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Got my camera, what next?


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Ok, so I've finally gone out and bought myself a DSLR camera. Went for the Canon 1100D.

I am really interested in photographing DSOs. I would like to know what I need to connect to my scope (SW Explorer 200p).

I know I need a T-ring, but what type and also do I use my eyepieces in conjunction when shooting DSOs, if so how do I incorporate them?

Any help would be much appreiciated, cheers.

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A Canon T ring like this: http://www.firstligh...rs/t-rings.html

If your 200P is fairly recent, then the 1.25" eyepiece adapter should unscrew into two pieces revealing a T thread you can directly screw the T-ring onto. This is called prime focus astrophotography. You can use eyepieces either by simply holding the camera up to the eyepiece afocally, or by using an eyepiece projection adapter. I've not used this technique personally, preferring the prime focus approach.

Edit: Perhaps I should add that the afocal technique uses the camera with its lens in place. Prime focus has the lens removed, with the scope effectively working as the cameras lens.

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To connect yur camera to your telescope you only need a t ring (EOS fitting). Unscrew the eyepiece holder and the part which goes into the focuser draw tube will have a t thread to match the adapter.You dn't need to use eyepieces because the telescope now becomes a big telephoto lens.

Peter

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Exactly what has been posted, Split the eye peice holder in two and attach to your T-ring then use the screws to attach it to the focusser. Thats how mine is set up and I have had no problems.

Rob.

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Exactly what has been posted, Split the eye peice holder in two and attach to your T-ring then use the screws to attach it to the focusser. Thats how mine is set up and I have had no problems.

Rob.

Thanks Rob, Do you use the setup on your signature for AP? as so many people say the EQ5 is not well equiped to handle the 200p + camera?
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I have got it setup on the 200P and the EQ5 but I have only had it a little while so havent used it for DSO. I'm really only observing at the minute then I will be looking into doing some photography. I second that about the book it is really useful. The EQ5 will get images of DSO what a beginner would be proud of but it wont be no Hubble or the quality of some photos on here but you can expect to be proud of them for sure. Also without auto-guiding we are limited on how long exposues we can acheive, maybe 30sec max. The EQ5 is a "fragile" as I say, I noticed how much it shakes when observing so I dread to think what the effects it has on photography. I would also recommend hooking your camera to remote shoot as this is helpful for focussing through live view. You can use your free software that comes with your camera or there is very good programs out there like Backyard EOS but at a price.

Dont be put off about the EQ5 though because when you photograph your first DSO you will be buzzin'!

Rob.

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I find it easier to control the camera from a laptop using the software that comes with the 1100d.

Using the timer function on the camera or thru the laptop means you're not touching the camera to operate the shutter.

Althought the eq5 might be a bit wobbly with the scope on but I find it's great with just the camera and stock lens for widefield and I have a 300mm zoom as well.

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I second tbird's recommendation of Steve Richards' "Making Every Photon Count" as an excellent guide on what kit you need to help you take good consistent images that will meet your expectations. The EQ5 mount is a capable mount for the purposes of observing but the motors in my view are not accurate enough to allow for sufficiently long tracking of DSO's, especially when loaded with a 200P and a DSLR on board. I'm not suggesting that you won't be able to create an image but if you after the quality of image that is often seen in the imaging sections then I'm afraid you will need at least the minimum of a HEQ5. It's 'auto guiding' facility makes such a difference to its tracking accuracy along with its polar scope which helps secure accurate polar alignment, a prerequisite for any successful imaging session. Using a webcam for imaging solar system objects (planets and moon) is well within the capabilities of your setup but imaging DSO's is another ball game entirely. :smiley:

James

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Ive had the eq5 and 200p combo and imaging with it in my opinion would be very difficult, the reason being that the mount is at its limit and the slightest wind makes it wobble like a jelly! The heq5 is a far better mount but even that may struggle with the 200p on all but the calmest nights. Its not just the weight, but also length and that it catches the wind easily. That said, i know people do image with the 200p on lesser mounts than the heq5 but this is an art in itself! Perhaps talk to Quartermass for advice?

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Took a few pictures might help point you in the right direction, so first up is the focus tube this is what it should look like for Prime Focus.....

DSC_9462.jpg

Then there 's the Camera 1100D in this case...with the Cannon Adapter and nearest the T-Ring....

DSC_9464.jpg

Then put the Adapter in the camera, then the T-Ring in the Adaptor,,,,,,

DSC_9465.jpg

And finally put the Camera in the Focus Tube, this is about the focal point for this scope (250P DS)

DSC_9466.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

i conected my canon 40D to my skywatcher 130 and it just wont focus at all, bit gutted as i bought a 40mm photo eyepiece and t ring to fit my camera and that dont focus as awell

camera is fine as i use it

not sure what to do next

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is the eq5 a motorised mount?

Not always. The basic EQ5 isn't, whereas the EQ5 Pro is (and also has SynScan goto). The basic mount can have motors added or even a SynScan upgrade

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

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I've done a bit of a-focal AP on the Moon with my webcam and an EP projection unit. Here's a few in my p'bucket album:-

http://s1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/BazPearce/Moon/Afocal%20testing%2015-01-12/

Yes, you do keep the lens in for it. But as you can see they don't turn out very well even for the ease of a Lunar target. So i'd deffo go with prime focus, especially for dim targets like DSOs. These are my prime focus efforts:-

http://s1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/BazPearce/Moon/

Much better images all round.

Something else to mention also, is that you may want to image wider field targets soon as well. If you do you'll need to buy small refractor like i did. So you can still get a nice full Moon or Sun (properly filtered of course) without resorting to shoving more glass in the light path with eyepieces which just costs you more light, resulting in having to "force" the image and losing quality.

Baz.

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Just found this thread as i am just starting out on AP.

But i was told that i needed the parts in my piccy to do AP.

One part is the T ring/adapter for my Nikon DSLR the other an extension tube.

But looking at Tinkers post it seems i don't need the extension tube.is that correct??

Haven't had a chance to try it out yet due to you know what!!!!!

post-23363-0-89821900-1350643029_thumb.j

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You should have a CD with Canon software on. Install the software then connect camera to notebook with usb cable. You can then use EOS Utilities to control the camera.

Also, take a look at BackyardEOS - it's an excellent piece of software for controlling your 1100d

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

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