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Which level is more level?


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Hi guys

My mount has a built in level, I've always setup my mount against this level however today whilst playing I took out a boat level and levelled the tripod with that before placing the mount backing the tripod but now my built bubble level isn't showing as level......

I thought a level was a level, if so then they should agree but they don't, has my mount been mis-levelled the entire time???

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You can turn the boat level around 120° and get a very accurate reading.

Those in mount levels are just a guide really, although if you can get put the head on something totally level and then not the position of the bubble, you could mark it on the built in level and henceforth know where to aim for ;)

Cheers

Tim

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I use a spirit level, as opposed to the one on the mount and just lay it on the spreader EP tray and adjust in two directions. The 'home' position markers on my scope are pretty badly aligned too, so I have to start from a bad place and then have to adjust with the slew keys on the controller. I know it only cost £600 but you'd think they would get the stickers in the right place wouldn't you? :huh:

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That is true, to a degree, but if you try to align with the GoTo and the scope goes no where near where you want it to, then it a right pain. :huh:

I also use Alignmaster as part of my Polar Alignment procedure and read at the beginning that the mount needs to be level, it doesn't take a sec so i don't see the point in not doing it.

I was just concerned all of a sudden that i have been using a level that wasn't, cheers for all the responses guys, boat level from now on.

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Being level has no effect on accuracy. You are only calibrating one thing when you level your mount and that is the orientation of your polarscope reticle. This is a pretty rough and ready device anyway and the difference between one bubble's idea of level and another will be unlikely to show. Slewing and tracking accuracy need good polar alignment but the universe doesn't care a jot for where your tripod is pointing. The best portable mount to align in the field is the Takahashi (by a mile) and that does not even have adjustable legs so it has no levelling facility other than a bubble on the RA housing - again so that the orientation of the polarscope reticle can be calibrated.

Olly

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There is a massive debate whether leveling your mount is important or not; personally i level the mount out of personal preference. When i didn't though it made no difference that i could see so i wouldn't be too pedantic about it though.

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I can see that it doesn't matter too much to an equatorial mount but does a wedge mounted fork not need to be level in the east west direction to set it up ?

If not why not ? can't get my head round it . :confused:

Dave

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Not all levels are level, its all a matter of cost. About 12 years back I had to 20 levels for part of a job that we set up here in Bulgaria. The boss went for the cheapest, there wern't two showing the same bubble position.

It's part of life today,

Alan.

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I don't think there can be much real debate about it mattering or all Takahashi mounts would fail to work, and they often work rather well!

Imagine this; you polar align your mount on a levelled pier head. Then you put a big invisible rod through the polar axis of the mount. This magic rod holds the polar axis exactly where you had it with perfect polar alignment. Now you dig up your pier, loosen the alt az bolts, and reset your pier at a rakish angle. Re-tighten the alt az bolts in this new position. The magic rod means that you are still perfectly polar aligned, so how can tilting the pier possibly have any effect? You do not need an aligned pier!

One caveat; interaction between axes during drift alignment is slightly reduced by having a level base. And like Farside I too level my bases out of a sense of tidy mindedness but it is not important. You often see gigantic concrete piers ending in spindly little levelling bolts which are not needed and compromise the value of the big pier.

Olly

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