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TCWORLD

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    Electronics, Model Railways, Model Rocketry, Astronomy
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    Leeds,UK

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  1. The 3rd image is correct. I had to reattach the wires on mine (see pic below), but if you are able to get the solder out of the holes (I wasn't as it was about the 5th time I had to repair it!), then try if you can to feed the wires down through from the top of the board and solder on the bottom. Then add lots and lots of hot glue around the area the wires go into the board and onto the wire covering to stop them breaking again.
  2. Bit of glue (e.g. hot glue gun) over the solder joint and wire insulation would probably help stop it coming off again.
  3. Cheapest thing to use is the left over wire from legs of things like resistors/capacitors that have been trimmed down - saves them going to waste!. A simpler alternative is to design your board so that the SOT23s are mounted on the back. They are quite small and will fit either at 45degrees to three holes in a triangle, or you can solder them so the two legs on one side are against two adjacent tracks and the single leg on the other side has a bit of stiff wire (like resistor leg) to it going to another trace.
  4. Using the 16T pulley shouldn't be an issue mechanically, the brackets were designed so that there is some adjustment in them - increasing the small pulley by one tooth should still be possible with the same belt lengths, the motors will sit slightly closer to the frame. The only thing it does is reduce the resolution of the mount, but by only 0.01 arcseconds, so not exactly an amount worth worrying about. Alternatively you could ask them if it is possible to bore the 14T pulley out to 5mm shaft (and if they have any).
  5. Just FYI, at the request of the Admins, I moved AstroEQ support here: http://astroeq.co.uk/forum/. @pianorealm, For the HEQ5 you have to wire the motors to RJ11 connectors (same sort as on the EQ5). Assuming these are the motors with the RA having 6 wires and the DEC having 4, I do have a wiring diagram that I can dig out over Christmas. The only thing about the HEQ5 is that I was never able to find a reliable source for the gear ratios of the non-goto version. So if you have the motors and want to count the teeth in the gearbox... @GigiG, you can use a clone, but some of them use weird USB-Serial ICs. The Arduino schematic is here: http://astroeq.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=13.0. @David, that sounds very weird. I'm not entirely sure why it would track the right way but slew the wrong way. You could try starting with a fresh EQMOD.ini file (make a backup copy of the existing one, then delete the original, EQMOD will make a fresh one next time it is opened) - it's possible something in that got corrupted.
  6. Hi Jim, This is a fairly normal occurrence. If the motors are wired up slightly differently, or the gear box has a different number of gears, the mount will go the wrong way, no real way of knowing until you test it and find it slews the wrong way. To correct this, run the configuration utility again, this time selecting the opposite setting of the button labelled "Reverse axis Direction" for the RA axis. If you notice the Declination is backwards, select to reverse that one as well.
  7. It may be possible to do something using an arduino/Ethernet shield. Have it connected to the internet via Ethernet and automatically fetch sunrise/sunset times. That way you wouldn't need a computer running 24-7. I've seen one example that uses an Ethernet shield to fetch weather data (including sr/ss times).
  8. 21.7Ohm sounds about right. For the 4 wire motor connect as the instructions. For the 6 wire motor, I presume you are measuring something like this: If so, you can simply ignore the two wires that have the higher resistance. This is something which I've seen on the HEQ5 motors where the RA has a high resistance set of coils which the skywatcher controller switches to to save power while tracking (all be it very badly!). For those desperately awaiting news of when the next batch of AstroEQ controllers will be available, I got an e-mail yesterday evening saying the PCBs have been posted out to me (should arrive Monday/Tuesday). I'll be sending out PMs/e-mails to those who have asked about them this evening.
  9. It's worth doing. Sometimes the motors have them, the last time I bought from ZA they did have flats in the shaft, but clearly not this time. I have done this in the past for something else and it definitely helps. You can do it with a hacksaw if you are careful, just make a couple of parallel cuts next to each other to open out a slot large enough for the grub. Alternatively a needle file would work. I'd try and go in about a mm at the deepest to give the grub screws good purchase.
  10. Hmm, those motors have a very high current rating - 1.7A per phase. AstroEQ is only capable of providing 1.2A per phase. It is however possible to run the motors at a lower current than their rating at the expense of some torque, given how large the rated torque of that motor is, I don't see that this would be a noticeable loss. You could theoretically got up to 1.5A per phase which is quite close to the rating of those motors, but you may notice excessive heating in the reverse polarity protection diode on the input. This could be bypassed as long as you ensure never to connect a supply of the wrong polarity.
  11. I presume there was supposed to be a link in that post?
  12. @velinoff These are the ones I recommend, and use in AstroEQ: http://proto-pic.co.uk/drv8825-stepper-motor-driver-carrier-high-current/ Though, unless you have already, make sure you double check all of your connections, especially around the motor driver boards, it is very easy to make small solder bridges on Veroboard. The 'ready made kits' at beltingonline are actually for the HEQ5 - I know they label them as EQ5, but they got it wrong. @Esa That one is new. Could you try reprogramming the firmware and your configuration, it seems something may have got wrong with programming. If that doesn't work, let me know via PM and I'll see what I can work out from this end. @Brian Not sure about the wiring of those motors. Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can find out the connections by measuring the resistance between pins. You should be able to find two pairs of pins which have a low (10-100 ohm) resistance between them. These are the two coils. The rest should have no connection. @Sebastien Not sure about that. Do you have more information on the motors? ---------------------- Good news anyway, I'm back from my holiday and have ordered another batch of PCBs. It will probably take ~10days for them to arrive after which I will get in touch with those who have enquired. There will be around 10 left of the batch after those who have got in touch have theirs. In a month I will be moving to America for two years to work on a project over there, so not sure I will be making any more for a while after this batch is gone, so if you want one, now is the time. (I'll still be on the forum etc. so around if anyone needs support).
  13. AstroEQ uses its a highly optimised set of routines that I wrote specifically for the DRV8825 and A4988 driver boards. Although it uses the Arduino to IDE to compile it, there isn't really anything Arduino left in the code.
  14. Also, a word of caution about 'cheap from China on eBay'. A large part of the electronics you can find on eBay are cheap for a reason, they are usually poorly designed, poor quality knockoffs which either don't work as advertised or fail quickly - advice which several people building their own AstroEQ didn't listen too and then regretted it.
  15. Simple answer, no. Long answer not without a major rewrite (and almost complete redesign) of the AstroEQ firmware, so no. AstroEQ uses 'step-direction' control, that one requires sequencing.
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