computer in the tube too? So are you trying to capture an image, process it and show the result on a display, all in the telescope tube? cheers gaj
  7. Well actually I was talking of the SpaceX Dragon Crew-8 craft rather than the people.
  8. Thanks for that. It seems that the ISS and Dragon crew 8 must be close together or coupled at the moment.
  9. Just having a quick look at Stellarium and I see SpaceX crew 8 does a visible pass at 19:30 till about 19:37. Can anyone tell me how I can confirm that before I post it on a local FB forum? cheers gaj
  10. Glad you got that sorted. It's also an indication that your polar alignment isn't too good and that the frame is moving slightly with each successive capture. You'll see it on the stacking stats in Deep Sky Stacker as changes in dx dy and angle. Perhaps worth spending some time aligning before you start. PHD makes it quite easy. cheers gaj
  11. Found this link that might be useful when considering wind power. Wind Turbine Size Vs. Power | Sciencing A relevant section states A quick way of calculating the power in wind, in watts per square meter, is to multiply the cube of the wind speed in meters per second by 0.625. If the wind speed is in miles per hour, you multiply the cube by 0.056. Hope that helps cheers gaj
  12. To be honest I'd be very surprised if that turbine generates 600W. I couldn't see anything about size, but it didn't look very big to me. I think if you have a leaky obsy then you would need to put a lot of energy into it to keep it 'warm' on a blowy day. You are just venting warm air - at best. I would follow the advice of Stuart1971 if I were you. Better to heat a small well contained area. If you do buy the turbine I would be very interested how you get on with it. cheers gaj
  13. Can you send a photo of what your setup looks like. Something is really odd here. Perhaps a close up of how your lens connects to the body of the scope too. cheers gaj
  14. You probably need a spacer/extension piece between the eyepiece and the body of the scope. Try setting up in the day. Point at a chimney or aerial a few hundred yards away. You should be able to get focus. Then when you look at the moon or Venus, you shouldn't be that far off focus. The extension tube may need to be 5cm long. Hope that helps gaj
  15. The wavelength of a 2.4GHz WiFi signal is 12.5cm. The wavelength of green light is around 550nm. The pixel size for a digital camera will be around 5um. The sensor size has to be bigger than the wavelength you are trying to detect. So it works for light but not for radio waves and WiFi is at the top end of the radio frequency spectrum. You also have to consider that focusing radio waves is done differently to focusing light. Hope that helps. gaj
  16. Actually, just searched and couldn't find it. However, it does seem to be available on BBC Select, which looks like you have to pay for. Not seen it, but it looks interesting. gaj
  17. Have you looked on BBC iPlayer? cheers gaj
  18. Hi Stuart. I'm afraid mine looks like the V3 handcontroller. It doesn't have a USB connector. Sorry cheers gaj
  19. I was involved with setting up a photographic club many years ago. As someone said earlier, you will probably need to do everything yourself initially. Believe me, nobody wants to be the chairman or secretary - however, they do want to tell you how to do everything! It's important to meet regularly on an easily identifiable day - eg first Monday of the month. You may need to remind people in advance so get phone numbers and ring them. It is also important to have something planned to do at the meeting - you may have to be the speaker/lead every week until you get going. It could be that people just bring some of their kit and talk about it. Books ,images anything. Initially it will be too expensive to get speakers and often they are booked many months in advance. Arrange an informal meeting at a pub and get an idea of numbers. Be prepared to be let down. People can be very unreliable. Stick at it. Good luck cheers Gaj
  20. Hi Stuart. Not sure mine is a V5, but the dimensions are: Thickness = 27mm, Width = 85.5mm, Length = 180mm The thickness is measured on a flat surface to its highest point. My digital gauge wouldn't extend to 180mm so that is taken using a ruler. ( Modern technology outstripped with a piece of plastic stick! ) Hope that helps. cheers gaj
  21. Hi there Have a look at this link. Adjusting Worm Gear Engagement - Motor Gears - Astro-Baby It is probably well beyond what you want to do, but I think there are instructions on how to make some adjustments to the gear meshing. It maybe that there is a bit of play in the engagement. I'm not sure on your mount but the way the worm gear is positioned against the gear is by a "push pull arrangement of screws. Two pull the gear onto the worm and one pushes away. By setting these screws, the best mesh can be achieved. It will describe all of this in the link. In addition there is a threaded ring that restricts the movement of the worm along it's axis. There is a cap covering this. It's a fairly easy process, but having done it, you need to run the drive all the way round to ensure there is no binding at any point. Astro-baby explains it really well and there are lots of picture. The same thing applies to the other axis. I'm no mechanic but I found it quite straight forward, but it did take a few iterations of adjustment - run -adjustment -run. It will also give you a better understanding of how your mount works. cheers gaj
  22. If you do look at the ESP8266 or the ESP32, I would suggest either the ESP8266 NodeMCU variant or the ESP32 DevKit - they both come in a bewildering assortment, but those two have a good mix of I/O. Also, I would recommend that you look at the excellent tutorials at https//randomnerdtutorials.com - very full descriptions and clear. I have a small workshop with mini lathe and mini mill and I look on at what you are doing with envy. Good luck. gaj
  23. As an alternative to the Asduino, have a look at the ESP8266, which can be programmed with the Arduino IDE and has WiFi capability. Dirt cheep too and a fast processor. Just a thought. cheers gaj
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