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DSLR Finder guider attachement any ideas ???


AshleyRoberts

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Hello all,

im looking for something to help me allign my DSLR to the object i want to try and shoot its a bit difficult when u cant see nothing through the eye peice say for instance i want to take a pic of Andromeda i wanna be able to point the cross hairs to the object boom done 

any help would be greatly appreciated !!   :grin:

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Ashley,

what type of a mount do you use for attaching the DSLR. Your subject line says "finder guider". Such an instrument is used with GOTO computerized mounts to make up for human and mechanical errors in tracking/setup.

If you are looking for a "finder scope" for your DSLR, then the best thing to do would be to attach the DSLR piggy back to the main telescope. This way you can align the scope well and if it sees andromeda, then the DSLR will also see the same thing. 

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Ashley,

what type of a mount do you use for attaching the DSLR. Your subject line says "finder guider". Such an instrument is used with GOTO computerized mounts to make up for human and mechanical errors in tracking/setup.

If you are looking for a "finder scope" for your DSLR, then the best thing to do would be to attach the DSLR piggy back to the main telescope. This way you can align the scope well and if it sees andromeda, then the DSLR will also see the same thing. 

hiya im just using a basic tripod to put my DSLR onto my theory is learn the basics with standard tripod and go from there id rather not get into the telescope and attaching my dslr to it i really wanna just take images using my dslr 

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Hi Ashley,

Using a fixed mounting system like a tripod introduces a few problems. The earth as we know rotates. This means like the sun and moon, the stars too go from east to west. For all practical purposes, a fixed camera can shoot the sky for no more than 15 seconds before you notice stars trailing (making arcs). If you get this, then you can take multiple 15 sec shots, stack them up and post process on photoshop to get a beautiful wide field image. Downside is, an object like andromeda galaxy shot through a wide angle lens will be tiny and just discernable as a deep sky object.

If you want to zoon in to the andromeda, then you have to have a platform that will track the stars. At the very least a tracker called the IOptron Star tracker, a simple box with a gear and motor and polar alignment scope that tracks the stars. This way you can perhaps use a 100mm lens and zoon on to the galaxy. If you need to get further up close to it, then an Equatorial mount with tracking, and preferably computerized goto function becomes a bare necessity. Unfortunately there is no way to go around all this.  Finally andromeda galaxy is what we call an object with a high dynamic range. That is, to get the entire galaxy in its glory you will need to take multiple exposures for the central part, and the faint outer arms, combine them using standard techniques and so on and so forth.

All the Best.

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Hi Ashley,

Using a fixed mounting system like a tripod introduces a few problems. The earth as we know rotates. This means like the sun and moon, the stars too go from east to west. For all practical purposes, a fixed camera can shoot the sky for no more than 15 seconds before you notice stars trailing (making arcs). If you get this, then you can take multiple 15 sec shots, stack them up and post process on photoshop to get a beautiful wide field image. Downside is, an object like andromeda galaxy shot through a wide angle lens will be tiny and just discernable as a deep sky object.

If you want to zoon in to the andromeda, then you have to have a platform that will track the stars. At the very least a tracker called the IOptron Star tracker, a simple box with a gear and motor and polar alignment scope that tracks the stars. This way you can perhaps use a 100mm lens and zoon on to the galaxy. If you need to get further up close to it, then an Equatorial mount with tracking, and preferably computerized goto function becomes a bare necessity. Unfortunately there is no way to go around all this.  Finally andromeda galaxy is what we call an object with a high dynamic range. That is, to get the entire galaxy in its glory you will need to take multiple exposures for the central part, and the faint outer arms, combine them using standard techniques and so on and so forth.

All the Best.

hi thanks fpr ypur reply im not 100 % gna take images of andromeda but id likr to for sure i mainy want a decent mount and scope etc to get started with i hear the HEQ5 200p is what i need ? i dont really know what that is to be honest apart from a telescope on a mount that tracks ? yes ideally i need this equiptment also i would need the attachements for my camera with regret i have found naff all so i may need to buy a new camera just to even get started with so in a nut shell i have come up with the 200p heq5 and a new camera right back to square one again still no clue where and what direction i need to go in lol thanks for the reply 

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yea thats my issue view finder is gash and cant see a damn thing but i have made a decision now and im not changing my mind im geting this as soon as i can 

http://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-skywatcher-explorer-200p-heq5-syntrek-.htm#Images

with this not only can i use it as a telescope i can attach my DSLR directly to it so problem solved !!! happy me !!!

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The first thing you should get, before getting any equipment is a copy of http://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html This will show you want you need, why you need it, and how to connect it all up and get it running.

If you are determined to get the 200P/HEQ5 combo, you will also need a Cheshire collimating eyepiece or laser collimator and t-ring appropriate for your camera. You will want (but not necessarily need straight away) a coma corrector otherwise you will have misshapen stars in the corners of the field. With the fairly long focal length, you will be limited to short exposures until you get an autoguider. I would also double check that your camera can actually reach focus on this scope. If you have a Canon EOS you should be okay.

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It certainly is a well regarded combination. I am slightly alarmed about the speed of your decision, remember that kit loses 40% of its value as it leaves the showroom.

dont everything mate ? this way  i believe i get best of all worlds yea ts not very portable but it will do the job maybe im rushing into a bit but im not spending the next 6 months trying to find out what is good and not for what i want someone told me u gta figure out what u want and try different things 

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The first thing you should get, before getting any equipment is a copy of http://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html This will show you want you need, why you need it, and how to connect it all up and get it running.

If you are determined to get the 200P/HEQ5 combo, you will also need a Cheshire collimating eyepiece or laser collimator and t-ring appropriate for your camera. You will want (but not necessarily need straight away) a coma corrector otherwise you will have misshapen stars in the corners of the field. With the fairly long focal length, you will be limited to short exposures until you get an autoguider. I would also double check that your camera can actually reach focus on this scope. If you have a Canon EOS you should be okay.

hiya thank you for your response i have a pentax K-7 but i am looking into getting a Cannon EOS 1100D hope this combo works lol 

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